200K make over

[kevin2i]

Steering Rack Question

What is the difficulty with The Rack? I see lots of warnings, but I can't find any write-up. It looks like:
1. Move stuff out of the way (oil filter/mount, maybe wheel hub, etc)
2. Unbolt steering joint, tie rod ends
3. Disconnect/drain hoses
4. Unbolt mounts
5. Slide out rack.
What is missing, or what's the part?

Everything but the rack is completed with simple hand tools, not hard at all. Basically, unbolt at two ends, part comes straight out, replace with new. definitely jobs....

 

[kevin2i]

What is missing, or what's the part?

Just downloaded the manual (2004) should be similar for a 1998. Doesn't really give a clue to why this is a b*tch. One special tool required.

On the install, I see sensor calibration - I'll have to find a 98 manual before I assume this isn't required. Manual also has the steering wheel removed to prevent spiral cable breakage - I might try taping it into position.

 

[Pink Panty Poser]

For the record I did all of these myself - except for the steering rack and pressing the lower ball joints out. Thank you very much Mr. Monkey.

I did get significant help on the steering rack from a good friend that knows a thing or two about Toyotas. And had to borrow another friend's lift to do the job. Pain in the booty. Key lesson I learned from the steering rack - never do it your self. If I ever have to replace one again - paying a dealership to do 100% of the job. It sucked ass and was not easy.

Most impressive part was my creative financing that allowed me to pay cash for all the parts and keep the princess on a limited need-to-know how much the parts cost basis. Sucessful. Enron would have been proud of my book keeping skills. It's her daily driver so I'm buying all the parts for her - so don't judge me.************

HaHa now I am the one putting the hurt on the friendship!

 

[ay nako]

nice thread, i might be doing this maintenance soon.

 

[Utahfj62]

So I have two addtional items to add to my list.

I pulled and replaced the muffler last week - put an OEM back on.
Out with the old

In with the new

I was amazed at the increase of power. I think my old muffler was so rusted and corroded that the air flow was not what it should have been. Plus the huge dent it took at some point didn't help either.

The latest 200k makeover item is two broken motor mounts. I just discovered they were broken on Saturday. I've had a strange vibration since October of last year. I was in Moab when it started. Both mounts are broken for sure. I've ordered new ones and will get them replaced in the next few weeks. I'll post up some photos when I do.

 

[Utahfj62]

Just downloaded the manual (2004) should be similar for a 1998. Doesn't really give a clue to why this is a b*tch. One special tool required.




On the install, I see sensor calibration - I'll have to find a 98 manual before I assume this isn't required. Manual also has the steering wheel removed to prevent spiral cable breakage - I might try taping it into position.


[URL="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6449181/Steering%2021.pdf"][/URL]

Reading the write up in the manual and actually doing it are two COMPLETELY different things. Try it and let us know how it went. If you are a Jedi mechanic then no biggie - for your average padawan mechanic - not such an easy task.

 

[bluecruiser]

So I have two addtional items to add to my list.

I pulled and replaced the muffler last week - put an OEM back on.
Out with the old

In with the new

I was amazed at the increase of power. I think my old muffler was so rusted and corroded that the air flow was not what it should have been. Plus the huge dent it took at some point didn't help either.

The latest 200k makeover item is two broken motor mounts. I just discovered they were broken on Saturday. I've had a strange vibration since October of last year. I was in Moab when it started. Both mounts are broken for sure. I've ordered new ones and will get them replaced in the next few weeks. I'll post up some photos when I do.

How difficult are you thinking the motor mounts will be to replace? What were the symptoms? Thanks

 

[Utahfj62]

How difficult are you thinking the motor mounts will be to replace? What were the symptoms? Thanks

Difficulty - I'm a bit nervous about changing them - but I think it won't be extremely difficult. You can access them fairly easy. It's just a little bit of work to take the engine weight off the frame and squeeze the old out and new in and not crush my hands or drop the motor on my face. I'll post up when its done.

Symptoms were a vibration under load. When driving if I encountered a hill a deep vibration would start and literally resonnate through the truck until you let off the throttle. I thought it was a CV axle or unbalanced tire. The dead giveaway was when I would come to an abrupt stop I would feel and hear a pronounced metal on metal "THUNK" then when I would accelerate out of the stop the same metal on metal "THUNK" would go the other way.It took time for this to start to happen, after a few months of the vibration starting. The "THUNK" would only occur when stopping and starting - not side to side and not turning. I searched for ever and found a "witness" mark on the mounts where the whole drive train has been shifting forward and backward about 1 -2 inches. The motor mounts are also off center from the brackets and if you put a pry bar into the mount and lift - the entire motor moves up. It shouldn't. It should be attached to the frame.

 

[RobRed]

Easy to do.

 

[Pink Panty Poser]

Difficulty - I'm a bit nervous about changing them - but I think it won't be extremely difficult. You can access them fairly easy. It's just a little bit of work to take the engine weight off the frame and squeeze the old out and new in and not crush my hands or drop the motor on my face. I'll post up when its done.

Symptoms were a vibration under load. When driving if I encountered a hill a deep vibration would start and literally resonnate through the truck until you let off the throttle. I thought it was a CV axle or unbalanced tire. The dead giveaway was when I would come to an abrupt stop I would feel and hear a pronounced metal on metal "THUNK" then when I would accelerate out of the stop the same metal on metal "THUNK" would go the other way.It took time for this to start to happen, after a few months of the vibration starting. The "THUNK" would only occur when stopping and starting - not side to side and not turning. I searched for ever and found a "witness" mark on the mounts where the whole drive train has been shifting forward and backward about 1 -2 inches. The motor mounts are also off center from the brackets and if you put a pry bar into the mount and lift - the entire motor moves up. It shouldn't. It should be attached to the frame.

Im not sure a motor to the face would hurt your looks any! Cant wait for the project day. Ill bring the Mt. Dew!

 

[Utahfj62]

Motor Mounts = Toast

Got around to swapping the motor mounts out. It wasn't very hard to do, especially after soaking them in PB blaster. The old mounts were severely cracked and had 3-4 inches of play in them. After swapping them out - we drove to the Oregon coast and back from Utah - 2,000 miles. The difference in vibration in the truck is amazing. So much quieter. Well worth the time and money to do.

Old and new so you can compare the difference in the two. Notice the height difference.

Right side mount. The rubber was also compressed and just smushed to death along with the plate being separated from the rubber.

Left side mount

 

[2000UZJ]

Got around to swapping the motor mounts out. It wasn't very hard to do, especially after soaking them in PB blaster. The old mounts were severly cracked and had 3-4 inches of play in them. After swapping them out - we drove to Oregon and back from Utah - 2,000 miles. The difference in vibration in the truck is amazing. So much quieter. Well worth the time and money to do.

Old and new so you can compare the difference in the two. Notice the height difference.

Right side mount. The rubber was also compressed and just smushed to death along with the plate being separated from the rubber.

Left side mount

I think I'm due for this as well. Mine has tremendous bass while sitting at a stop light, to the point where it's unbearable and have to push it into neutral. Do you think this would fix that? I haven't a clue what is causing this.

 

[petrotk40]

I think I'm due for this as well. Mine has tremendous bass while sitting at a stop light, to the point where it's unbearable and have to push it into neutral. Do you think this would fix that? I haven't a clue what is causing this.

I have this same issue. I spent an hour the other night trying to track it down. It only happens when the ac compressor is engaged. It's not the cat heat shields. It's either the compressor itself or something I just can't get to... Super frustrating.

 

[phsycle]

How many mounts are there? I need to do this, I think. Wish I could have come over to watch.

 

[bluecruiser]

Awesome job on this...is that an OEM muffler? Also, can you give part numbers for the motor mounts? I am have similar vibes on hills, etc. I also have very similar mileage...doing these updates is still cheaper than a car payment. Thanks again for taking the time to take pictures and document what you are doing....

 

[Utahfj62]

I had serious vibration under-load. When I laid into the throttle the entire truck would vibrate. I thought it was the front end - but it was the mounts. My truck drives so much quieter now. Incredible. The motor was vibrating through the frame into the entire truck. 200UZJ hard to say if it would help yours - I'm not a cruiser doctor but for about $250 bucks and a $5 can of PB blaster it was a huge improvement, one I'm glad I did.

pshycle - THere are two side mounts and one rear. The rear doesn't move as much and mine appeared to be in good shape still. The two side mounts are what I changed.

Bluecruiser - There are two different styles of motor mounts one for 1998 and one for 1999 and up BUT for the 98 there are two different types depending upon the month of the build in 98. Mine was one of the early - built in April of 98. Talk to your reputable Toyota part guy to get what you need exactly. And yes OEM Muffler. I like OEM where possible and practical.

12361 INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT

• 12361-50120 (01/1998 - 09/1998)
• 12361-50121 (10/1998 - 07/2002)

 

[bluecruiser]

Thanks for the info. I will check with parts dept for what one's I would need. I would think mileage alone would make changing them out create some type of improvement.

 

[packetstormin]

This particular project looks spendy...

So I have two addtional items to add to my list.

I pulled and replaced the muffler last week - put an OEM back on.
Out with the old

In with the new

I was amazed at the increase of power. I think my old muffler was so rusted and corroded that the air flow was not what it should have been. Plus the huge dent it took at some point didn't help either.

The latest 200k makeover item is two broken motor mounts. I just discovered they were broken on Saturday. I've had a strange vibration since October of last year. I was in Moab when it started. Both mounts are broken for sure. I've ordered new ones and will get them replaced in the next few weeks. I'll post up some photos when I do.

 

[Utahfj62]

This particular project looks spendy...

Only about $100 bucks more than aftermarket options I considered and it came with a lifetime warranty and peace of mind of Toyota quality.

 

[Bawlz]

I think I'm due for this as well. Mine has tremendous bass while sitting at a stop light, to the point where it's unbearable and have to push it into neutral. Do you think this would fix that? I haven't a clue what is causing this.

I have this same issue. I spent an hour the other night trying to track it down. It only happens when the ac compressor is engaged. It's not the cat heat shields. It's either the compressor itself or something I just can't get to... Super frustrating.

Sounds a bit like this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/344210-exhaust-booming-idle.html

Part of the resolution in the TSB is replacing the engine mounts. I believe it calls for softer ones in the TSB, but if yours are just shot, then new regular ones should suffice.

I did a bunch of research on this issue when I looked at an '06 I considered buying that had a bit of the bass at idle in gear. Actually, my '07 has it slightly too, it goes away when the A/C compressor kicks on.