- Thread starter
- #281
4.5LV build
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #283
Zip strip, iirc.
- Thread starter
- #284
About 8 hours of sorting, soldering and shrink wrapping.
Both harnesses are mostly all in under the dash.
A lot more of the stock harness will come out including all of the fuse box, but I need to work it out one circuit at a time. I'm using the 80 series fuse boxes and relays, but all the 45 switch gear. I need the space where the stock fuse box is for the heater and the space under the glove box for the FJ55 factory AC.
And yes, I will be installing grommets.
Both harnesses are mostly all in under the dash.
A lot more of the stock harness will come out including all of the fuse box, but I need to work it out one circuit at a time. I'm using the 80 series fuse boxes and relays, but all the 45 switch gear. I need the space where the stock fuse box is for the heater and the space under the glove box for the FJ55 factory AC.
And yes, I will be installing grommets.
- Thread starter
- #285
If you were paying big money for a clean, but already modified, 45LV, would you rather it had no heat or AC like it came, or with later model heat and AC and the extra holes cut in the firewall. I'm going to have to put a fresh air intake in the fender too.
I do have a dealer installed self contained heater from the SWB too.
I do have a dealer installed self contained heater from the SWB too.
If I were buying I'd want a nicely installed close to OEM system. Like 80 series under the hood and whatever fit/looked nice under the dash. Using as many off the shelf OEM components as possible would help with later repairs too (but they would have to be documented somehow).
Nick <- wishes he had enough $$$$ to buy this truck
Nick <- wishes he had enough $$$$ to buy this truck
Bear
SILVER Star
We all know it's a virgin only once--can't go back. As it's already modded, why not do a thoughtful deed and make it more comfortable for the next guy.
Besides, unless your big-bucks buyer is standing in front of you, cash-in-hand, you're only guessing what specifics he might or might not desire.
Besides, unless your big-bucks buyer is standing in front of you, cash-in-hand, you're only guessing what specifics he might or might not desire.
Probably best to just put them in. Or, offer as a "dealer" installed option once a buyer is found. Depending upon the location of the new owner, one or both could be avoided. Maybe Neil Young will buy it for his Hawaii home, in which case neither would be necessary.
- Thread starter
- #290
It does take up a lot of room under the dash. I could look into rebuilding the air box to maybe fit a bit better, but I'd be worried that the engineers built it a certain way for a reason. It does fit nicer under a 78 FJ55 dash. Certainly a cover is in order if I leave it where it's at.
- Thread starter
- #291
For those adapting 1FZs into things -
I had a 92 Camry LE with a bad speedo head in the shop so I had a spare cluster to play with. The four cluster plugs are exactly the same as a 97 harness and a lot of the wire colors are the same. Since there isn't room for the whole cluster in the 64 pod I took the PRNDL pod out of the cluster. It is it's own piece. I will probably end up with it down by the shifter. I don't know that the tach will work. I suspect I'll need one from a 3.0L camry and this is from a 2.2L, but I don't plan on using it anyway. I also took the speedo head out and will adapt it in place of the mechanical unit.
Of course, that's the part that I know is bad with this cluster so I will get another one. The last one I bought for the Camry was $20. That's a bit better than $250 for one for a LC.
I had a 92 Camry LE with a bad speedo head in the shop so I had a spare cluster to play with. The four cluster plugs are exactly the same as a 97 harness and a lot of the wire colors are the same. Since there isn't room for the whole cluster in the 64 pod I took the PRNDL pod out of the cluster. It is it's own piece. I will probably end up with it down by the shifter. I don't know that the tach will work. I suspect I'll need one from a 3.0L camry and this is from a 2.2L, but I don't plan on using it anyway. I also took the speedo head out and will adapt it in place of the mechanical unit.
Of course, that's the part that I know is bad with this cluster so I will get another one. The last one I bought for the Camry was $20. That's a bit better than $250 for one for a LC.
- Thread starter
- #292
Spent the last two days mostly messing with the shifter. I need to use a 80 shifter, because lokar doesnt make a good mechanical shifter with a right hand linkage. I hated the giant console I would have had to use to use the whole shifter plate so I cut it up into the basic parts and am reassembling it to be clean and less automatic looking.
I also put the front clip back on to look at radiator/condenser clearance and such. The headlight bucket hits the battery tray.
And I pulled everything out of it to start masking for paint next week.
I also put the front clip back on to look at radiator/condenser clearance and such. The headlight bucket hits the battery tray.
And I pulled everything out of it to start masking for paint next week.
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tucker74
Moderator
Can you use a 62 shifter? It's pretty clean and simple, mounts directly to the tunnel without tat stupid riser in the 80 base.
Just a thought
Tucker
Just a thought
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #294
Don't know. I have a 62 in the shop, but I can't tell without crawling under it to see where the shift linkage is.
I built a plate that bolts onto the top of the transmission to hold the shifter assembly. then I built a riser about an inch off the tunnel. The transfer case boot from a 40 covers the selector comb perfectly. I took pics but left the camera at the shop. I just need to fab up a shifter rod since they are discoed from Toyota. I am missing the shift lever from both A343s I have too. I found a lever from an air valve with the correct hole and shape. I just need to measure a stock one to figure out where to put the hole so the detents in the trans line up with the shifter stops.
Got the tailgate and lift gate out to paint them, but I'm out of high build primer, so that's gonna have to wait until Monday if the paint store is open.
I built a plate that bolts onto the top of the transmission to hold the shifter assembly. then I built a riser about an inch off the tunnel. The transfer case boot from a 40 covers the selector comb perfectly. I took pics but left the camera at the shop. I just need to fab up a shifter rod since they are discoed from Toyota. I am missing the shift lever from both A343s I have too. I found a lever from an air valve with the correct hole and shape. I just need to measure a stock one to figure out where to put the hole so the detents in the trans line up with the shifter stops.
Got the tailgate and lift gate out to paint them, but I'm out of high build primer, so that's gonna have to wait until Monday if the paint store is open.
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I might have a 62 shifter sitting here if u need or want one. Free to u if it will help.
Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #296
I think I have it handled. Thanks for the offer though.
Today was a good day. I got mostly left alone and made some progress. Welded up the shifter console. Sanded down, epoxy primed and high build primed the upper tail gate. Put the drivers side doors in high build as well.
Today was a good day. I got mostly left alone and made some progress. Welded up the shifter console. Sanded down, epoxy primed and high build primed the upper tail gate. Put the drivers side doors in high build as well.
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- Thread starter
- #297
Painted the insides of the drivers doors, lift gate and tail gate. Masked off the roof and front clip. Mounted the drivers doors and tail gates so I could run the line for the color change and masked the jams.
It was nice of Mr. T to put that body line in such a random place.
It was nice of Mr. T to put that body line in such a random place.
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- Thread starter
- #298
Dug out the PS doors and found the insides were never stripped. Pulled the glass out. Got out the sandblasting pot and went to work. Good God, Sandblasting with a pot sucks monkey ass.
Epoxy primed, high build primed and painted the front door. Primed the rear door, but the exterior is going to need some work. I had a student help strip the paint a couple of years ago and he knocked the some of the corners off. Its going to take some tricky filler work. Im going to have to make some custom sanding blocks.
blocked and painted the jams white. Painted the tailgate insert white as well.
stated masking off the jams and doors for grey. Ran into a couple of soft spots so I called it a day, took a couple of pics and went home for a nap.
Epoxy primed, high build primed and painted the front door. Primed the rear door, but the exterior is going to need some work. I had a student help strip the paint a couple of years ago and he knocked the some of the corners off. Its going to take some tricky filler work. Im going to have to make some custom sanding blocks.
blocked and painted the jams white. Painted the tailgate insert white as well.
stated masking off the jams and doors for grey. Ran into a couple of soft spots so I called it a day, took a couple of pics and went home for a nap.
- Thread starter
- #299
Went in today for an hour or so and finished masking and painted the jams grey.
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- #300
Today was just touching up some runs and taking the masking off. I ended up putting some stuff on as well.
I bought a little plane and it worked pretty good to knock the tops off the runs. A little wet sanding and they were good for some touch up. I just loaded a Preval sprayer rather than set up the paint gun again. Worked well. I had to thin it enough that it ran easy, but that wasn't a problem for the touch up, just when I was burning up the extra paint in the jar.
I hit all the windows a few inches out so those are all ready to get glass in.
Put the tailgate back on too.
Check out the early, early mud sticker.
I bought a little plane and it worked pretty good to knock the tops off the runs. A little wet sanding and they were good for some touch up. I just loaded a Preval sprayer rather than set up the paint gun again. Worked well. I had to thin it enough that it ran easy, but that wasn't a problem for the touch up, just when I was burning up the extra paint in the jar.
I hit all the windows a few inches out so those are all ready to get glass in.
Put the tailgate back on too.
Check out the early, early mud sticker.
