60 series....Tech and Classifieds (2 Viewers)

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This was a new one for me. Had the idler shaft back out of the t-case.

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The bolt for the retaining tab snapped :frown:. How did that happen??

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I've run into a problem with the heater core swap. Right now it appears the o-rings I was given are wrong. See pic showing new o ring on the left vs old o ring on the right. I've had the new aftermarket heater core and o rings for some time. While its been a while I believe the o rings came from toyota but looking at things now where I have access to the parts in question, it obvious they are not correct.

The new o ring is both larger and thicker than the old which is a no-go in my view on this.
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Those o-rings are tricky to find, too thick and the clamps won’t go on, too thin and it leaks. If I remember correctly the metric o ring kit from Harbor Freight had the few I was hunting.
 
Those o-rings are tricky to find, too thick and the clamps won’t go on, too thin and it leaks. If I remember correctly the metric o ring kit from Harbor Freight had the few I was hunting.

Thanks, Yeah I was going to hunt down some metric o ring kits to see if they had something close. Appears the aftermarket heater core may not be available anymore. Yesterday before I noticed the o ring issue, I also noticed that the OEM heater pipes sure are tight fit into the aftermarket heater core...and really tight. Was so bad I decided I did not want to try and mate them unti I was ready to go and hopefully one time deal. The unicorn parts make coming up with solutions if something breaks...a problem. Test fit with the old OEM heater core shows a tight fit, but where the heater core tubes do in fact work without issue. I may see if I can get the old heater core repaired at the radiator shop (but thats a long shot and only if I have no other choice), that art of radiator type repair is going away given all the plastic stuff in the market and cheap swaps on many things.
 
I haven’t had any luck with the aftermarket heater core. They are made out of aluminum instead of brass and the ends are not flared correctly for the clamp to hold the joint tight. Also as you’ve noticed takes a whole lot more force to get brass pipes in the aftermarket core. I didn’t want to risk tearing up the brass tubes so I sent the aluminum core back and had the original repaired.
 
thanks for the feedback, I did not know abut the fit issue, I'll look closer on the aftermarket heater core I have to see if its even a workable solution, I had just given it a casual visual once over kind of thing. Seems crazy to have this type of fit issues...but I know from experience that some of the aftermarket stuff is crap. This was my only choice at the time. This might drive what others have done....have the pipes soldered to the heater core. I don't like that approach but I can see why someone might do that. My experience with heater cores has mainly been in the GM brands (years ago)....where the heater core and its related pipes that go through the firewall are all one assembly. I'm not even sure the heater pipes will mate with the heater core....I was going to lube them with some di-electric grease and go from there....but I stopped. I did a dry fit with the old heater core and the pipes...everything was fine and I understand its a close fit in general as it should be by the design....the aftermarket heater core may be a paper-weight for the garbage can.
 
Got Dustin’s pile topped off with a nice 4x4
labs rear bumper

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That 4x4 labs bumper was a true team effort. @Bomar picked it up for me, took it to @FJ60Cam, who delivered it to @wngrog. Then @wngrog helped me install it! Looks great, thanks for all the effort fellas! Also, somebody buy my roof rack. Ready to run a front runner and need it gone. $750 now, Alloy-- not steel.


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Put a nice clean freshly gone through non-leaking gear box in my 60 today! Need to get some miles on it, but feels better.

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