3 on the tree to 4 on the floor

[mathblaster]

First let me say I've looked around for info on this but I've only found 3 speed transfer case swaps into a 4 speed cruiser.

I have a '71 fj40 with a 3 speed column shift and I want to swap in a 4 speed floor shift, I bought an "adapter kit" a while ago. So I have a 29 tooth gear, bearing, some spacers and long bolts.

Is there anything else I need besides the transmission?

I should be able to do this fairly easy right?

Anybody know of any helpful links? I couldn't find much...

Right now I think I can get a 4 speed transmission, but anyone else not too far from Minneapolis have one they don't need?

 

[Degnol]

Jim Toepper has a good article in Tech Links. Very inclusive.
Ed Long

 

[mcstrand]

I've got a newly acquired '77 with a complete, fully functional drivetrain (2F, 4 speed and transfer case) still in the vehicle. I'm debating whether to get a new tub, or part it out. At this point, I'd only be interested in selling the whole drivetrain, which may not be something you're interested in. I live in La Crosse, WI which is about 150 from Mpls. Let me know if this is something you'd like to talk about.

 

[Degnol]

Here's the link to the tach article:
http://www.toepper.net/3-speed to 4-speed conversion.htm
Ed

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

That tech article sums it up pretty well. I had my drive shafts cut/lengthened. I did this conversion in my FJ55, floor shift 3-spd to 4-spd. The xcase shifter linkage took me a while to acquire, but other than that it wasn't too hard of a conversion. You probably have the vacuum transfer case shifter, so don't need to worry about this.
Dan

 

[Pin_Head]

You also need the 4sp bellhousing, drive shafts and pinion flanges. You can also skip the pinion flanges and use the short end of the 3sp shaft at the differentials.

My personal view is that the 15% umprovement in low range isn't worth the money and effort to use the 3sp case with the Toyota 4sp. If you wheel it, an sm420 would be a better choice than the Toy 4sp for low range performance.

 

[mathblaster]

well, I might not know what I'm talking about but, Since I'm keeping my stock 3spd transfer case, won't my drive shafts be the same?

Will the 4spd bellhousing still allow me to keep my clutch, I replaced it only a few thousand miles ago. Honestly I don't exactly know where the bellhousing is/what is does. btw, I'm not as dumb as that last sentence makes me sound...

And I'm swapping transmissions so I have synchros in all my gears

 

[65swb45]

You also need the 4sp bellhousing, drive shafts and pinion flanges. You can also skip the pinion flanges and use the short end of the 3sp shaft at the differentials.

My personal view is that the 15% umprovement in low range isn't worth the money and effort to use the 3sp case with the Toyota 4sp. If you wheel it, an sm420 would be a better choice than the Toy 4sp for low range performance.

Yes on the bellhousing, maybe on everything else.

Only need the driveshafts and flanges if your trying to save $$ on having yours cut and retubed. SOA guys will tell you that your smaller ujoints actually have better flex.

As far as the gear ratios, Pin_Head presumes you are building a crawler. If you are just looking for the most comfortable DD with fully synchro'd gears and a 25% better first than you have now, you are on the right track. If you ARE thinking crawler, then I agree with him not to waste time with the Toyota tranny and go straight for the muncie.

 

[mathblaster]

yeah I'm not that hardcore yet, and it will be my dd. Why exactly should I get the 4 spd driveshafts & pinion flanges? I'm guessing the 4 spd transmission is a bit larger right, but I also have a 4in lift and I never did anything about my driveshafts yet, so maybe that will affect driveshaft length as well and I might be better off keeping what I got and getting those modified for what I need?

 

[Travis_Kinney]

Can I have your column shift linkages?

 

[Scott68FJ40]

Can I have your column shift linkages?

I might still have all of my column shift parts around here somewhere. Let me look. If I do, you can have it for the cost of shipping.

 

[CruisinGA]

yeah I'm not that hardcore yet, and it will be my dd. Why exactly should I get the 4 spd driveshafts & pinion flanges? I'm guessing the 4 spd transmission is a bit larger right, but I also have a 4in lift and I never did anything about my driveshafts yet, so maybe that will affect driveshaft length as well and I might be better off keeping what I got and getting those modified for what I need?

If I was in your situation, I would just keep your d-shafts and have them retubed to the correct lengths. Not very expensive, you know your shafts will be just right, and no fooling around trying to get parts.

 

[Pin_Head]

yeah I'm not that hardcore yet, and it will be my dd. Why exactly should I get the 4 spd driveshafts & pinion flanges? I'm guessing the 4 spd transmission is a bit larger right, but I also have a 4in lift and I never did anything about my driveshafts yet, so maybe that will affect driveshaft length as well and I might be better off keeping what I got and getting those modified for what I need?

If you're not particularly concerned about wheeling it, then just swap in the entire 4sp drive train from the bellhousing to the pinion flanges. Sell your 3sp stuff and the adaptor stuff and you will nearly break even. This would be the cheapest and easiest thing and you have the added benefit of using stock 4sp drive partss rather than custom ones.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

well, I might not know what I'm talking about but, Since I'm keeping my stock 3spd transfer case, won't my drive shafts be the same?

Will the 4spd bellhousing still allow me to keep my clutch, I replaced it only a few thousand miles ago. Honestly I don't exactly know where the bellhousing is/what is does. btw, I'm not as dumb as that last sentence makes me sound...

And I'm swapping transmissions so I have synchros in all my gears

You can keep your clutch. You have to change bellhousings (the cast piece that the houses the clutch and is the interface between the engine and transmission) because the 4spd tranny won't bolt up to your bellhousing.

You have to shorten your rear drive shaft and lengthen your front drive shaft because the 4spd tranny is about 4-inches longer than the 3spd (and about 3 times heavier) and the transfercase is bolted to the transmission (that's what those long bolts that came in your kit are for) so this puts the case 4 inches further back.

I did the same swap in my dd 55, for the same reason, synchro first gear.

Dan

 

[snailwagon]

One side note to remember, all of the bolts on the four speed are fine thread vs. the 3spd's course threads. If you use your 3spd clutch, you need your 3spd flywheel. I think the 4spd clutch holds better though, but this also requires a different slave cylinder and clutch fork. Driveshaft length changes is 3.5" plus or minus 1/8". If you have a vac. transfer, get a piece of the shift linkage extended 3.5" while you do your driveshafts. Change the rubber output seal on the tranny while it is out, and also change your rear main seal on your motor. I did the same swap a few months ago on my 55, well worth it just for syncro

 

[mathblaster]

Now we're getting somewhere. I'm sure I can handle all this, but how many banana's is this swap?

Anybody have links to a tutorial with pics on this? The more info I have the easier this will go

 

[Mace]

You sure you need a different slave cylinder??

You can keep your 3 speed clutch.

Banannas?? Bout 3 out of 5



Pull tranny cover,
unbolt all parts hooked to the tranny tcase.
Unbolt tranny tcase from Bhousing.
remove tranny/tcase
REmove clutch and flywheel.

Remove 3 speed BH.
Bolt on 4 speed BH
replace clutch.

Slide in 4 speed tranny and Tcase. (never tha easy)

measure for new DS
Call Jess at Highangle to get your new DS made.

Hook up speedo cable and pbrake cable.

Install cool new DS

put tranny tunnel cover back on.

(most of the time you have to pull the seats to pull the tranny tunnel.)

See how nice it is to have a true 4 speed.