Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40

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Engine builder say end of month :bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:
 
Crank is going out to be heat treated:cool:
 
Found out today the the Wolf V500 only need one timing mark from the dizzy for TDC No1. The dizzy currently has 2, one for TDC No1 and TDC No6.



One will be machined off, so between the one left and the 24 toothed gear underneath all is good.

Also picked up the air and water temp sensors today too.

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Have been looking at the fuel system in detail this week.

Bosch M sport 500hp fuel pump $275Aus
Magna fuel reg $295Aus
Surge tank 1.9ltr $189Aus
Fuel pump bracket $18Aus
Fittings and check valve $120

Now to hit Ebay and see what I can save:D
 
Con rods are just about finished been polished at the moment.

As you can see the ARP Ford rod bolts length is spot on for the Jaguar con rods.

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i'm jealous. at first i thought "why waste the cash" but now.... how much for a test drive when it's done???
 
I think your quite a ways down in the request for test drives I even have one from.

WOW!

Hell yeah! I need to come to Australia anyway. Just finished editing a three-part story on a guy who drove an Aussie HJ60 across the OTL, up to the Tip, and beyond. God it looks great there. If we fly in can we crash a night at your house and go wheeling?!

Dave, editor


__________________
David Zartman
Publisher
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine

I said YES
 
Now the new cradle will be underway shortly to strengthen the bottom end and though I doubt few will follow with what is almost a full race build, some may be interested in a stronger bottom end kit for a mild built 2F

I have had a chat with with my engine builder and he is agreeable in supplying a cradle kit. After the first one it's much cheaper :crybaby: Though from what I understand this will need to be fitted while you are rebuilding your engine and is not something you can bolt on after.

So if any of you out there are interested let me know I'm getting quite good at shipping to the USA:D
 
The bearing in the dizzy was not too crash hot so while machining off the extra un-required timing point I decide to replace the bearing.

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Toyota here I have to say Suck Big Time.

The bearing is a 6201 at fist glance hmmmm but a few other small marking make it slightly different.

A metric 6201 has a 12mm I/D jsut too small:mad:

An Imperial 6201 has a 1/2" I/D just too big:mad:

I have a sneaky feeling that Toyota won't supply the bearing but I bet I can buy a whole new dizzy:mad::mad::mad:

Well thanks to the boys at LOCTITE I can use the 1/2" I/D

Just have to machine a bronze spacer to set the hight again as this is done by how far the original bearing is pressed on, where as the new bearing goes all the way to the end of the shaft

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As for the boy's at Toyota:flipoff2: use standard part in future:mad:
 
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Also picked up the fuel pump today

Bosch 0 580 254 044 M sport and I got the Bling bracket too:D

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Home-brew intercooler is almost ready, the internals are complete and high pressure tested and no leaks:bounce:

Just need to finish the outer skin, which I have changed the design of very slightly to give better air flow on the side to the Plenum and hope fully even less pressure drop.
 
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Been looking at the plumbing for the wastegate and I think this will work best, but would like others opinions.

See pic below, I was thinking of drilling and removing what looks like a plug in the throtle body. It's the small round shinny silvery looking part. Looking at the casting this was added to just block this part of the hole after casting, it feeds from just before the throttle body butterfly, goes up and turns towards the words Toyota, there is an adjustment screw coming into it from 90 degrees to the side, if I open it up I think it would make the ideal spot for the pluming for the wastegate into.


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Been looking at the plumbing for the wastegate and I think this will work best, but would like others opinions.

See pic below, I was thinking of drilling and removing what looks like a plug in the plenum. It's the small round shinny silvery looking part. Looking at the casting this was added to just block this part of the hole after casting, it feeds from just before the throttle body butterfly, goes up and turns towards the words Toyota, there is an adjustment screw coming into it from 90 degrees to the side, if I open it up I think it would make the ideal spot for the pluming for the wastegate into.

If I remember correctly there is another adjustment screw underneath that plug. Dang if I can remember what it does.
 
If I remember correctly there is another adjustment screw underneath that plug. Dang if I can remember what it does.

Had a good look with a torch and an inspection mirror and I can't see any sign of a thread on the inside, still looks just like a plug.
Any idea how to remove it?


The new ECU Wolf V500 will not require the cold start injector or the old fuel pressure regulator as it getting a new one, doing away with the VSV valve as well. All making the new EFI system far simpler with as far as I can see now not one single original vacuum hose:bounce:. The cold start timer switch will also be obsolete. One of the joys of been pre emissions here.

Their will be one air temp sensor in the 80mm out of the intercooler, one water temp sensor for the ECU in the thermostat housing and one temp sensor for the instrument gauge also in the thermostat housing.
 
Carefully drilled the plug (5.2mm) looking for any change in material just incase I drilled into a screw and then tapped a M6 thread into it, then used a slide hammer and screw to pull it out. All too easy no screw at the back of it Pappy, at least on the Aus model.
Now to machine a new fitting with an 6mm hose tail to match the one on the wastegate and press fit that back into the same hole.

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Toyota could not have done better here if they had planned it:)
 
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The block off plates are now all in place, the EGR and Cold Start Injector also the VSV with a allen cap plug.

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Postie came today with another little piece of the puzzle. The oil outlet flange/coupling for the Turbo courtesy of eBay.

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Going to have to stop buying blue anodized parts:D
 
I think AN fittings looks better with the anodizing wire wheeled off. Find a show car guy and grab up his stash of scratched fittings and go to town.
 
Machined the fitting for the hose to the wastegate that runs from the throttle body, pics a little poor but it's my phone camera. Also made a little tool to fit over it, down to the shoulder so I could punch it back in. Plus a little never coming out again Loctite stud lock:D

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All done, you can just see inside the throttle body where it feeds from.


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