60 series....Tech and Classifieds

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For what it's worth... If I was going to spend 4 large an rebuilding a 2F I would have to think very seriously about some kind of EFI system. What is the one thing that has changed our expectations about how long a motor should last? Remember when nothing went much past 100k miles and was still worth a crap? Fuel management was a paradigm shift in engine longevity and reliability. Yes, a little more complicated but how many people do you know who can still properly tune a carb much less rebuild one. Even if performance gains were nil it seems like a good investment to me. Just my $.02
 
Even though my 60 is a late 85 and much easier h55 instsall , the cost and overall practical usage is what drove me to buying the 100. Other than running the freeway the 4 spd and 4.10's on 33's seem to be about perfect to me.
 
My $0.02...

If you don't plan on driving over 65 much, I'd rebuild the engine, put on the AFI, keep the 4 speed & 33s and toss in some 4.11s.

You'll have a fast and powerful (relatively speaking), yet stock feeling truck. It will start very easily in any temperature, adjust to any elevation, have a smoother power delivery in the low & mid-range, and idle down the trail with force since the FI pours on fuel if the RPMs drop.

The H55 is really only good for going 1) a little bit slower when going slow, and 2)keeping the RPMs down if you like to drive 65+ for hours on end. It doesn't sound like you'll be doing much of either. 3) Bragging rights over people that don't have one.

4.11s/33s/manual transmission really are the sweet spot in the 60. Plus the speedo will be dead-on. Trying to drop the RPMs just because you can doesn't really gain you any mpgs, but does lose a noticeable amount of power. Plus, with the better internal balancing from a quality rebuild, you'll notice that there is no magic wall of death if you push the engine over 2500 rpms. 3K is no bid deal, it can do that all day. It will also keep making power up to and past redline, where the stock motor seems to drop off.
 
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I'd also have the head rebuilt in the manner that JC specs his. I don't really know what I'm talking about, but I think he uses some bigger, stainless Chevy valves that don't burn up.
 
I'd love to drive one and feel the power curve on the road in a vehicle not set up for crawling.

Anyone have it?

If not I'm going to send a Toyota dizzy out to get recurved and keep this new City Racer carb

The power curve doesn't change except for the fact that there is no 2nd barrel turbo boost at 2K. It is available from 0 rpm. If everything is properly tuned carb-wise, you don't noticeably gain any mpgs or power.

It is a helluva lot more refined though.
 
On the H55 question... I have roughly 5g in parts alone for my H55 and rebuilt split case with the AA 4:1 gears. George did a great job building this combo for me and o love it. But, I am a fool. I am never going to crawl this truck and the little bit of overdrive from the H55 is not worth 5g. Put that same combo in an FJ40 that you want to crawl and its magic. As you are doing, consider what you are going to do with the truck and make the right decision based on that.
 
Those who part the waters have spoken. Among the three, we have two incredibly solid votes for fuel injection, 4 speed gear box, 4.11's, and 33's.

Done.

What dizzy you run?
 
Does AFI have a distributor that they sell as part of the system?

Bossman. I agree on carbs. None of my trucks that have them acts the same.

I am not clear on that part. On the site, it looks like they sell a converted Toyota dizzy.

Mine (that I bought used) came with a DUI that was converted to electronic by DUI.

As much as I like Toyota stuff, I feel like the DUI might play better with the Chevy fuel system. I'm really just speculating though.

It never gave me any trouble, even in a few deep water crossings, which was what I was the most concerned about.
 
I "feel" like a Chevy computer talking to a Chevy dizzy will work better than Chevy to Toyota. And like to keep entire systems together where possible. So I guess I vote converted DUI, with the full knowledge that the Toyota dizzy is probably higher quality somehow.
 
Separate question, and I'm not being critical here, just curious as I've gone through this entire thought process myself...multiple times:

If you're going to spend upwards of $4k on a complete rebuild, why not just ship the long block to powderpig, get beno to ship him all the new parts directly, and let an F series wizard do the job?
 
First off, cost. $4000 is the high end here and the low end using OEM stuff and shipping.

Also I did my homework on Jackson Cyl Head and he's as good as they get, honest and local.
 
And he goes to Pine Lake! ;-)
 
And he goes to Pine Lake! ;)
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