200K make over

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Bawlz said:
Sounds a bit like this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/344210-exhaust-booming-idle.html

Part of the resolution in the TSB is replacing the engine mounts. I believe it calls for softer ones in the TSB, but if yours are just shot, then new regular ones should suffice.

I did a bunch of research on this issue when I looked at an '06 I considered buying that had a bit of the bass at idle in gear. Actually, my '07 has it slightly too, it goes away when the A/C compressor kicks on.
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That's funny yours goes away when compressor on... it must just be a resonant frequency. Makes me feel better that it's probably not the compressor. It's definitely coming from inside the engine bay. I might have to get new motor mounts and see what happens. I would think I'd have vibration issues under load as well if it were motor mount. Maybe the buzzing at idle is just an early warning sign?



Utahfj62, did you have to lift the engine to get the mounts out?
 
hoser said:
Does the lifetime warranty require it to be installed by the dealer?
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Nope. Just the receipt from the local Toyota dealer showing I bought it. At least this is what my local dealership/part supplier said.

Petrok40 - yes of course you have to lift the engine to remove the mounts - otherwise you couldn't get them out. I put a 2x6 under the oil pan and lifted it from there. Undo everything, wiggle the mounts out - switch out the mount - wiggle them back in, drop motor and bolt it back up. 6 bolts each side plus the big bolt on the mount itself. Hardest part it wiggling the mounts out and back in. Not much clearance - you just have to keep trying until it works.
 
petrotk40 said:
That's funny yours goes away when compressor on... it must just be a resonant frequency. Makes me feel better that it's probably not the compressor. It's definitely coming from inside the engine bay. I might have to get new motor mounts and see what happens. I would think I'd have vibration issues under load as well if it were motor mount. Maybe the buzzing at idle is just an early warning sign?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's interesting, mine happens when the idle is at its lowest, and when the A/C kicks on, the idle gets bumped up slightly, then the slight vibration goes away. Does your compressor draw the idle down slightly when it kicks on?

Yep, it's a resonant frequency, in the '06 I test drove with the issue, you could feel a vibration through the steering wheel, but even though my '07 does it a bit, I can't really feel anything through the wheel. Other parts of the TSB are to hang a larger weight from the frame rail, and loosen the exhaust bolts then re-tighten in a specific order.

When doing research, a few people said they had no issue at all until 80-90-100k mi., perhaps it is a warning sign, seems the mounts may age/sag a bit, and vibration is transferred differently.
 
Utahfj62 said:
Got around to swapping the motor mounts out. It wasn't very hard to do, especially after soaking them in PB blaster. The old mounts were severely cracked and had 3-4 inches of play in them. After swapping them out - we drove to the Oregon coast and back from Utah - 2,000 miles. The difference in vibration in the truck is amazing. So much quieter. Well worth the time and money to do.

Old and new so you can compare the difference in the two. Notice the height difference.

Right side mount. The rubber was also compressed and just smushed to death along with the plate being separated from the rubber.

Left side mount
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anything special to remove and replace? did you need to jack the engine to support it or just as easy as unbolting the old and slipping in the new?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
agaisin said:
anything special to remove and replace? did you need to jack the engine to support it or just as easy as unbolting the old and slipping in the new?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

See two posts up...
 
Bawlz said:
Yeah, that's interesting, mine happens when the idle is at its lowest, and when the A/C kicks on, the idle gets bumped up slightly, then the slight vibration goes away. Does your compressor draw the idle down slightly when it kicks on?
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I think it does lower it actually. I know when I put it in neutral the rpm's kick up and it stops vibrating.
 
Stock LX here with 75k and mine vibrates like crazy with the ac off and sitting at a stop in drive. Might try this soon.
 
agaisin said:
anything special to remove and replace? did you need to jack the engine to support it or just as easy as unbolting the old and slipping in the new?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

Only tools I used
Wobbly Socket
Universal Joint Socket
LONG extention bar 12 or 18 inches
Floor jack
2x6 piece of wood
14mm
12mm
wratcheting socket wrench

I did use an impact wrench only on the big bolt that holds the mounts together. I wouldn't recommend using one on any of the other bolts. You break one off - you are screwed trying to tap and drill in that location. Just take your time.
 
Utahfj62 said:
Only tools I used
Wobbly Socket
Universal Joint Socket
LONG extention bar 12 or 18 inches
Floor jack
2x6 piece of wood
14mm
12mm
wratcheting socket wrench

I did use an impact wrench only on the big bolt that holds the mounts together. I wouldn't recommend using one on any of the other bolts. You break one off - you are screwed trying to tap and drill in that location. Just take your time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the additional info. So obviously you did this successfully but I have to admit jacking up (supporting the weight of) our big honkin V8 by what would seem like a flimsy oil pan seems scary. Is this how others do it as well?

I actually have the parts for this already and it's on my todo list. When I looked in the FSM the other day I think it talked about using an engine hoist.

Just wondering if jacking up by oil pan is a safe and accepted way for DIYrs to replace these mounts. Last thing I want is to crush/collapse the pan or worse...

Thanks!
 
Not too sure that 2x4 would be ideal, but I replaced the engine mounts on a W129 Benz V12 [ = f'ing heavy!] using a length of 2 x 8 to spread the load across the pan. No problems. The FSM will never even suggest it, but its done every day and safe IF you are careful. Use a floor jack to raise the engine, then place a couple of jackstands for security.
 
Another item to look at is the power steering reservoir. I was checking my fluid and it smelt burnt. So I drained, flushed it, and then put new fluid in it.
 
Thanks for sharing. I am planning to replace shocks and bushings since mine has 208K, but like to spread them out so the cost isnt too bad. If I spread these out ( front and rear shocks, control arms, sway bar bushings etc), which ones will require alignment (assuming the car already has good alignment)? It is currently running straight, and tires are wearing evenly. I am hoping I can group these work so I do not need to get several alignment.

Thanks
Chris
 
Excellent thread. I used to be a bike mechanic and I understand basic wrenching pretty well. But the finer points of cars still elude me, and especially when you all use English terms that will of course be something different in my language....

I crawled under my 2005, 255K kilometers 100-series, cleaned off all the caked on desert dust (Middle East car, now in EU) and found to my horror numerous mounts/bushings/arms/bars that were shot. Just about every piece of metal held in place by a rubber ring with a bolt through it is dried, cracked, and off centered. Seriously.

My question: how do I know the names of the parts because I want to switch out as many parts as possible myself to save cost. For example, one of the bushings/mounts mentioned here that was called Front Diff carrier bushing in another thread and quoted at around 125 over there, costs well over double that(!) in the EU. It looks suspiciously like the front axle support mentioned in this thread, BTW.

If I can get the right part names/part numbers, I can source them elsewhere (cheaper?) and install them myself. The bars running in a pair, horizontally in the rear, seem an easy fix. I think they are called "stabiliser bars" here.
 
feddomw said:
If I can get the right part names/part numbers, I can source them elsewhere (cheaper?) and install them myself. The bars running in a pair, horizontally in the rear, seem an easy fix. I think they are called "stabiliser bars" here.
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What I do is go to the toyota dealership and get a quote, you will be able to pick the parts of there diagrams, the quote will give you the part numbers and names for all the parts specific to your trucks age/model. I then try and source them cheaper elsewhere.
 
Utahfj62 said:
Everything I have done to the truck in the past two years (not including tires) probablly about $1500 - $2000 give or take. Well worth it in my mind. Truck is paid off - maintenance here and there will keep it running safe and clean for years to come.

Lower rears - $300 Slee
Upper rears - $250 OEM
CV Axles - $200 - OEM Rebuilt
Driveshaft balance $40
U joints - $160 OEM
Upper Front Control arms - $600 OEM
Lower Ball joints $100 - Spicer
Steering Rack - $400 OEM
Sway Arm bushings - $50 OEM
New Old Man Emu Shocks - $450
Added May 2012
OEM Muffler $400
(2) Front Engine Mounts $250
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What made you decide between Slee and OEM on the different parts? And did the front lower control arms not need replacing? Thanks
 
My 2005 with 147,000 miles doesn't have any clunks and drives like it's new put in a old man emu 2 inch lift at 120,000 miles I find if every oil change agrees the entire driveshaft bit runs smooth as butter my rigs never been off Road could make a difference just taking it to the mall and back
 
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