68 FJ40 converting to dual circuit MC

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Hello, I know old thread! Which wilwood kit are you referring to? I checked their site and done see anything. Thanks!
Sorry for not answering right away.
Been off line for a while.
It's a long story and will come out in paperback this fall.
I bought the MC through Manna free.
The booster through Summit.
Made the drums feel strong for about a week before I got the disk kit from Manna free.
The Cruiser is a 1970 FJ40.
 
(Thread revival Jubilee!)

AKA: Ugh.... Where the F does time go ?

Bought this FJ40 seven years ago and started on converting the single-circuit Brake Master to a dual, parts purchased from Mark's Off Road, as well as a rebuilt steering box from Mark, then shizzle happens and I threw some tarps over it and WHAM! seven years later....

So the Cruiser Gawds gave me a dream the other night that I needed to see what's under those ratty tarps, so I pulled everything off and cleared out the dead opossum carcass from underneath, and got out the leaf blower and cleaned all the Black Widows and leaves and Morning Glory vines.

*** The reason for this thread bump: Anyone have additional pictures of where and how they ran the new dual brake lines? Also, I see these's a MAF dual-master kit that contains Residual Pressure Valves for each circuit. Are these necessary ? What is the function? LINK

Thanks !


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residual valves are a check valve to keep the brake shoes applying a small amount of pressure against the drum. on a drum brake 40 they are built into the master cylinder. I would use a master from 70-74 if you are going to stick with the front drums.
 
Mark, if you see this, I have a ?, do the late 70' production dual circuit brake MC's have the three bolt pattern ? Mine had 4 wheel drum with a dual circuit MC and booster , trying to determine if it came in late 70' that way or someone changed stuff around.
 
residual valves are a check valve to keep the brake shoes applying a small amount of pressure against the drum. on a drum brake 40 they are built into the master cylinder. I would use a master from 70-74 if you are going to stick with the front drums.

I am staying with front drums. MC is from Mark A. It's what he uses...
 
I did this conversion recently on my '69 and I never came across a kit that included everything. I got an early 70's dual res MC from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and an adapter from JT Outfitters. I found a fellow mudder who was parting out a '69 and got some extra 9mm fittings and splitters.

Here's the old and new MC and adapter.

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I needed to make new lines from the MC to rear splitter and from front splitter on ds to splitter on ps front.

I replaced the 3-way splitter on ps front with a 2 way and eliminated the old line connecting front circuit to rear.

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I made a new line from rear circuit on MC to rear splitter on ps.

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Here's the 2-way that replaced 3-way ps front, which isolates front circuit.

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I only had to replace the 9mm to MC with 2 10mm.

The 9mm fittings are hard to find and poorly designed, as they tend to spread at the flare fitting end if over tightened making them difficult to remove or reuse.

Here's a comparison pic showing a good 10mm (top left) and bad 9mm (top right).
Good 9mm (bottom left) and bad 9mm (bottom right).

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Resurrection time ... which oil filter did you have on that truck? I have the big canister style off the intake manifold and I'm not sure that MC would fit. Also, where did you find those 10mm junctions? I'm having no luck finding anything that looks that nice.

@Spike Strip Do you have a thread going for your 40?
 
@Spike Strip Do you have a thread going for your 40?

Yes, but I'm REALLY bad at documenting :redface: And since that 40 is under a leaky car canopy, and as Winter and the rain has shown up, she's covered back up and will have to wait until Spring...

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Resurrection time ... which oil filter did you have on that truck? I have the big canister style off the intake manifold and I'm not sure that MC would fit. Also, where did you find those 10mm junctions? I'm having no luck finding anything that looks that nice.
Big oil filter off manifold but it points down out of the way. The only clearance issue I had with the dual master is with the choke breaker on carb. Mark A @65swb45 said his adapter addresses this, so I would get his.

The junctions are 9mm. Everything on mine is still 9mm other than the connections to the MC.
 
Big oil filter off manifold but it points down out of the way. The only clearance issue I had with the dual master is with the choke breaker on carb. Mark A @65swb45 said his adapter addresses this, so I would get his.

The junctions are 9mm. Everything on mine is still 9mm other than the connections to the MC.
Are you saying the MC or the filter housing points down and out of the way? Is that a modification? I wonder if a revised adapter could offset the MC towards the firewall rib just enough to buy a few more mm of clearance with the cab and oil filter.

Looking at the amount of rust on all my hard brake lines and junctions, I don’t think a single one of them are going to come apart. I think the path of least resistance is going to be nuking the entire brake system and starting from scratch. That’s not a bad thing as far as reliability and safety goes, too. I guess I’ve heard the 9mm stuff is hard to find so I’m thinking of moving to 10mm except at the cylinders in the drums.
 
Are you saying the MC or the filter housing points down and out of the way? Is that a modification? I wonder if a revised adapter could offset the MC towards the firewall rib just enough to buy a few more mm of clearance with the cab and oil filter.

Looking at the amount of rust on all my hard brake lines and junctions, I don’t think a single one of them are going to come apart. I think the path of least resistance is going to be nuking the entire brake system and starting from scratch. That’s not a bad thing as far as reliability and safety goes, too. I guess I’ve heard the 9mm stuff is hard to find so I’m thinking of moving to 10mm except at the cylinders in the drums.
Jim the oil filter or oil filter mount points at a 8 0'clock position off that manifold. My 71 was like that. but since installing a 2f it eliminated that spot.
 
Jim the oil filter or oil filter mount points at a 8 0'clock position off that manifold. My 71 was like that. but since installing a 2f it eliminated that spot.
Same here. Just took a pic. Looks like I used a small toyota filter for most recent oil change

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Same here. Just took a pic. Looks like I used a small toyota filter for most recent oil change

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Ah, different thing. I don't know all the 40 lingo yet so I'm not sure the proper name for what I've got. Here's a photo I stole off the internet showing the type of oil filter I have. It's a big housing with removable media.

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Not sure why the truck shown has the older style oil filter setup AND an emissions air rail. All signs I'm seeing point to an early truck (single circuit brake master, side reflectors, firewall rib, air cleaner, elephant horns, etc), so the air rail seems out of place. Again I'm new at 40 stuff so maybe there were some years where all those things overlapped. In any case, that's the kind of oil filter I have.

I guess I could switch to the type of filter bracket you have, but the older filter housing is so cool and I'd rather not lose it.
 
Photo of my truck:

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It’s tight.

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That dumb Rochester carb will be going away, I have a proper rebuilt late-69 carb ready to go when I get around to the engine bay work.
 
Is the lower oil line a hard pipe where you can’t just add a 1/4” spacer between the 4 hole mounting plate and the intake manifold to get a little more room?
 
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Is the lower oil line a hard pipe where you can’t just add a 1/4” spacer between the 4 hole mounting plate and the intake manifold to get a little more room?
Great idea. I'm new to the 40 world and figuring this out as I go, so I don't recall if it's a hose or hard line. If it's a hard line it can probably be changed to a hose with some ingenuity. I can draw up a spacer plate in CAD and have it made as well - probably easier and more elegant than fiddling with individual spacers on each bolt.
 
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