3 to 4 Speed Conv. - Do I need to move the "torque tube" cross member

[ryanwk628]

I have a 1970 (11/69) I have the tub off for an Aqualu 3/4 tub swap. While I am in there I am trying to get some things done and think ahead. I plan to do a 4 speed swap, but it will be a future project as I need to get the tub done before I lose this garage space. Before I paint the frame, should I move (cut and reweld) the torque tube/cross member behind the transmission? If so, how much?

Is this something I need to do? I have read conflicting information:

• A 4 speed will fit but you wont be able to remove the e brake.
• A 4 speed will fit but you have to shim the motor so its angled.
• A 4 speed will fit, just cut and rotate the torque tube back 45 degrees.
• A 4 speed wont fit without moving this tube reward some distance.

If I dont move it, could I install a 4 speed without pulling the engine and installing the engine/trans/t case from the front as an assembly?
If you did move it back, how did you do it? How far? What thickness of plates did you use?
I've seen discussions, but has anyone successfully made it removable? What did you use?

Thanks!

 

[mrboatman]

It’s tight but it will fit and work fine. With the tub off I would cut it and make it a bolt in removable type.

 

[POPO AGIE]

You should have more room then I do with the H55F and split transfer case with the e brake. I cut mine out and plan to put back later.

 

[igotta40]

I have done it. There is room. When it’s time to replace a clutch or whatever, the front motor mounts are disconnected and the front of the motor tilted upwards. It’s a little more complex than that, because the radiator fan shroud has to be loosened, and some other miscellaneous items, but moving the torque tube is optional. Also- the skid pan that you will need for a 4 speed will need two of the six mounting holes drilled.

 

[Its me shaneus]

Thread is a good reminder, I should put one back in!

Took mine out to fit H55 and split case. Never put it back.

 

[Jdc1]

For service you can take the rear mounts off of the bell housing and tilt the engine back. If you have throttle linkage remove it so it doesn’t get pinched or jammed.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I just got a set of these to.make it removable.

2" Weld In Tube Connectors Adapter Roll Cage Bungs Fits .095 & .120 Wall | eBay

No threads machined in bungs. For example: 2" Tube needs a 2" tube connector. -Fits. 095 wall and. 120 wall tubing. For use with 2"O.D. Tubing x. 095 &.120 wall tubing. -Pocketed cavity holds nut in place for easy tightening.

www.ebay.com

I will need to sleeve them with a piece of DOM to make them fit perfectly in the tube but I got tired of disconnecting my engine mounts to service my 4 speed in my 1972.

 

[nabbasi]

I just got a set of these to.make it removable.

2" Weld In Tube Connectors Adapter Roll Cage Bungs Fits .095 & .120 Wall | eBay

No threads machined in bungs. For example: 2" Tube needs a 2" tube connector. -Fits. 095 wall and. 120 wall tubing. For use with 2"O.D. Tubing x. 095 &.120 wall tubing. -Pocketed cavity holds nut in place for easy tightening.

www.ebay.com

I will need to sleeve them with a piece of DOM to make them fit perfectly in the tube but I got tired of disconnecting my engine mounts to service my 4 speed in my 1972.

These would be nice.

I’ve got a 2F + H42 + original “3 speed” transfer case in my 1967. It was done before me, but no evidence of being moved. Parking brake doesn’t have clearance to come off. I’m just going to remove / loosen the motor mounts.

 

[ryanwk628]

Update: I like the roll cage connectors but could not find any with the correct dimensions and the length was going to be a problem with the curves which start very close to the frame. I ended up having plates cut from Send Cut Send, which I bolted together and welded in after cutting the tube.

When I cut it the frame opened, maybe 3/16th, so I put a strap on it when tacking it back together.

After it was tacked up, I took it apart and welded it up. I welded around the OD, and went inside and fillet welded the seam which I ground flat afterwards. The hardest part was the back side of the bracket closest to the frame, which I set as far away as possible without getting into the radius. The opposite side I did just far enough out to clear the transfer case without getting into the bend.

This should provide plenty of clearance in the future when I want to swap to a 4 speed. No, its not as strong as the roll cage connections, but the people running without this piece and some of the simpler bolt in designs gave me confidence this should be fine. Im glad I did it now while the tub is off because it would be very difficult from underneath with the body on.

 

[Living in the Past]

Shortly after installing a four speed in my 68 I bought cheap off eBay. This has to be have been over twenty years ago when could ship part cheap. If I ever removed the tub would install it. 9/72 this started because it cleared the hand brake with a four speed that started at that time on the FJ40 in some markets. Interesting my 9/64 fj45lp-b has this same shape. The torque tune is further back but guess it's because the rear driveshaft is much longer and the angle down is a lot less then the FJ40.