So because i live 60 miles to your west and am not on the inside track.... this was a bent axle tube that you were able to straighten with that jig and what looks like a 30 ton jack ?
Narrowly avoided a huge catastrophic chain of events on Mitch's LX Saturday. Bought a Magnaflow Y-Pipe/Cat for his rig. All was going well until one of the manifold studs snapped flush even though we soaked for a few days and torched prior to wrenching. After a few choice words I proceeded to drill a hole down the center and try an extractor. For the first time in my life, the tool actually worked. We were preparing for the worst and luckily we were able to have it remedied in 15 minutes. We left the second cat in place but gutted it...a bit louder now but CEL has been extinguished finally. The old cats were toast and was really hoping for a "seat-of the pants" improvement but no joy...just a little smoother idle which I attribute to the ECU being in a happier state of mind.
I have read somewhere, maybe in one of your links, that the tubes themselves are quite flimsy. I was quite suprised by this as everything under there looks the beef. I would like to brace my ball ends to avoid the possibility of shearing one off on the trail. However, if what you and others are noticing is the norm, then it would appear the entire axle would need to come out of the truck and go on a jig before you welded to it.
Spent all weekend with angle grinders, cup brush, flap disk, D/A sander, and sandblaster getting the 40 tub prepped for primer. I'd post a pic if the new mobile app would let me.
Spent all weekend with angle grinders, cup brush, flap disk, D/A sander, and sandblaster getting the 40 tub prepped for primer. I'd post a pic if the new mobile app would let me.
I have read somewhere, maybe in one of your links, that the tubes themselves are quite flimsy. I was quite suprised by this as everything under there looks the beef. I would like to brace my ball ends to avoid the possibility of shearing one off on the trail. However, if what you and others are noticing is the norm, then it would appear the entire axle would need to come out of the truck and go on a jig before you welded to it.
Based on what we experienced straightening this axle you are much more likely to bend the tube than shear a ball. One of those issues where what is the weakest links.
The axle inside the tube was fine. Seal failed due to axle no longer centered. A bit of work to pull the axle off and fortunately we had a spare third carrier I was about to ship off for 5.29's but in grand scheme same work needed for trussing. In addition, unknown which axis you will need truss vs steering components interference.
We corrected one axis with jack and heat to help correct metal memory. Other axis was weld/heat with no jack pressure.
What are you guys using for your pumpkins ? Also, who are you having do your gears ? I am lining up my list for next years mods. I think a re gear maybe in my future and for sure a set of swingouts to free up space in the cargo area.
Added a little extra volume to the anemic 80's standard scooter horns via cheap Harbor Freight Air Horns. Higher pitched than I thought they would be but much better in conjunction with stock ones.
Bracket to hang it was some scrap laying around about 4-5 inches long so that it hangs just below stock horns.
Skipped adding an extra relay for short term by making a quick pigtail splitter (yellow wire) that plugged into the 2nd horn connector with a lead for 2nd horn and Wolo Bad Boy air horn as there were no specs for amperage in the packaging. Green wire is a ground.
Internet research shows that the Bad Boy is capable of drawing 16 amps so I will add the relay in case of need for prolonged attention getting situations.
What are you guys using for your pumpkins ? Also, who are you having do your gears ? I am lining up my list for next years mods. I think a re gear maybe in my future and for sure a set of swingouts to free up space in the cargo area.
@2fpower has added some 3/8 plate to bottom and front of several pumpkins to help keep from distorting that section. The collar around drain plugs is 3/8's tall. The front armor is tricky to keep from interfering with other suspension components as well.
I have read somewhere, maybe in one of your links, that the tubes themselves are quite flimsy. I was quite suprised by this as everything under there looks the beef. I would like to brace my ball ends to avoid the possibility of shearing one off on the trail. However, if what you and others are noticing is the norm, then it would appear the entire axle would need to come out of the truck and go on a jig before you welded to it.
Kelly are you about to the point where you have spare axles and spare locking thirds ? This could be the next great thing. Right up there with the loaner cylinder head.
Not the goal. I am trying to sell locking axles to cash flow these parts cars and get some non locking axles to be able to use to adapt those portal axles to fit.
Cheap insurance just in case... Doing a test fit of the Fairlead until tomorrow when I can put everything together. The first week the bumper was on the truck, someone backed into it. Looks like it bent it just a hair but doesn't have any impact on the roller.
The 60 failed inspection due to an inoperable horn. Good excuse for the classic GM 4 note horn setup. It's not insanely loud, but just really loud. All 4 fit nicely behind the grill utilizing unused threaded holes.
