Build 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series
- Thread starter REZARF
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Nice project, I'd like to see what a winch looks like behind a factory bumper.
Liking your plan on this. I'll be hanging out and I'm going to try that Mothers stuff you used on the seats. They turned out great.
I'm very impressed with the seat work, I'll be trying that as well. Nice build so far, keep it up!
I understand your inner turmoil over getting a 100 instead of a Troopy. I've always wanted one as well, either a 40 or 70 series. But now having had my 100 for a while (I've had four FJ 40s, two BJ 60s and a LX450 since 1987) I think it is my favorite LC to date. I'd love to have a mid wheelbase 40 or 70 as well, and probably will someday, but this 100 is working well with my current needs.
I will also pick up some of the leather products you used and give them a try. The rears will probably come out ok, but I mar look into new front skins.
I will also pick up some of the leather products you used and give them a try. The rears will probably come out ok, but I mar look into new front skins.
- Thread starter
- #47
So, I got the rear quarter, bumper, tail light, tailgate fixed up this spring. The shop did a good job but in the end didn't replace the bumper with an OEM unit :angry: It's not a huge deal since I'll most likely replace it someday with a tire carrier. I've really enjoyed the 100 series, it is very comfortable and easy to drive... especially coming from a 40 
Ah, good as new...
Ah, good as new...
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- #48
Also I've been steadily planning my mods without going bananas. I think I am going to add a lift and tires next. I just scored a nice set of used 315 Duratracs so I am going to lift the 100 enough to stuff them under the rig. I am also starting to save up/sell off other parts to fund a 4:88 regear and front ARB locker (if this season proves it beneficial).
Here's a shot of the new shoes...
Here's a shot of the new shoes...
- Thread starter
- #49
I'm also adding a GPS Navigation/Bluetooth double DIN headunit from JVC. It has a backup camera, bluetooth, iPhone hookup, video, Nav, hands free phone calls etc... I am just waiting on the JVC to OEM harness connector then I'll wire it and hook it up.
Model is a JVC KW-NT300. I think its a bit older but I scored it for such a good deal I couldn't pass it up. I do think it'll be a slight upgrade to the tape deck in there now
Model is a JVC KW-NT300. I think its a bit older but I scored it for such a good deal I couldn't pass it up. I do think it'll be a slight upgrade to the tape deck in there now
- Thread starter
- #50
I've also started shopping for a ScanGauge II. While I have the dash torn apart for the radio install I am going to install a ScanGauge II and most likely a small CB for wheeling. However, one of my big plans is to keep the interior clean and uncluttered looking. I don't want it to look like the Dash threw up a bunch of electronics, cables and mics... I am thinking a small CB handheld unit that can be tucked away when not in use.
- Thread starter
- #51
Over the weekend I pulled the running boards off. It was an easy 1 banana job, which is nice to encounter every once in a while
I was impressed that all my hardware slipped out so easily. I am used to fighting 40 years of grime and rust on the 40. However, I still put a dab of anti-seize on each nut and bolt before reattaching them out of habit, I have seen that payoff in the 15 years of owning my 40 already.
Sans running boards... looks taller already.
And next up is to attach the new (to me) sliders. I am thinking I might add a step plate and weld it on top similar to how Slee builds his, but I might try some skate tape first and see if the kids don't kill themselves slipping on them.
I was impressed that all my hardware slipped out so easily. I am used to fighting 40 years of grime and rust on the 40. However, I still put a dab of anti-seize on each nut and bolt before reattaching them out of habit, I have seen that payoff in the 15 years of owning my 40 already.
Sans running boards... looks taller already.
And next up is to attach the new (to me) sliders. I am thinking I might add a step plate and weld it on top similar to how Slee builds his, but I might try some skate tape first and see if the kids don't kill themselves slipping on them.
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- Thread starter
- #52
I rolled the new shoes up next to the 100 and began measuring about where I will be with the OME lift. I may order a 1" body lift as well, but I'll cross that bridge when I see the clearance or lack there of in real time. Spacers will most likely needed to run and turn well. I knew the 315's would be a slippery slope but it is the size I think looks best on the 100 and I knew I would want to get that size eventually so I might as well jump into the deep end. 
I am researching lifts and shocks, and bumpstops, and adjustable control arms and body lifts and, and and... should be an adventure.
I still need to level out the stance as it is raked forward as it sits now.
I am researching lifts and shocks, and bumpstops, and adjustable control arms and body lifts and, and and... should be an adventure.
I still need to level out the stance as it is raked forward as it sits now.
- Thread starter
- #53
Started working on upgrading my factory audio system. I opted for a new all in one double DIN unit from JVC based on price and nothing else. I layed out all the associated wiring and harnesses for the install and they are labeled below...
- Thread starter
- #54
Popping in a new headunit isn't hard at all. Running the wires cleanly, securely and properly is just time consuming. I solder all connections then use heat shrink tubing. I also use an adapter for the stock harness so I don't need to cut anything factory in the cruiser and I can return the system to factory in minutes.
Step one: Yank out the dash control panel, it just snaps in.
Step two: Run your wires and cables in the right places.
Step three: Button it up.
Okay, it might be a little more involved than that but not too much. I did make a custom harness with the JVC/Toyota combo and needed to solder about 20ish connections there. Otherwise, it's plug and play.
Here's what you start with:
Slowly and carefully tear the insert out!
Disconnect the AC controls...
Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the factory Head Unit from the dash and remove the brackets so you can slap them on the new stereo.
Attach the brackets onto the new Head Unit. Snug them up but don't crank on them.
Step one: Yank out the dash control panel, it just snaps in.
Step two: Run your wires and cables in the right places.
Step three: Button it up.
Okay, it might be a little more involved than that but not too much. I did make a custom harness with the JVC/Toyota combo and needed to solder about 20ish connections there. Otherwise, it's plug and play.
Here's what you start with:
Slowly and carefully tear the insert out!
Disconnect the AC controls...
Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the factory Head Unit from the dash and remove the brackets so you can slap them on the new stereo.
Attach the brackets onto the new Head Unit. Snug them up but don't crank on them.
- Thread starter
- #55
Plug in your new connections, bolt the Head Unit in and replace the front dash panel after reconnecting all the AC controls.
Here is all the new connections I made. You can see the GPS antenna, Toyota to JVC harness plug, rear camera RCA, Mic and cable, rear Camera, RCA speaker wires, iPod connect USB etc.
I ended up tossing this homemade harness for a factory built plug in play. I wanted to alleviate any potential connection failures down the road and a nabbed a Toyota to JVC conversion plug for about $12 at my local audio store.
It gets a little tight but all in all, the wires and cables will stuff back behind the dash panel. Make sure to plug your AC controls back up and your all set.
Plug in your new connections, bolt the Head Unit in and replace the front dash panel after reconnecting all the AC controls.
Here is all the new connections I made. You can see the GPS antenna, Toyota to JVC harness plug, rear camera RCA, Mic and cable, rear Camera, RCA speaker wires, iPod connect USB etc.
I ended up tossing this homemade harness for a factory built plug in play. I wanted to alleviate any potential connection failures down the road and a nabbed a Toyota to JVC conversion plug for about $12 at my local audio store.
It gets a little tight but all in all, the wires and cables will stuff back behind the dash panel. Make sure to plug your AC controls back up and your all set.
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- Thread starter
- #56
Next up was a VERY, VERY important mod... my rear badge I got a tip they were producing these for Toyota enthusiasts and I got in early and scored two of these name badges for free. Pretty sweet, I put one on the 100 and saved the other for the 40.
I got a tip they were producing these for Toyota enthusiasts and I got in early and scored two of these name badges for free. Pretty sweet, I put one on the 100 and saved the other for the 40.
- Thread starter
- #58
I have gone around and around on tire size, I bought a used set of 315/75-16 Goodyear Duratrac's about a week ago. Then as I got deeper and deeper into the necessary mods to make them fit I got cold feet (for now). So I called up Nakman of Gamiviti and asked to take his 100 for drive to our local club meeting last week. Tim is on 285/75-16's and OME 2.5" lift. I was impressed with the quality of the suspension after driving a worn out factory ride for a year. There was really no power loss on the 285s that I could notice, combine that with the ease of strapping a set of 285's on without NEEDING, spacers, lift, gears etc. I poked around and found a barely used set of 285/75-16 Duratracs locally on CL near my house. These tires only had 4,000 miles on them so I jumped on them, shelved the 315's for now, and tossed the 285's on the truck Friday.
I will end up with 315's I am sure as I think they fill out the proportions of the 100 better than any other size available. However, for now I will save up for all the necessary goodies to make them fit and work properly. For the rest of this Colorado wheeling season I will the 285's and re access if I NEED the bigger tires for the trails we run.
For now I plan on adding a 30mm Coil Spring spacer to the rear coils and adjust the front torsion bars to match, align it and run it!
Great start to your thread!