270 amp alternator (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Threads
351
Messages
3,756
Location
Nahant Ma.
Website
www.youtube.com
Hey fellas, I already used photomans bracket and shoehorned a 150 amp sequoia alternator under the hood, Well Im bumping up my batteries from 2 odyssey extremes total 170AH to one extreme and one battleborn lithium battery so in order to get max out of these batteries Im installing a 270Amp SBS alternator its same size as factory does not need special brackets and Ill be throwing this is as soon as it lands. Just thought Id share this with those that werent aware this was a thing.
Toyota 270 Amp XP Alternator for 1FZ FE | High Output Alternators by M2K
 
So this replaces the stock alternator with no mods requires? How much does that thing cost (I'm afraid to ask)?
 
So this replaces the stock alternator with no mods required?

No mods except upgraded wiring on both the positive and negative paths. They had some good downloads on their site.
 

Attachments

  • 359-special_ins.pdf
    272.9 KB · Views: 146
  • 359-reference.pdf
    186.6 KB · Views: 118
Well, unless you are drawing hundreds of amps from your batteries all the time (not sure what for...) then even a gazzilion amp alternator won't be doing anything much most of the time.

Or do you have a 3000W stereo booming away all the time :)

Or maybe you are winching yourself down the freeway :)

cheers,
george.
 
Let us know how it works out, in the past from other suppliers, these high output alternators don't seem to be reliable. The 150amp Tundra/Seqouia option was determined to be the most reliable bang for the buck.
 
So this replaces the stock alternator with no mods requires? How much does that thing cost (I'm afraid to ask)?
yes and it costs about the same to upgrade to the sequoia alternator bracket and all made incredibly well with denso parts but it throws juice even when idling.
 
Let us know how it works out, in the past from other suppliers, these high output alternators don't seem to be reliable. The 150amp Tundra/Seqouia option was determined to be the most reliable bang for the buck.
I will I will be carrying my OEM alt with spares now. and I have the 150 setup now.
 
Well, unless you are drawing hundreds of amps from your batteries all the time (not sure what for...) then even a gazzilion amp alternator won't be doing anything much most of the time.

Or do you have a 3000W stereo booming away all the time :)

Or maybe you are winching yourself down the freeway :)

cheers,
george.
no, no and no. I just want the batteries(lithium) charged up for real and even with 150 amp they never are.
 
No mods except upgraded wiring on both the positive and negative paths. They had some good downloads on their site.
I was reffering to no mods ie: photoman brackets etc It needs same mods you would do when upping the juice, and I already did it all except now the 150amp fuse needs to be 300amp
 
no, no and no. I just want the batteries(lithium) charged up for real and even with 150 amp they never are.

HUH??? How can the batteries not be fully charged? They can not be fully charged because a) you are drawing more current than your alternator can put back in (+ charge losses) or b) you want a big alternator...

I've run 140AH combined batteries in my patrol in oz and it had a piddly 50A alternator. Solar to top up while camped for fridge use. But the alternator never had issues keeping the batteries fully charged if I wasn't camping/stationary for extended periods (hence solar).

Anyhow, not stopping you, but just trying to understand why you think you need a 200A+ alternator and why you think even with a 150A alternator the batteries are never fully charged. Doesn't make any sense...

cheers,
george.
 
Whatever rout you go.. reliability is key! dont want to have charging issues out in the field!
 
The question of how much this cost hasen't been answered, so again, how much does it cost?
 
The question of how much this cost hasen't been answered, so again, how much does it cost?

Personally, I'm pretty skeptical about any product in which you have "inquire about this product" to view the cost. But maybe that's just me.

OP said something about it being the same as to upgrade to a Sequoia bracket but yet, I have no idea what that costs.

Still, OP has decided to test out this product and report back, so thanks for that!
 
I installed one about 2 years ago. Almost to the day. There was a couple tweaks needed to get it mounted but nothing major. I detailed them in my post here. It's been solid, no issues.
 
Last edited:
I would suggest being cautious when using some of these high amp alts. In order to get more current out of an alternator, you need to increase the number of windings inside. To increase the count without increasing the physical size of the unit, means to use smaller components. Smaller components will then heat up more when seeing current, and therefore may fail earlier, as heat is a killer of anything electronic.

The Tundra/Sequoia route is a physically larger alt, hence the different bracketry required, and is a good reliable solution because it has beefier components to handle the increased output.

Now, if you're not actually pulling much current through it, like in these old vehicles with very little electronic doodaddery, they probably won't get terribly hot and may run nicely for years. In that case the larger size probably wasn't needed anyway. If you stress it regularly however, I wouldn't expect it to last.

I would be very careful with winch pulls, as that's likely to be the greatest load they will ever see.

Just my $0.02
 
I would suggest being cautious when using some of these high amp alts. In order to get more current out of an alternator, you need to increase the number of windings inside. To increase the count without increasing the physical size of the unit, means to use smaller components. Smaller components will then heat up more when seeing current, and therefore may fail earlier, as heat is a killer of anything electronic.

The Tundra/Sequoia route is a physically larger alt, hence the different bracketry required, and is a good reliable solution because it has beefier components to handle the increased output.

Now, if you're not actually pulling much current through it, like in these old vehicles with very little electronic doodaddery, they probably won't get terribly hot and may run nicely for years. In that case the larger size probably wasn't needed anyway. If you stress it regularly however, I wouldn't expect it to last.

I would be very careful with winch pulls, as that's likely to be the greatest load they will ever see.

Just my $0.02


Just quick devil's advocate here...(humbly)

1. Take a look at my post right above yours, I posted a pic side by side. It is larger.
2. These 270amp alternators aren't no-name builds. They are Denso units.
3. I have several winch pulls on mine. I actually went larger alternator versus double battery route to better match winching. I really don't have any complaints. These alternators are beasts.
 
How are the batteries wired up? You might need to get a dc to dc charger with proper lithium profiles for the batteries you have. Or adjust whatever you have now for them.
 
Baggar11, i just went to the link you provided, 2 years ago you said you paid 630 bucks for one of these high output Alt. plus another 20 dollars shipping. I know this is a cool up grade, but that's still a lot of money, and since it been 2 years since you bought yours they may be even more expensive now.
 
Just quick devil's advocate here...(humbly)

1. Take a look at my post right above yours, I posted a pic side by side. It is larger.
2. These 270amp alternators aren't no-name builds. They are Denso units.
3. I have several winch pulls on mine. I actually went larger alternator versus double battery route to better match winching. I really don't have any complaints. These alternators are beasts.

I'll be honest and let it be known I didn't read your thread, I was basing my views on the statements in this thread saying it's a stock replacement. My bad.

What I said still stands for no-name, high output, direct replacement units, or local shops that claim to boost output when rebuilding.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom