2F-E Swap for Fiona (1 Viewer)

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) combustion chambers #1 and 2
2.) combustion chambers #3 and 4
3.) combustion chambers #5 and 6

looks like they were all firing pretty well right up till it started knocking. which means i feel just that much better bout not sending the head out to have a valve job done.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

bottom of 3FE head.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

thats it for right now. ima clean up the valve covers and decide which one i want to use and just start getting it all ready. I still have to get a few things like a cold start injector, fuel pump, and either make or buy a fuel pump block off plate for the 2F block.

 

[zuluzeugma]

Dude... You have stalled big time. Its been over a month. Update???

 

[zuluzeugma]

And another month has gone by. Whats up dude? Too much Flying Saucer?

Bump.

 

[zuluzeugma]

Did you give up on this project?

 

[fjman]

Nice airhorns......

looks alot better than mine when I torn it down!

 

[RockDoc]

1.) combustion chambers #1 and 2
2.) combustion chambers #3 and 4
3.) combustion chambers #5 and 6

looks like they were all firing pretty well right up till it started knocking. which means i feel just that much better bout not sending the head out to have a valve job done.

Looks like someone's already done a valve job on that head. I don't believe those are toyota valves.

For comparison, here's the one I just tore down (Jan, 88). Different dimples, and once cleaned up, the TEQ stamp is visible on them.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

whoa! talk about getting totally sidetracked!

yes the head has had a valve job done before in its life somewha recent to when i got it.

update now is i got the 3fe on the 2F block (ill get ya some pics here soon)

aparently you have to use the 3fe head bolts for at least the center bolts as the head is shorter and with the 2F head bolts they dont even make contack with the head, so i am needing to switch those back over and get it torqued down.

my next step is the cam and the dizzy....

my understanding is that stock for stock the 3fe cam is slightly more of an agressive cut than the 2F cam and therefore i will be swapping the 2.

next thing is more of a quesion. the 3FE dizzy supposedly has some electronic thingy that the 2F dizzy doesnt? and i need to swap it over to the 2F block as well to make it run right? anyone got any more info on this? i mean it aint no problem i just kinda wanna know the reasoning thats all.

after that is done i will be setting valves ad puttin on the valve cover and then doing something with the pcv valves and most likely welding up the side cover and using the 3fe valve cover. then i nedd to mount my electrical fuel pump and decide how i wanna power it, block off mechanical fuel pump on 2F block. then its pretty much time to pull the other motor and get the new one in my truck so i can start driving here again!!!!!!!

 

[tonkota]

whoa! talk about getting totally sidetracked!

yes the head has had a valve job done before in its life somewha recent to when i got it.

update now is i got the 3fe on the 2F block (ill get ya some pics here soon)

aparently you have to use the 3fe head bolts for at least the center bolts as the head is shorter and with the 2F head bolts they dont even make contack with the head, so i am needing to switch those back over and get it torqued down.

my next step is the cam and the dizzy....

my understanding is that stock for stock the 3fe cam is slightly more of an agressive cut than the 2F cam and therefore i will be swapping the 2.

next thing is more of a quesion. the 3FE dizzy supposedly has some electronic thingy that the 2F dizzy doesnt? and i need to swap it over to the 2F block as well to make it run right? anyone got any more info on this? i mean it aint no problem i just kinda wanna know the reasoning thats all.

after that is done i will be setting valves ad puttin on the valve cover and then doing something with the pcv valves and most likely welding up the side cover and using the 3fe valve cover. then i nedd to mount my electrical fuel pump and decide how i wanna power it, block off mechanical fuel pump on 2F block. then its pretty much time to pull the other motor and get the new one in my truck so i can start driving here again!!!!!!!

Good to note on the head bolts. I didn't have 2F head bolts when I did mine, so I had no way of knowing that. Good find!

You will need the 3F-E distributor, no big deal.

On the cam, if you want to use the 3F cam, that is fine, but you'll need to get it ground along with the lifters from the 2F. Otherwise you will destroy that cam and lifters.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Good to note on the head bolts. I didn't have 2F head bolts when I did mine, so I had no way of knowing that. Good find!

You will need the 3F-E distributor, no big deal.

On the cam, if you want to use the 3F cam, that is fine, but you'll need to get it ground along with the lifters from the 2F. Otherwise you will destroy that cam and lifters.

i was wondering when you were gonna grace my presence

i have the complete 3fe block so i just figured i swap lifters cam and all over to the 2F, I also have a set of brand new lifters i could use.
this is of course with the notion that the 3fe cam is more agressive lift than the stock 2F cam if they are them same then there is no point.
having the complete other engine means i also have the 3fe dizzy to swap over as well. but my question is why do i need to use that one? what is diferant between the 2f dizzy and the 3fe dizzy?

 

[tonkota]

I've been watching this since the beginning!

The problem is that you need the 2F lifters to deal with the height of the 2F block. Check the CAMSHAFT thread in my sig. There isn't much difference between the cams.

The lifters need to stay with the same lobes they rode on since that is where they wore in. Changing that could mean disaster.

I know nothing about a 2F dist. But the 3F-E dist has an electronic advance and will require the computer and its wisdom.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

ahh ok so it had to do with the advance.

and yea just got done reading your cam thread i read it a while back and just read it again there is a 5* cam timing differance between the 2 cams. i dont really think it will give me enough gain to justify the additional cost at this time. the whole idea of this motor was cheap but more power and reliable. if its in there long enough ill go custom as you did.

 

[tonkota]

I'd pay the $125 for the cam to be redone with the lifters (Delta Camshaft). You'll be impressed, plus you'll save a bunch of time and money doing it now rather than later.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Thanks for the tip i will look into them.
and with the cam being reground i can use the brand new set of 2F lifters i have sitting here too.
what was the turnaround time?

 

[tonkota]

Thanks for the tip i will look into them.
and with the cam being reground i can use the brand new set of 2F lifters i have sitting here too.
what was the turnaround time?

I think I sent it out on Thursday and I had it back on Monday. Just a couple days. You ship it, once it gets there it takes them a day then they ship it back. The cam made a huge difference in how it feels. Honestly, after driving my dads 1995 chevy with a 350 and automatic, my FJ62 feels about the same in the power dept. I think that pickup weighs more, but the feel was the same to me (seat of the pants dyno).

Part number 859 KC from Delta Camshaft.

 

[Moby]

+1 on doing the cam now, you'll be glad that you did. You've already got a little compression bump from the extra displacement under the 3FE head. A moderately more aggressive cam profile (basically any of the off the shelve cams or regrind profiles that are available) complements that very nicely to build strong, usable power from down low to 4000+ rpm for not much extra coin.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I think I sent it out on Thursday and I had it back on Monday. Just a couple days. You ship it, once it gets there it takes them a day then they ship it back. The cam made a huge difference in how it feels. Honestly, after driving my dads 1995 chevy with a 350 and automatic, my FJ62 feels about the same in the power dept. I think that pickup weighs more, but the feel was the same to me (seat of the pants dyno).

Part number 859 KC from Delta Camshaft.

+1 on doing the cam now, you'll be glad that you did. You've already got a little compression bump from the extra displacement under the 3FE head. A moderately more aggressive cam profile (basically any of the off the shelve cams or regrind profiles that are available) complements that very nicely to build strong, usable power from down low to 4000+ rpm for not much extra coin.

alright im sold turn around time and price is to fast and cheap for the strong improvement in power not to do it.

so do you notice any sort of lope to it at all or is it just a pretty mild grind adding more lift and not so much duration? i figure if the duration was changed enough to give it a lope i would probally loose some torque which is the whole point of a straight 6.

so your saying that it was $125 for cam and lifters? to be reground and refinished? i wonder how much for just the cam as i have a set of brand new lifters already...

guess ill go ahead and give em the 3fe cam since it is slightly more advanced and the toyota part number supersedes the 2F cam.

 

[Moby]

Tonkota can better speak to the Delta cam profile. I talked to Delta when I did my engine and their profiles (there are two) are both mild duration increases and more lift (one just a bit more than the other). My cam is a custom profile spec'd by my engine builder, I figured they knew best for what they were putting together. It is pretty close to the off the shelve cam profiles though. My idle is very smooth and I've got, I think, ~18" vacuum at 650 idle and the vacuum is very solid.

 

[tonkota]

so do you notice any sort of lope to it at all or is it just a pretty mild grind adding more lift and not so much duration? i figure if the duration was changed enough to give it a lope i would probally loose some torque which is the whole point of a straight 6.
so your saying that it was $125 for cam and lifters? to be reground and refinished? i wonder how much for just the cam as i have a set of brand new lifters already...

There might be a little lope, it's hard to tell. All I know is driving it with a plain 2F-E was great. Then I added this cam and it really woke up. It cruises loaded much easier. It pulls hard from idle to 4000+ RPM. And if I didn't have a slush box I'm sure it would feel more snappy. I promise that you'll be happy you did it.

Yes, $125 for the cam and lifters. IIRC the cam by itself was about $80. And get the bottle of cam break in lube from them. It contains zinc I think.