I bought a set from DT last week. I just gave them the size I wanted. I think by the time I pulled up and they saw the truck they were content that I knew what I was doing.
305/65/18 BFG KO2 Pics
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I bought a set from DT last week. I just gave them the size I wanted. I think by the time I pulled up and they saw the truck they were content that I knew what I was doing.
Small business “mom and pop” tire shops, 4x4 shops...no DT, Costco, Walmart etc.
DT refused to mount 35x12.50R15 on my 77 FJ-40 due to the 7” wide wheel. I ordered the tires, dropped the truck off and the manager called me at the end of the day to tell me they would not install and to pick up the truck and my refund.
I'm looking out my window at 3 Land Cruisers that all have way bigger than stock tires on them. All purchased at Discount Tire. All rejected on website form but all installed without any issues or protest, usually by enthusiastic folks who wanted to talk about where to wheel. For my 200, I had to have the tires brought in so I told their system I had a Dodge Ram.
Last edited:
You are lucky that your DT is willing to violate their own policy.
I politely argued that my FJ-40 is a hobby vehicle, that a 10.50” on a 5.5” wheel is practically gospel, and he preferred to refund my money for 5 BFG KM2s and lose my business, forever (I had bought 6-7 sets of BFGs from that sby then.)
Putting 12.5” tires on a 7” wheel is a unique scenario. Wouldn’t expect them to do that. I wouldn’t be that upset if I were you. Perhaps your expectations are part of the issue. I’ve got a great mom and pop tire shop in Atlanta that I use for oddball stuff. P&D Tire and auto on West Marietta. Tell them I sent you.
May be. Thing is, they had mounted 12.50 wide tires on the same 7” wheels in the past. So, my expectation was that they would do it again. It’s been 8 years, and I’ve long since found a 4x4 shop happy to help, but there was a bright line when all of the box stores started to strictly follow tire manufacturer’s recommendations for rim width, declining service if the computer didn’t give them a thumbs up.
I totally understand the liability and the business decision. I also understand that I’m free to use another shop. Also, 100% agree on the 12.50/7” combo, but I have some old OEM wheels that SOR used to sell as widened units, but only widened to 7”. As I moved from one 40 to the next, I went from 33s to 35s. If I could find a good 35x10.50 MT radial tire, good on the road, I’d be pretty happy.
There are multiple threads and posts on Mud from TLC owners who were unable to get common (when building these trucks) tire/wheel combinations mounted/serviced at chain tire stores that, historically, had never been an issue.
I guess it’s like bike helmets and it’s all
for my own good...but if the rule were universal, there wouldn’t be a single 40 Series running 33x10.50R15s on stock 5.5” wheels...because that combo is too dangerous.
I totally understand the liability and the business decision. I also understand that I’m free to use another shop. Also, 100% agree on the 12.50/7” combo, but I have some old OEM wheels that SOR used to sell as widened units, but only widened to 7”. As I moved from one 40 to the next, I went from 33s to 35s. If I could find a good 35x10.50 MT radial tire, good on the road, I’d be pretty happy.
There are multiple threads and posts on Mud from TLC owners who were unable to get common (when building these trucks) tire/wheel combinations mounted/serviced at chain tire stores that, historically, had never been an issue.
I guess it’s like bike helmets and it’s all
for my own good...but if the rule were universal, there wouldn’t be a single 40 Series running 33x10.50R15s on stock 5.5” wheels...because that combo is too dangerous.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #189
May be. Thing is, they had mounted 12.50 wide tires on the same 7” wheels in the past. So, my expectation was that they would do it again. It’s been 8 years, and I’ve long since found a 4x4 shop happy to help, but there was a bright line when all of the box stores started to strictly follow tire manufacturer’s recommendations for rim width, declining service if the computer didn’t give them a thumbs up.
I totally understand the liability and the business decision. I also understand that I’m free to use another shop. Also, 100% agree on the 12.50/7” combo, but I have some old OEM wheels that SOR used to sell as widened units, but only widened to 7”. As I moved from one 40 to the next, I went from 33s to 35s. If I could find a good 35x10.50 MT radial tire, good on the road, I’d be pretty happy.
There are multiple threads and posts on Mud from TLC owners who were unable to get common (when building these trucks) tire/wheel combinations mounted/serviced at chain tire stores that, historically, had never been an issue.
I guess it’s like bike helmets and it’s all
for my own good...but if the rule were universal, there wouldn’t be a single 40 Series running 33x10.50R15s on stock 5.5” wheels...because that combo is too dangerous.
You should have pulled your piece on them
Giving this a 2021 bump, finally joined the club here - thanks everyone for the great input: 2001 LC stock, added 865 OME rear springs, front/rear TT extended links, Bora 1.25", and cranked tbars to 20.5" hub to fender. Slight rub in front, heat gunned inside corner of front fender back, and now its all dialed in ready for summer adventures! The overall ride feels much more solid, and no longer has the caddy feel rolling over expansion joints etc. And yes the spare fits. Also rear no longer sagging under load and costing me all street credit...
Last edited:
Troubleshooting help 5k miles into the above setup:
I can't seem to get my driver's side t-bar to maintain 20.5" hub to fender. It slowly drops to 19.5" or so time after time. Anybody understand what that suggests? Do I need to replace my tbars? Also - I noticed while cranking up both sides that the passenger side was much easier to get to 20.5" and seemed to have additional room beyond 20.5". By comparison I could barely get the driver's side to 20.5" and continue to have issues keeping it there. Thanks in advance for any pro tips.
I can't seem to get my driver's side t-bar to maintain 20.5" hub to fender. It slowly drops to 19.5" or so time after time. Anybody understand what that suggests? Do I need to replace my tbars? Also - I noticed while cranking up both sides that the passenger side was much easier to get to 20.5" and seemed to have additional room beyond 20.5". By comparison I could barely get the driver's side to 20.5" and continue to have issues keeping it there. Thanks in advance for any pro tips.
So let me know if I have this approximately correct. 275/70/18 vs 305/65/18 is 10.5 wide vs 12 wide. That 1.5 ish difference will be split between .75 closer to the inside arms and .75 further out toward the wheel well. I think this difference is what I’m looking for which is why I’m intent on selling my spacers. Wish my tundra caps would clear
The hub without a spacer
The hub without a spacer
Without knowing exactly, that sounds like accurate math. Which I think is why the 1" spacer is the minimum size that gets enough clearance on the grease caps to fit the OEM wheel caps (if I'm recalling the hours of digesting all the info on the subject correctly). FWIW @BenCC has been making some nice custom wheel caps, may be helpful to your situation.
@BenCC have you done anything that goes with trd tundra wheels
No. It is pretty difficult to make something to fit a wheel. I have to have the wheel and put it on my truck. Only way I can measure the dimensions and fit the printed cap.
If you have a spare wheel and an original cap, and willing to mail them to me, I can make caps.
Damn I got four wheels and no spare
Circling back on this. I have 305/65/18 ridge grapplers set to go on my tundra wheels tomorrow (+60mm, 18”) and im trying to get a consensus opinion on if a factory tb tweak and 2866 springs will get the job done respective to fitting with only minimal rub (full lock type scenario)
- Thread starter
- #199
Every vehicle is different. I’ve got a 100 with Tbars that have been adjusted Over the years with 300,000 miles. The Tbars are maxed and it sits nose low with 866 rears.
Maybe its time re-index those TB's?