47 Gallon Long Ranger Aux Tank installation USA 200 series...

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Yes, It does all ad up. For me the huge change was the Hannibal rack plus side and rear awnings. It must be the trailing air stream that also has a lot to do with the drag.
Speed matters a lot too. Above 70 mph and my mpg drops a lot. Sustain 80mph and it will hit 13 no problem.

I swear though that if you drive the LC more gently, it could do better. My LC new car test drives have shown 20 mpg on a highway out and back at 60-65-70 mph on the computer with E10.

I have a baja rack on now...might have to look at the hannibal. Any idea how tall the rack is from the oem roof to the top of the rack? I need to be able to still fit in my garage.... 6'11 is the HIGHEST I can get :)

About driving her better..... I call her 'The Falcon'.......drive her just like Solo drives the Falcon.....like she was built to be driven :)
 
what do you use the rack for? I mainly used mine for the awnings and rtt but also liked it for a photography tripod platform or just easy extra height doing snapshots on trips. I realized I could put grip tape along roof edge and rear hatch for standing but my ladder makes it really easy too. with a kaymar and tire carrier, you can use the tire as a step.

Any rack where the slats run front to rear are better than side to side or tubular like my old safari rack on the disco. I don't know why I am getting off so much on better fuel economy but it may have something to do with my 30,000 miles per year of driving and it seeming like just tossing away $ to get bad mpg
 
what do you use the rack for? I mainly used mine for the awnings and rtt but also liked it for a photography tripod platform or just easy extra height doing snapshots on trips. I realized I could put grip tape along roof edge and rear hatch for standing but my ladder makes it really easy too. with a kaymar and tire carrier, you can use the tire as a step.

Any rack where the slats run front to rear are better than side to side or tubular like my old safari rack on the disco. I don't know why I am getting off so much on better fuel economy but it may have something to do with my 30,000 miles per year of driving and it seeming like just tossing away $ to get bad mpg

Use mine for carrying stuff. That basic.

Who makes the ladder for your roof rack?
 
the lr ladder is basic factory kit stuff. well made and simple install. I've thought a good fabricator could make a sweet aluminum ladder for the LC.
 
I use regular 87 octane as I never saw in increase in the premium. I don't have a clue where I would get 'pure gas' or even what that really means, but you have peaked my interest.

The Nitto's are gone...using Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac now.

and about my driving.....not going to reveal alot...but I will say that your 80 is close :) and for my protection....I have a PASSPORT 9500ci installed also with a much better last system front and rear then that crappy one that comes with the ci :) They like laser out here :)

the octane isn't the issue, the Ethanol reduces your mpg because it has less energy per volume. It's not so good for other reasons such as binding with water so leaving a jerry can sitting around or like in your extra tank. On a motorcycle it can cause the delicate system to clog up. Anyway, pure gas gives me 10% more miles which was my main reason besides the other reasons.

Tires: not sure how ours compare but I did like the DT when I had them on. The lr3 is very limiting though on tire size for clearance reasons.

What's this about other laser shifters??????? My standard ci versions have done well but sometimes the rear one goes off from sun beam or whatever when there is obviously no speed gun being used.
If you are using the ci, then you are driving too fast for decent mpg ;)
 
oh, I meant to ad that I use the "pure gas" app which is available for iphone and android, maybe others. it's pretty useful.
 
Here is the dual filler half way put together...

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And completed and installed....

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With 5-6 hoses coming off there...it tight and looks like a mess....but best we could do....

Next is to complete the tank install tomorrow, and test the whole system out.

Then Friday down to the muffler shop to get the exhaust rerouted a bit. That should only cost about $100 or less he said.

I don't want to drive it at all if I can help it with that hot exhaust leaning on the tank. It only does this because I have a custom exhaust. The OEM exhaust would not have this issue I believe.
 
Ok all done...I just got home from a family trip so I let him keep it and work on it at his own pace. Works great. There are so quirks in the install and in the application, but overall, awesome.

Will post details of the rest of the install tomorrow.
 
Do you have it setup to automatically transfer fuel or do you do it manually with a button?

I am very interested in one of the aux tanks for my LX. Also, since the LX has AHC, the extra weight won't affect ride height.
 
Do you have it setup to automatically transfer fuel or do you do it manually with a button?

I am very interested in one of the aux tanks for my LX. Also, since the LX has AHC, the extra weight won't affect ride height.

No, there is not a way for an autotransfer.

Basically it is a simple manual setup.

I wait till I see if I am at a half a tank (or whatever) on my main tank. Then I push the button on the digital switch / gauge and see the red light turn on. You can also hear the pump going. It is a slow transfer. Seems to go about 5 gallon per 10 min...so 1/2 gallon a min.

When I notice the main fuel gauge get full, I shut off the pump. Easy.

If I let it go till it was totally full, the pump would get VERY loud, therefore indicating nothing was going through the pump. I prefer not to do that.

When I filled up the aux tank it took 46.5 gallons at a cost of about $170-$180.

The main tank of 19 gallons cost me about $80-$90.

Now is it costing me MORE to fill her up? Nope.I just fill up now once every 3-4 weeks instead of once ever 3-4 days. So far my gas millage doesn't seem to be affected.

Now, I do SUGGEST new brakes, especially Bjowett's big brake upgrade. You are carrying around 400-500 extra pounds (when filled plus the cost of weight of the blank tank).

I have driven fast around corners and don't notice and sloshing or anything. As well I shouldn't, as the tank has baffles etc.

There were issues with the install.

It seems there are some major differences in the AUS and USA LC models.

The pipes need to be reduced and that is a PITA as there are not any direct reducers and had to be made. Out of the 4 days for the install, we spent almost 2 days finding the right fittings and making the correction reducers.

The carbon canister, ALL HOSES, and ANYTHING above in the spare tire area needs to be clear of any wires or hoses. There is virtually NO ROOM above the tank after it is fitted.

It is VERY close to the trailer hitch wire harness also.

We did a rhino lining on the tank before we installed it. Help protect it and you cannot see it at all. It blends in perfectly.

Now mounting it....they have it setup for 2 bolts in the front, 3 on each side.

Now this has to be another difference between the US and AUS models. The holes in the frame must be different. Only 2 of the three holes on each side matched up. Now they are not threaded holes in the frame. So they have an adapter to slide into the frame that has nuts welded to it. The first holes lined up..the second ones did not. So we had to drill them. Also we had to dril from the other side so we could affix the nut.

The third hole would not work at all as it would end up being drilled to the curved edge of the frame, which we would not do. Also they gave us grade 5 bolts VS grade 8...so since we were only using 2 per side VS 3...we upgraded to grade 8 (which we would have done anyway) 6 grade 8 bolts (2 per side and 2 in front) are more then enough to hold 500 pounds.

Now I had a custom exhaust on it already..so it had to be re-routed around the tank. Once the tank was installed it was hitting it, which is not good.

Do I suggest it....sure why not....but don't expect it to be a direct bolt in without any issues for the US models. It is not hard..just time consuming.

When it comes up to the Lexus mode with the AHC....I don't know if it's a good or bad idea...I don't have a clue what it looks like above and around the spare tire area. I don't know if the AHC has any stuff around there that would get in the way and could not be re-routed.
 
I installed a timer relay just to make sure I don't accidentally leave the transfer pump on. I can easily get distracted and forget that I'm transferring fuel and the sound of the pump....at least on my truck.....gets drowned out by road noise.
 
Loving this install thread.

On my drive from TX to CA and back, I noticed that my mileage was 2-3 mpg better in NM/AZ when I ran their 88 octane midgrade. Very interesting...wonder if it was due to a lack of ethanol. We have a lot of E10 out here in TX.
 
Loving this install thread.

On my drive from TX to CA and back, I noticed that my mileage was 2-3 mpg better in NM/AZ when I ran their 88 octane midgrade. Very interesting...wonder if it was due to a lack of ethanol. We have a lot of E10 out here in TX.

I think for my next fill up with the aux tank, I am going to try pure gas no ethanol. There is a station 30 miles from my house.

I have more pics of the install. WIll post them later today.
 
Funny you mentioned the roof mounted items. I took off my (4) 4" HID lights on top seeing if that would help, and it hasn't.

I have looked at almost everything. I honestly think it is a combination of roof stuff, tire size, weight, new headers, etc.... If you take off a bit for each, it adds up. Honestly the MOST I ever got out here in the CA desert area is 15 on the freeway consistently.

I DO know when I travel to AZ etc...I get better gas mileage. I also think it is the gas that we get out here.

It's all driving style. I rarely get 15mpg even on highway, but I'm also going 80 and accelerating a lot. If you drive for mpgs you can certainly do better than 15mpg. In the end I avg around 12.5mpg city/highway mix.
 
No, there is not a way for an autotransfer.

Do I suggest it....sure why not....but don't expect it to be a direct bolt in without any issues for the US models. It is not hard..just time consuming.

Great write up, thanks. Question: Do you think going with the 70L (18.5 gallon) tank would have been at all easier? Might the carbon canister be able to stay where it is, since there would be some room left above the spare?
 
Great write up, thanks. Question: Do you think going with the 70L (18.5 gallon) tank would have been at all easier? Might the carbon canister be able to stay where it is, since there would be some room left above the spare?

From their photos it look equally as snug against the bottom of the body. I'm hoping to be proven wrong :D
 
There is a Utah local fab guru that has built many tanks (including @dmc 's 100 tank) and he said he'd entertain a tank build for my 200. I'd prefer a pass through tank like the FR 100 option but with the emissions/tank pressure systems I think it's a dream. So, transfer it is.
 
There is a Utah local fab guru that has built many tanks (including @dmc 's 100 tank) and he said he'd entertain a tank build for my 200. I'd prefer a pass through tank like the FR 100 option but with the emissions/tank pressure systems I think it's a dream. So, transfer it is.

Once again... (like the rear switch)... If the two of you could put together a means of re-creating whatever he does to your rig? They'd sell like hot-cakes (or people would be making trips to Utah to have it done). Like the rear hatch thing...the tank size on these beasts is a very real deficiency for such a gas guzzler...
 
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