I went this same route, I'm very pleased with the service and the product. I did have to hack the old arms off the ball studs, I could not seem to get them to move and I was afraid they would break.
60's Hydraulic Arm For Rear Hatch
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I went this same route, I'm very pleased with the service and the product. I did have to hack the old arms off the ball studs, I could not seem to get them to move and I was afraid they would break.
Lift Supports Depot also sells this kit on eBay under the seller name mrlousstuff.
Buy it Now price was $39 + 6.90 S&H = $45.90, so saved a couple bucks over the company website, which would've been $52.13 shipped. The LSD struts are Stabilus Lift-O-Mat #SG329006.
Mine had a worn set of Suspa C16-23322 struts (i compressed one by hand and it didn't extend back out) that already had the nylon socket ends, so I only needed a small flat-tip screwdriver for the install.
A little tip for those that have never used these socket types before: you only need to pry the metal clip up enough for the ball to slip inside. If you pull the clip off, it's a bit of a pain to get it back on.
Buy it Now price was $39 + 6.90 S&H = $45.90, so saved a couple bucks over the company website, which would've been $52.13 shipped. The LSD struts are Stabilus Lift-O-Mat #SG329006.
Mine had a worn set of Suspa C16-23322 struts (i compressed one by hand and it didn't extend back out) that already had the nylon socket ends, so I only needed a small flat-tip screwdriver for the install.
A little tip for those that have never used these socket types before: you only need to pry the metal clip up enough for the ball to slip inside. If you pull the clip off, it's a bit of a pain to get it back on.
cheapest fix
a short peice of pvc pipe placed on the shock fixed my rx-7 strut and I think thats gonna fix my cruiser struts too. cut pipe so it is slightly shorter than the telescope, use pipe that barely fits over the reciever tube, copper may work better. only need to do one side. Push the pipe out of the way to close hatch. I am a cheap sob
MLM
a short peice of pvc pipe placed on the shock fixed my rx-7 strut and I think thats gonna fix my cruiser struts too. cut pipe so it is slightly shorter than the telescope, use pipe that barely fits over the reciever tube, copper may work better. only need to do one side. Push the pipe out of the way to close hatch. I am a cheap sob
MLM
So I got some lifts from Reid Supply(the ones recommended in this thread) and man--why the heck haven't I done that already! Opens and closes perfectly! One thing though, I noticed that I can grab the strut and it'll just pop off the ball with little effort; is this normal? The old ones wouldn't come out no matter how hard you pulled. I've opened and closed it probably 50 times now with no trouble, but the idea of knocking it off while loading or unloading something and having it drop on my head is not so appealing
Did you install the curly-q clip thingy?
I forgot on the first side but I did on the second. Didn't seem to make a difference, although I honestly have no clue what they do and may have put them on wrong. They showed up already on the stud so I just installed just like it came. Is that where I screwed up?
Ticked off!
I got a set of used from a supplier who will go un-named, and they're no better than the ones I removed; leaves the hatch about 1/2 way, or just under my head...I'm 6' tall. Guess i wasted THAT $50!
I've learned my lesson about used parts.
I got a set of used from a supplier who will go un-named, and they're no better than the ones I removed; leaves the hatch about 1/2 way, or just under my head...I'm 6' tall. Guess i wasted THAT $50!
I've learned my lesson about used parts.
Insert the ball into the cupped end, then slide the straight part of the clip through the two holes in the cupped end. Then rotate the clip till curved part snaps onto the shaft.
I can get a picture if it will help you. I just replace mine this weekend with parts from reid supply. Mine do not slip out at all.
Having a similar problem replacing the springs on the liftgate of my 60 - ordered the two replacement springs from Reid (item GAS-124) as well as the screw in studs (item GAS-30).
Anyone know what the thread count/pitch is on the OEM studs? To my untrained eye, the thread pitch looks different; I'm already fearful of buggering the threads up in the liftgate, but not certain.
Is there a way to leave the studs in place and snap the OEM hydraulic spring out? I don't see any release, etc.
Nothing's ever easy!
Anyone know what the thread count/pitch is on the OEM studs? To my untrained eye, the thread pitch looks different; I'm already fearful of buggering the threads up in the liftgate, but not certain.
Is there a way to leave the studs in place and snap the OEM hydraulic spring out? I don't see any release, etc.
Nothing's ever easy!
Ah ha--that makes perfect sense. Didn't notice the holes. Thanks-no need for a pic.
Srogers someone said earlier that the threads were the same but I don't think they are, at least mine weren't. They are real close so I went ahead and installed them and they seem to be in there pretty good.
Srogers someone said earlier that the threads were the same but I don't think they are, at least mine weren't. They are real close so I went ahead and installed them and they seem to be in there pretty good.
Thanks tclark - it doesn't appear that they are, but I wasn't sure if there was another thread pitch or count that someone was aware of.
I tell you what, the studs in mine ARE IN THERE. I've sprayed them with pb blaster and let them sit for several days to no avail, looks like blue threadlocker on the one of the four that I've managed to get out!
I tell you what, the studs in mine ARE IN THERE. I've sprayed them with pb blaster and let them sit for several days to no avail, looks like blue threadlocker on the one of the four that I've managed to get out!
Pulled mine recently..make sure you have a nice 12mm wrench to work with(in the tool kit). Blue thread locker was defintely on there.
Yup, blue threadlocker on mine as well. They all gots red now---hope I don't need to remove them soon!
Just purchased a set on Ebay. Saved 2 bucks vs buying from his website. I'm cheap 2 bucks is 2 bucks.
Just did the Ebay buy as well. Hit my head on the lift gate last weekend which prompted me to replace the worn out supports.
Update on the McMaster Carr option. Part number is now...4138T559 Price $28.5o for the pair delivered.
I second the McMaster Carr option. I have had them on over a year now and still working great in the cold even. I ordered the 4138T569 the first go-around and it was too long and the lift gate hit the rain gutter. The 4138T559 winds up being a little lower than the stock, so if you don't have any lift at all on your rig, you might bump your head a time or two before you get used to it.
To reiterate what was mentioned above, I ordered this exact part number (90lb) from McMaster-Carr on 6/6/11 for $35 shipped and just replaced my worn out struts on my 1990 FJ62 landcruiser in under 10 minutes. My lift gate flies up now...
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I just replaced mine today from McMaster-CARR. They are just a bit shorter than stock, but it worked out great. I copied the details from the order form.
2 Each 4138T559
Gas Spring with Ball-Joint End Fitting 90 lb Force, 15.24" Extended Length, 5.47" Stroke (Same as 4138T55)
$28.50
2 Each 4138T559
Gas Spring with Ball-Joint End Fitting 90 lb Force, 15.24" Extended Length, 5.47" Stroke (Same as 4138T55)
$28.50
Having a similar problem replacing the springs on the liftgate of my 60 - ordered the two replacement springs from Reid (item GAS-124) as well as the screw in studs (item GAS-30).
Anyone know what the thread count/pitch is on the OEM studs? To my untrained eye, the thread pitch looks different; I'm already fearful of buggering the threads up in the liftgate, but not certain.
Is there a way to leave the studs in place and snap the OEM hydraulic spring out? I don't see any release, etc.
Nothing's ever easy!
When in doubt, lay the two together, side by side, one pointing the opposite direction from the other. If they are the same pitch, the threads will mesh cleanly.
