2006 LX470 Purchase Advice

Buy or Pass?

  • Buy

    Votes: 5 33.3%
  • Pass

    Votes: 10 66.7%

  • Total voters
    15
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
55
Location
21211
Hi, all!

This is my first post, so if I am posting in the wrong spot, I apologize. Well, I'm gonna try and keep it short and to the point. I'm in the market for a 06-07 Lexus LX470 with less than 150k miles. I am completely green (new) when it comes to these vehicles. I've browsed many threads in regards to purchasing one of these vehicles and would just like to have someone else's prospective on this purchase.

----------------------------------------------------------
Asking Price: $18,998

Out the Door Price: $17,500 (Trading in a 2016 Scion IM; Getting $8,000 for trade in, I owe about $6,000 on it)

Year: 2006

Make: Lexus

Model: LX470

Color: Sand Dollar Pearl with Ivory Interior

Mileage: 132K

Owners: 2

Title Status: Clean Title, no accidents

Pre-purchase Inspection: Paid another well rated local shop to inspect vehicle

Location of Ownership: NY

Dealers Location: PA

My Location: Baltimore MD

Maintenance Records: Full serviced at Lexus dealership(s) with extensive records (I put the VIN into the Lexus portal to pull up all the service records)

Main Preventive Maintenance: Timing belt and water pump replaced at 118K miles. Typical oil changes and brake changes (pads, rotors, etc), coolant flushes, etc.

Concerned Maintenance Items:

- AC:
Seems the vehicle was brought in at 119K miles with the AC blowing warm, dealer found it was low on refrigerant (with only .5lbs in system.) They did leak test, didn't see anything and just refilled it and that was it. Then at 125k Miles it was brought back in due to blowing warm again. Lexus stated "Rear AC Evaporator and AC Suction Lines" needed replacing at a cost of $2,900... owner declined.

I had the pre-purchase shop inspect issue and they said the compressor never kicked on (Signs of low refrigerant.) I informed the dealer I'm purchasing it from and they sent it to another shop that had the A/C equipment to diagnose the issue. They replaced the Evaporator core located behind the dash. At the end of the day, I know this is a common issue and might just cap off the rear AC lines.

- Catalytic Converter: Seems that check engine light was on for CC at 118k miles when it got state inspected, can't tell via records if it got replaced or the O2 sensor did.

I had the pre-purchase shop inspect issue and they said it all looked fine and would pass state inspection. They said O2 Sensors look new and the check engine light wasn't on nor were there any codes

- AHC: All seems to be functional, i'm just worried about it because it's an expensive system. I do have TechStream loaded up and will be doing a few checks when I see the vehicle in person this weekend. ~Eventually will be getting a 2 inch lift, so i just need this system to get by until then.

- Rust: Given that this is a New York truck, I am worried about rust but being that I'm originally from FL, I don't know what is acceptable and what isn't. It doesn't look to bad, mostly surface rust? I was quoted at $800 to have a shop completely clean and undercoat it. Any input would be great!

With all that said, I think it's a solid rig at a decent price. I will bring up the AC issue again to the dealership I am purchasing it from and see if they could warranty the whole AC system for like 1 year or 5k miles (I work from home so I don't drive much.)

Anyways, on to the good parts, the pictures! Let me know your opinions; Buy or Pass??

Exterior Photos:
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3581908_x640_05.jpg

3581908_x640_06.jpg

3581908_x640_03.jpg

3581908_x640_07.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
My LC/LX knowledge is quite limited compared to many of the forum members, but perhaps I can make up for that with more general car buying knowledge. Is there a particular reason you want to buy a dealer?

It seems to me you are paying a premium for a vehicle which doesn't seem to have any special qualities (southern/southwestern car, one owner, dealer maintained, evidence of mostly highway miles, etc.), and that at a time when buyer's dollars should be able to stretch further.

Have you input the VIN it on the Lexus owner's site to see the maintenance/repair history?
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
55
Location
21211
My LC/LX knowledge is quite limited compared to many of the forum members, but perhaps I can make up for that with more general car buying knowledge. Is there a particular reason you want to buy a dealer?

It seems to me you are paying a premium for a vehicle which doesn't seem to have any special qualities (southern/southwestern car, one owner, dealer maintained, evidence of mostly highway miles, etc.), and that at a time when buyer's dollars should be able to stretch further.

Have you input the VIN it on the Lexus owner's site to see the maintenance/repair history?
Well, I am using a dealer so that I can trade in my current vehicle and get the tax break on the purchase price of the LX. As mentioned in my post, I did input the VIN on the Lexus site. It has been serviced mainly at one Lexus dealership and has extensive records of maintenance. Thanks for your input.
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Ah, yeah if you're set on trading in that makes the calculus much simpler, if not any better for your wallet. I doubt you'll be seeing many dream cars, just local trade ins and auction buys. I would not expect to see much better than this one then.

Before you buy it make sure to test the brake pump with the pedal pump test, just because it would be awful if that went out on you and could have been avoided.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
55
Location
21211
Ah, yeah if you're set on trading in that makes the calculus much simpler, if not any better for your wallet. I doubt you'll be seeing many dream cars, just local trade ins and auction buys. I would not expect to see much better than this one then.

Before you buy it make sure to test the brake pump with the pedal pump test, just because it would be awful if that went out on you and could have been avoided.
Yea, that's what I figured!

Most definitely, that is on the list of things to test in person! As well as the AHC graduation test. Thanks again.
 

D21FJ60

It's not an addiction...I don't go to meetings.
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
1,361
Location
Gainesville, VA
 
 
In my experience that frame looks very clean for an ny/pa frame.
X2 check the brake and see if the heater hose t’s have been done.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
55
Location
21211
In my experience that frame looks very clean for an ny/pa frame.
X2 check the brake and see if the heater hose t’s have been done.
Thanks for the reassurance on the rust... I'll check if the t's have been replaced!
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
1,008
Location
Southern California.
 
 
Almost 20k??? oh my...

save a few more pennies and get a 200 series, at 25k-30k you're looking at very nice lx570s in the 100-125k mile range. LCs harder to find, but LX have lots of good deals that come up.

For 100 series sticking to price range of 10k or so provides the best bang for buck, yeah you can pay up to 20k but those later model 100s just seem over priced for what you get, better put that extra towards a newer gen.

just my opinion of course.

good luck.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
55
Location
21211
Almost 20k??? oh my...

save a few more pennies and get a 200 series, at 25k-30k you're looking at very nice lx570s in the 100-125k mile range. LCs harder to find, but LX have lots of good deals that come up.

For 100 series sticking to price range of 10k or so provides the best bang for buck, yeah you can pay up to 20k but those later model 100s just seem over priced for what you get, better put that extra towards a newer gen.

just my opinion of course.

good luck.
I know, it's definitely steep. I've considered the 200s but I do love the boxy look of the 100s. Plus, I really don't want to go over $18k with my next vehicle.

To be honest tho, the other vehicle in the running is a 2014-15 Honda Pilot.
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Clearwater FLorida
I wouldn’t pay that much for an 06 regardless if you need a trade in. These things goes forever. Don’t be stuck in the less mileage mentality. You’re going to end up spending a good amount of dough to upgrade it. Spend less on the frame and more on upgrades.
 

jlm43

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
541
 
 
$19,500 is definitely a premium price but you have to consider all the factors.
1) Maintenance is up to date and it's been well taken care of.
2) It is local to you so you won't have to spend $1,000 give or take on airfare and gas to pick one up out of state.
3) Financially, it's significantly easier to trade yours in. Despite what others may say, paying extra for convenience is okay.
4) Rust is there but it's not bad considering the location and it can be treated.
5) The interior is extremely clean which is getting harder and harder to find, even in low mileage cars.
6) AC system. It seems that the dealer tried to do the right thing and get it fixed. A short term warranty on the system like you mentioned would be good to have. However, you may want to see if the lines are corroded and how bad the surrounding parts are if the issue returns.

Overall I'd say try to get it for less if you can. Otherwise, If you're comfortable with the price, it's not a bad deal at all and grab it. You will be paying a premium but if you find one for $15k, you may still be at that price once you get it home and get the maintenance up to par.

Don't get to wrapped up in the 100 vs 200 debate. I looked at some 200's (LC and LX) after my wife got her GX. The new features of her GX are nice and I was drinking the "new is good" kool-aid. Yes, the 200 is an upgrade in every way as some people say. But I still prefer driving my 100 as it's just a better fit for me. Personal preference is a big part to the equation.
 

jlm43

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
541
 
 
Spend less on the frame and more on upgrades.
This one comment as it is, isn't really good advice. It makes me think of the 18 year old that has $4k into a lift, rims and tires on a $2k pick up with alignment issues (a common sight where I live). You should always spend more on the base vehicle as the upgrades mean nothing if the rig is a POS and is constantly breaking down. Yes these go forever, but with all things being equal, a 130k mile rig will go longer than a 230k mile one. I put about 20k miles on my 2005 before spending any significant money on upgrades. I wanted to make sure the truck had what it needed before I got what I wanted. If that makes sense.
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Clearwater FLorida
i'm not telling him to buy a beat up rusty ole truck; Plenty of 100 models available under 10k with full maintenance that just so happens to have high mileage.
I paid 9900 for my 2006 LX470 with 205k miles last year; one owner southern truck. They had already done the tb/wp and swap all fluids along with spark plugs. They are out there. Spending 18k is creeping towards 2008/2009 lx570 territory.

that extra 8-9k can go A LONG ways in OEM upgrades. I see no difference in a 200k mile truck and a 100k mile truck if maintenance are equal.
 
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