40 series general tech and classifieds (1 Viewer)

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Booster appears to be fine, not sure how to test it.

Master is a dual circuit, guessing oe(ish) for a 78 2F 40.

Proportioning valve: yes it has one, as far as what kind, not 100% sure. I'll have to have a look.

Perhaps the rears are over-riding the fronts? But even if that was so, i would think that sitting still with the peddle mashed, it wouldnt matter, would it? Shouldn't everything be locked down under that scenario? Never dealt with a rear disc convo, so dont know much about how to judge whats happening.
 
Your master and prop valve are designed to send more juice to the rear because you are supposed to have drums that take more juice to operate.

So

You need a City Racer proportion valve to dial out the pressure to the rear.
 
Dual circuit master

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Looks like I already have a prop valavr in-line. Looks just like the one on city racer's site

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Do they go bad? Perhaps I need a new one, or maybe I need an adjustable one for the rear discs since that prop valve would have been for rear drums.

Any recommendations?
 
Looks like thats no longer an option.

Screenshot_2019-09-29-18-56-03.png
 
You might want to take care of this while you’re in there.
9CA5D5CA-3C6A-4EF8-861D-C4C5DD8A3BEB.jpeg
 
You might want to take care of this while you’re in there. View attachment 2095160

Ok, I'm gonna plead ignorance as I thought it was just a union. No idea why it would be there (as has been the case with a number of things, example the t-case e-brake works great but I found a line lock in the rear circuit...) but didnt realize that it was something that needed attention.
 
It’s a common way people fix brake lines. Instead of doing it right and bending up a full new line they hack up the OEM line and add those junctions to mate them. It’s often a source of a leak.
 
Gotcha, well I need to give @Rainman a buzz about some other lines, so I will just see about getting the correct replacement while I'm at it.
 
Ok, I'm gonna plead ignorance as I thought it was just a union. No idea why it would be there (as has been the case with a number of things, example the t-case e-brake works great but I found a line lock in the rear circuit...) but didnt realize that it was something that needed attention.

That is a compression union and is not capable of holding up to the pressure of brake hydraulics. A union with a double flare on both ends will be fine but squeezing a brass olive around a steel line is asking for trouble. Works great for fuel not so much for brakes.
 
Just put a non ABS 80 series Master Cyl. on it. Swapped to disc on my buggy from drums and put a 4 runner M/C on it and it works great. Either the non ABS 4 runner or 80 series should work. It's the 1" bore M/C.
 
I think this is the one I bought from Rock Auto

MC.PNG
 
Just put a non ABS 80 series Master Cyl. on it. Swapped to disc on my buggy from drums and put a 4 runner M/C on it and it works great. Either the non ABS 4 runner or 80 series should work. It's the 1" bore M/C.
This is ideal for front disc and rear drum setup on a 40?
 
You should
This is ideal for front disc and rear drum setup on a 40?

It’s the same one I run on my 40 and 55 and they both have disc/drum

I’m not 100 sure it’s the best for my application versus a master designed for rear drums but the brakes on both are good.

My biggest gains came each time I installed a new City Racer booster.
 
Red sent me this from Madison today. Looks like Lenny got a forty

View attachment 2098332

I’ve seen that one up close, it is actually a pretty decent 40 that has some mods that are visually wrong. She should have gotten a pic of the matching diamond plate front bumper.
 
I’ve seen that one up close, it is actually a pretty decent 40 that has some mods that are visually wrong. She should have gotten a pic of the matching diamond plate front bumper.

Her pic was grainy of the front. Can’t tell on the diamond plate

1D45F176-D5DC-4F2B-B5D6-1D2B52FD1C5B.jpeg
 

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