Yeah it seems to be some ground problems on the street driving stuff like horn and turn signals. (Chris told me beforehand about some wiring issues). Headlights, brakes, cig lighter, all other stuff work fine, its just the hazards/blinkers and now the horn. This is a new experience for me... usually this stuff works and huge mechanical problems are what Im worrying about. Lee Majors is a Tank.
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Yeah it seems to be some ground problems on the street driving stuff like horn and turn signals. (Chris told me beforehand about some wiring issues). Headlights, brakes, cig lighter, all other stuff work fine, its just the hazards/blinkers and now the horn. This is a new experience for me... usually this stuff works and huge mechanical problems are what Im worrying about. Lee Majors is a Tank.
Ceramic coated headers in. The temperature difference of the hot air on the shins is pretty dramatic with the vent open. Load is a lot smoother. The very back hole for the bolt was stripped but put a longer bolt in it and kinda made it work. 10/10 worth it. Couldn’t fit the cat though. Back to amazon it goes. Glad I got it coated. Hopefully won’t have to worry about it again for a while
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Bryce at Cruiser Outfitters will.
Perfect. Going to assemble the parts for leak proofing and quieting down lee majors so I never have to drop the trans again. Thinking:
Pilot bearing. Really want to try the wonderbread thing
Throwout bearing
Input shaft bearing
Input shaft seal
Clutch kit
Rear main seal
Cam plug?
Oil pan gasket
Parking brake rebuild kit
Theres some kind of oil leak out the back of the motor coming out of the inspection plate for the bellhousing. After reading I think theres only the cam plug and rear main that can leak oil there. Thankfully no gear oil is leaking and trans and T case are perfectly dry. Leaking oil is darker in color, trans fluid is brand new and clear.
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I use the Aisin clutch kit off Amazon.
They come with TO bearing And pilot
I’ve never had to change the input bearing on a H42 transmission. They don’t go bad. Save your money.
Cam plug. That’s a freeze plug. It’s not likely leaking. If you get the bellhousing off and it’s leaking they are generic and can be picked up local.
Keep in mind some of those parking brake kits don’t come with pads. Get new pads.
Make sure you take flywheel to get resurfaced.
None of this is bad.
While the interior is out grab 2 gallons of lizard
Skin and spray the underside of the tub by your feetBand put a heavy coat under the trans hump.
They come with TO bearing And pilot
I’ve never had to change the input bearing on a H42 transmission. They don’t go bad. Save your money.
Cam plug. That’s a freeze plug. It’s not likely leaking. If you get the bellhousing off and it’s leaking they are generic and can be picked up local.
Keep in mind some of those parking brake kits don’t come with pads. Get new pads.
Make sure you take flywheel to get resurfaced.
None of this is bad.
While the interior is out grab 2 gallons of lizard
Skin and spray the underside of the tub by your feetBand put a heavy coat under the trans hump.
The reason I am looking at replacing the input bearing is I am getting roaring noise in neutral and it goes away when the clutch is pushed in or if I put it in gear with the clutch in. As soon as the clutch is let off the noise comes back.
Hopefully the freeze plug isnt leaking, fingers crossed on that one.
Good call on the flywheel, didnt think of that. I thing the Oreileys near me does it. Wonder if its original lol.
Underside of the tub as in the bottom? I was thinking of getting the interior line-xed, but saw that there are two types of lizard skin, one with a ceramic coat and one that is more rubberized. Are you saying spray it on the underbody?
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Your noise sounds to me like a classic throw out nearing death.
Line-X is fine for pickup trucks but if you want heat and noise reduction use Lizard Skin.
Maybe check out my Warthog 4.4 or Patina thread. Both I used Lizard Skin with good results.
Skip the lineX Places like the bed that get heavy use. I cut a rubber horse mat to fit I got from Tractor Suppiy.
Line-X is fine for pickup trucks but if you want heat and noise reduction use Lizard Skin.
Maybe check out my Warthog 4.4 or Patina thread. Both I used Lizard Skin with good results.
Skip the lineX Places like the bed that get heavy use. I cut a rubber horse mat to fit I got from Tractor Suppiy.
Wouldnt throwout make noise when clutch is pushed in? I do get a little gear chatter when putting shifter into gear so youre probably right. I was thinking linex in the tub to look pretty and be able to hose it out better after wheelin, but if lizard skin works inside too, might just go with that. I have had good results with parking on my driveway hill and hosing out the floor and letting the water run out and sucking the rest out with a shop vac. Back to the drawing board I suppose. The linex or sound deadening is a far off project though
Lizard Skin will help the heat issue. Help keep lovely brides toes less hot. You can Lizard skin it and then Raptor line it and still hose it out.
Call Kurt/Bryce @cruiseroutfit and tell him you want a clutch kit. If you are set on the front bearing, have him send an h42 rebuild kit too. It will have all the bearings and seals you need for the trans. I wouldn't get into the trans unless you really felt the need, and if you go in, just go all the way thru and rebuild the whole trans.
I might suggest that you replace the input seal on the trans without getting too deep in. On the pig, I did the rear main, clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, throw-out and pilot only to find the front of the trans is leaking like a muther. I ain't F'in with it right now, gonna just roll with it until something else takes it's place.
Call Kurt/Bryce @cruiseroutfit and tell him you want a clutch kit. If you are set on the front bearing, have him send an h42 rebuild kit too. It will have all the bearings and seals you need for the trans. I wouldn't get into the trans unless you really felt the need, and if you go in, just go all the way thru and rebuild the whole trans.
I might suggest that you replace the input seal on the trans without getting too deep in. On the pig, I did the rear main, clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, throw-out and pilot only to find the front of the trans is leaking like a muther. I ain't F'in with it right now, gonna just roll with it until something else takes it's place.
Perfect, I really like the ability to hose it out. I have never had a truck where I could do that before, because I built my 4 runner to be all nice and factory on the inside with carpet and stuff. Definitely going to have to go with the lizard skin on the inside. I think there was some kind of liner on the inside of the tub at some point in the back that is coming off. Dont know if its lizard skin or not.
Ill call up @cruiseroutfit when I get back from vacation and start getting the small parts ordered. The input shaft bearing looks pretty simple if you dont get into the actual trans, theres like a cover you take off then its just 2 snap rings and if you take the shifter base off you can whack at it with a long thin punch from the inside. I REALLY dont want to get into the guts of the trans because that is way past my skillset.
roll on bedliner from 2007.
In an effort to get my oil gauge working. Was wondering if anyone had any tips for me. So I’ve got a sender unit, but the wire comes out of it and seems to go to a Bosch relay. Maybe a EFI shut off switch if it loses pressure?
Here’s the sender:
The red wire comes off of it and ends here:
I have a spot on the block that looks like it’s plugged off. Was wondering if I could put the a second sender in it the yellow black wire that goes to the cluster is there. Didn’t know if that was a stock location
Here’s the sender:
The red wire comes off of it and ends here:
I have a spot on the block that looks like it’s plugged off. Was wondering if I could put the a second sender in it the yellow black wire that goes to the cluster is there. Didn’t know if that was a stock location
Wire should not be going to the relay. That relay is for the light bar. Follow the wire carefully, it can get confusing once you get to the firewall.
As far as the plug on the side that is the block drain to drain coolant out of the engine. You can put a sending unit there but it will read coolant temp not oil pressure.
Ah okay might be overthinking this hah
Hah .... ummm.... Also.... does anyone have a spare passenger side window glass for a non vent window they want to bring to crawl and trade me for greenbacks?
Bodean
Hot Damn
How did you bust that out? lol
