Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40
- Thread starter matt.mcinnes
- Start date
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #222
Have always had issues with the power steering on my truck so time to put this right during the conversion.
Started a separate thread for this work
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=172620
Also ordered a new Cold Start Timer Switch from Toyota $290Aus
2-3 weeks ex Japan
Started a separate thread for this work
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=172620
Also ordered a new Cold Start Timer Switch from Toyota $290Aus
2-3 weeks ex Japan
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #223
Bought a 2F engine number 2F630065 out of a 40 series for the build of the bottom end. Arriving Monday
This will be Re-bored +.066 to suit the custom pistons, the crank will be ground to suit the Jaguar Con Rods. The block will also be O-ringed around each cylinder and therefor require a custom copper head gasket. New stronger head bolts. custom cam and the main bearing caps will be strengthened to cope with the stresses of the turbo.
Balanced and Blue Printed.
This will be Re-bored +.066 to suit the custom pistons, the crank will be ground to suit the Jaguar Con Rods. The block will also be O-ringed around each cylinder and therefor require a custom copper head gasket. New stronger head bolts. custom cam and the main bearing caps will be strengthened to cope with the stresses of the turbo.
Balanced and Blue Printed.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #224
Well I have been looking at the various options for inter-coolers and decided to build my own as i can't quite find what I want.
This may or may not be a good idea but still the fun is in the building wether it works or not.
I came across these by chance while looking for somewhere to coat the headers, So after a little reading and research here SRM – A global high tech leader in energy efficiency development – SRM and shopping on eBay I bought 4 Laminova inter -cooler cores for $50
These are extremely compact and if successful will make an ideal Air to Water inter-cooler. so with a little Aluminum and ingenuity we will see what we can build
The cores have the following dimensions: inches (mm)
Length:
Overall, 15.5" (393)
Finned, 14.8" (376)
End sealing surface, .255" (6.45)
Diameter:
Finned section, 1.56" (39.5)
End sealing surface, 1.19" (30.3)
Center ID, .790" (20)
Cores also include a press-fit plug in one end that can be removed to allow internal coolant bypass.
This may or may not be a good idea but still the fun is in the building wether it works or not.
I came across these by chance while looking for somewhere to coat the headers, So after a little reading and research here SRM – A global high tech leader in energy efficiency development – SRM and shopping on eBay I bought 4 Laminova inter -cooler cores for $50
These are extremely compact and if successful will make an ideal Air to Water inter-cooler. so with a little Aluminum and ingenuity we will see what we can build
The cores have the following dimensions: inches (mm)
Length:
Overall, 15.5" (393)
Finned, 14.8" (376)
End sealing surface, .255" (6.45)
Diameter:
Finned section, 1.56" (39.5)
End sealing surface, 1.19" (30.3)
Center ID, .790" (20)
Cores also include a press-fit plug in one end that can be removed to allow internal coolant bypass.
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Awesome build!
I just wanted to comment on your turbo choice, the GT3582 is a pretty big = late spooling, laggy turbo. I would assume you want your power to kick in at a lower rpm versus the 3500rpm or so that the GT3582 requires. I have a Saab track car that I run two different turbos on, for tight autocross I run a GT3071 which spools quick and starts making excellent tq/hp around 2200 rpm. The GT3582 I only run on big, open road courses where she can really stretch her legs due to the lag of such a large turbo. If it were me, I would seriously consider a GT3071 as mentioned, mine is making 420whp/512tq @20 psi with 1000cc injectors and 2x walbro 255lph fuel pumps on a 4 cylinder mind you! Even with the Gt3071, I can easily spin the wheels at 80mph in 4th gear just by pressing the pedal to the floor! With the GT3582 i'm making over 500whp and 600+tq. One thing I would definitely recommend is a ball mount for the turbo... I, personally, consider them mandatory on anything making over 300hp or gobs of torque... Also, if you can swing it on your header, an external wastegate is super nice and allows further adjustability. Also, the steed speed inline BOV (blow off valve) is really nice and saves some time/money in fabricating since all you have to do is cut your intake charge pipe and install it there. They come in a number of sizes and cost roughly $250US which is pretty damn cheap when you start comparing; plus they are much more efficient! Not to mention, they are the only choice, IMHO, when you are cramped for space! Also, a 3” down pipe and a 3" exhaust (all mandrel bent) would definitely be on my list for either turbo. You could definitely get by with a 2.5" cat back exhaust (again, all mandrel bent) but that would be the absolute minimum. Not to mention, a well thought out intake with a K&N cone or the like, turbos have to breathe well!!
Oh yeah, one last thing.... As others have stated, water/meth injection is definitely the way to go. I was able to squeeze another 75hp/100tq with the underdog racing setup which I prefer as it gives you a nice gauge to display various settings, low bottle etc. As someone else said, when taking apart a motor that has such a setup, they look practically brand new. The big advantage is that you are significantly lowering intake charge temps thus more boost and timing if you desire. You can get a good system from aquamist or snow performance much cheaper ~$250US vs $750 than an underdog racing setup and actually most other kits run many of the aquamist parts. I believe with those you still get a little controller that shows a low bottle warning etc. I just really like having the gauge as it's a much cleaner install (i'm pretty ocd about my stuff!)
Oh yeah, be sure to check out the turbonetics GTK series turbos! They are pretty spendy, $1200-$1600 US but I think the benefits are well worth it and I'm about to get one myself (probably the 650). The enhanced port mapping is incredible. I just helped a friend setup one on a STi WRC rally car and you should see the dyno graph! I'll get a copy from him and post it but it spikes to full hp/tq at 2000rpm and is a straight line from there to 8k redline!!!
If any of this doesn't make sense, I apologize! I'm pretty heavily medicated, hit the ER at 3am with a massive kidney stone...
They sent me home with 65 60mg Morphine pills till I can have it surgically removed Tuesday.... UGHHH!!!
If you would like further info, feel free to email me as I don't check here to often: joshm@saabmotoring.com. I'm in the middle of selling my 96' LX450 to get a Fj60 to build for expedition. I have a farm in Dos Brazos, Costa Rica and am building it to drive down there from N. Alabama[/COLOR]. I'll be going SOA, 37's/Stazworks beadlocks, 1 tons, 4bt, custom trailer/Autohome Overland tent etc etc. So I will be here consistently in a couple months once I start my buildup...
Major props to you for not doing what most would = drop in a v8! It's definitely a good read and surely a fun project! It’s always refreshing to see something done outside the box!!
-JDM
I just wanted to comment on your turbo choice, the GT3582 is a pretty big = late spooling, laggy turbo. I would assume you want your power to kick in at a lower rpm versus the 3500rpm or so that the GT3582 requires. I have a Saab track car that I run two different turbos on, for tight autocross I run a GT3071 which spools quick and starts making excellent tq/hp around 2200 rpm. The GT3582 I only run on big, open road courses where she can really stretch her legs due to the lag of such a large turbo. If it were me, I would seriously consider a GT3071 as mentioned, mine is making 420whp/512tq @20 psi with 1000cc injectors and 2x walbro 255lph fuel pumps on a 4 cylinder mind you! Even with the Gt3071, I can easily spin the wheels at 80mph in 4th gear just by pressing the pedal to the floor! With the GT3582 i'm making over 500whp and 600+tq. One thing I would definitely recommend is a ball mount for the turbo... I, personally, consider them mandatory on anything making over 300hp or gobs of torque... Also, if you can swing it on your header, an external wastegate is super nice and allows further adjustability. Also, the steed speed inline BOV (blow off valve) is really nice and saves some time/money in fabricating since all you have to do is cut your intake charge pipe and install it there. They come in a number of sizes and cost roughly $250US which is pretty damn cheap when you start comparing; plus they are much more efficient! Not to mention, they are the only choice, IMHO, when you are cramped for space! Also, a 3” down pipe and a 3" exhaust (all mandrel bent) would definitely be on my list for either turbo. You could definitely get by with a 2.5" cat back exhaust (again, all mandrel bent) but that would be the absolute minimum. Not to mention, a well thought out intake with a K&N cone or the like, turbos have to breathe well!!
Oh yeah, one last thing.... As others have stated, water/meth injection is definitely the way to go. I was able to squeeze another 75hp/100tq with the underdog racing setup which I prefer as it gives you a nice gauge to display various settings, low bottle etc. As someone else said, when taking apart a motor that has such a setup, they look practically brand new. The big advantage is that you are significantly lowering intake charge temps thus more boost and timing if you desire. You can get a good system from aquamist or snow performance much cheaper ~$250US vs $750 than an underdog racing setup and actually most other kits run many of the aquamist parts. I believe with those you still get a little controller that shows a low bottle warning etc. I just really like having the gauge as it's a much cleaner install (i'm pretty ocd about my stuff!)
Oh yeah, be sure to check out the turbonetics GTK series turbos! They are pretty spendy, $1200-$1600 US but I think the benefits are well worth it and I'm about to get one myself (probably the 650). The enhanced port mapping is incredible. I just helped a friend setup one on a STi WRC rally car and you should see the dyno graph! I'll get a copy from him and post it but it spikes to full hp/tq at 2000rpm and is a straight line from there to 8k redline!!!
If any of this doesn't make sense, I apologize! I'm pretty heavily medicated, hit the ER at 3am with a massive kidney stone...
They sent me home with 65 60mg Morphine pills till I can have it surgically removed Tuesday.... UGHHH!!!If you would like further info, feel free to email me as I don't check here to often: joshm@saabmotoring.com. I'm in the middle of selling my 96' LX450 to get a Fj60 to build for expedition. I have a farm in Dos Brazos, Costa Rica and am building it to drive down there from N. Alabama[/COLOR]. I'll be going SOA, 37's/Stazworks beadlocks, 1 tons, 4bt, custom trailer/Autohome Overland tent etc etc. So I will be here consistently in a couple months once I start my buildup...
Major props to you for not doing what most would = drop in a v8! It's definitely a good read and surely a fun project! It’s always refreshing to see something done outside the box!!
-JDM
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #226
Thanks for the info I will drop you an email to chew the fat.
Bought a new toy today for putting it all together along with a few sockets, 3 of which are on back order
Bought a new toy today for putting it all together along with a few sockets, 3 of which are on back order
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #227
Well after a few more long phone calls and emails I have decided to go with a Garrett GT3082R Trim AR 0.63
This smaller turbo will spool up quicker with less lag from TweakIT
Actually Garrett don't list this one on there own site which is why I we missed it when making our decision.
Ordered today
This smaller turbo will spool up quicker with less lag from TweakIT
Actually Garrett don't list this one on there own site which is why I we missed it when making our decision.
Ordered today
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #228
Well I have been looking at the various options for inter-coolers and decided to build my own as i can't quite find what I want.
This may or may not be a good idea but still the fun is in the building wether it works or not.
I came across these by chance while looking for somewhere to coat the headers, So after a little reading and research here http://www.opcon.se/index.asp?sPage=1&langID=2&cID=15 and shopping on eBay I bought 4 Laminova inter -cooler cores for $50
These are extremely compact and if successful will make an ideal Air to Water inter-cooler. so with a little Aluminum and ingenuity we will see what we can build
The cores have the following dimensions: inches (mm)
Length:
Overall, 15.5" (393)
Finned, 14.8" (376)
End sealing surface, .255" (6.45)
Diameter:
Finned section, 1.56" (39.5)
End sealing surface, 1.19" (30.3)
Center ID, .790" (20)
Cores also include a press-fit plug in one end that can be removed to allow internal coolant bypass.
I'll start a separate Inter-cooler thread for this, but the materials for construction of the housing $160Aus, I have a good bit of 3mm sheet in the garage already. Will have plenty left over too. minimum length is a pain in the
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vtcruiser60
SILVER Star
Wow....quite a thread.
Good luck Matt.....
Good luck Matt.....
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #230
Well things are cooking work has started on the block and Colin at TDC has a few tricks up his sleeve for sure.
It seems we will be re drilling the holes for the cylinder head bolts and re tapping them to a custom bolt of a larger size and strength
The main bearing end caps are been replaced by some new laser cut versions if I understood correctly
The cylinder walls will be ultra sounded and if thick enough left as is if not sleeved.
Oh and yes now I'm getting excited this arrived today
It seems we will be re drilling the holes for the cylinder head bolts and re tapping them to a custom bolt of a larger size and strength
The main bearing end caps are been replaced by some new laser cut versions if I understood correctly
The cylinder walls will be ultra sounded and if thick enough left as is if not sleeved.
Oh and yes now I'm getting excited this arrived today
Its awesome to see a 2f getting what i would consider a "full race" build on it. Im really interested to see the main caps, i wonder if they added a splayed outer bolt or something.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #232
Splayed outer bolts have been discussed one in each direction but the final decision I have left to Colin he know his stuff.
But yes this will be pretty much a full race build, it will be interesting to see what you can get out of a 2F and the final over all price.
At the end of the day most will never follow in my foot steps but some of the information here can be used in part rather than whole.
I'm looking forward to completion and DYNO as they say the proof is in the pudding. Chicken salad or chicken $hit as Pin Head would say, only the Mule will tell.
This is what we are trying to compete against truck like these and I still have leaf springs
Would not trade them for all the tea in China thoughhttp://www.ontrack4x4.net.au/Shrek Rebuild.htm
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #233
Well after searching the net world wide I went with this Tial wastegate
Good price here too fingers crossed it's genuine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=130151579947&rd=1
Good price here too fingers crossed it's genuine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=130151579947&rd=1
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #234
Been looking at options for the fuel system today and the old mech 2F fuel pump runs more than 2400cc/min or 146.5cu.in/min. So that should be plenty.
Now before you all jump in and say it won't make enough pressure for the injectors I KNOW
The mech pump will feed a large surge tank, from there the high pressure pump with high pressure lines will run the injection system with the excess fuel going back to the surge tank.
This way the old fuel lines too and from the tank don't need to be replaced.
Now before you all jump in and say it won't make enough pressure for the injectors I KNOW
The mech pump will feed a large surge tank, from there the high pressure pump with high pressure lines will run the injection system with the excess fuel going back to the surge tank.
This way the old fuel lines too and from the tank don't need to be replaced.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #235
Finally decided to go with the Wolf 500V ECU and Save $400 over the Autronic both do pretty much the same.
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #236
Looks like the 3FE dissy outputs will be fine for the ECU as they are
Looking sweet.
BTW that snap on torque wrench is pimp.
BTW that snap on torque wrench is pimp.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #238
My Mech's local Snap on dealer is retiring so I picked up a bargin or two off the Van as he's selling up
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #239
Back to the Dizzy.
From what I can understand so far from the Wolf's manual is there are a few various options for timing signals this one seems to suit best.
Quote Wolf V500
Quote Toyota Landcruiser New Features.
Quote Toyota FSM 3FE
From these 3 bits of information I gather my 3FE dizzy will be just fine, feel free to confirm my thoughts though as this is all new
From what I can understand so far from the Wolf's manual is there are a few various options for timing signals this one seems to suit best.
Quote Wolf V500
Quote Toyota Landcruiser New Features.
Quote Toyota FSM 3FE
From these 3 bits of information I gather my 3FE dizzy will be just fine, feel free to confirm my thoughts though as this is all new
Gettin there Matt, cant wait to see this thing kill some V8's. You do realise however it will never be as grunty as the mighty 3B turbo diesel, but i guess you will just have to learn to accept that
BJ
BJ
