2000 lx470 Nakamichi stereo replacement wiring questions

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Jun 9, 2016
Messages
281
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Philadelphia
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Does anyone have any idea what pin size could be used to solder on to the aftermarket source create an adapter harness? I dont want to chop off the factory one since id be soldering the wires anyway, id rather to that on the bench.

Can i splice the antenna and amp + to the same remote turn on wire out of after market?

What does the "Beep" tap into aftermarket side

What does the "Amp Mute" tap into aftermarket side?
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
101
Location
98275
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Does anyone have any idea what pin size could be used to solder on to the aftermarket source create an adapter harness? I dont want to chop off the factory one since id be soldering the wires anyway, id rather to that on the bench.

Can i splice the antenna and amp + to the same remote turn on wire out of after market?

What does the "Beep" tap into aftermarket side

What does the "Amp Mute" tap into aftermarket side?
nothing, i just installed a kenwood dnx733s into my 2000 lx470 and those wires were unused as well, everything in the h/u works as it should and i haven't noticed any features not working or issues with other system components....

that said the previous owner had installed an aftermarket h/u in my truck at one point and reverted it back to stock before my purchase, for all i know i may not have the stock amp in there and those features such as beep and amp mute may relate to features that only work between the factory h/u and factory amp....

of the 5-6 people i talked to about this install none of them ended up using those wires...nobody is complaining of any issues that i know of.
 
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Messages
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nothing, i just installed a kenwood dnx733s into my 2000 lx470 and those wires were unused as well, everything in the h/u works as it should and i haven't noticed any features not working or issues with other system components....

that said the previous owner had installed an aftermarket h/u in my truck at one point and reverted it back to stock before my purchase, for all i know i may not have the stock amp in there and those features such as beep and amp mute may relate to features that only work between the factory h/u and factory amp....

of the 5-6 people i talked to about this install none of them ended up using those wires...nobody is complaining of any issues that i know of.
Nice, thanks.

Did you jumper the antenna motor and amp turn on together?

Now its just a matter of getting the correct push pin size to make my own harness. I'm sure i could just get an assorted pack from somewhere and experiment but working time is sparse so i like to have everything i need lined up before hand.
 
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Messages
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Nice, thanks.

Did you jumper the antenna motor and amp turn on together?

Now its just a matter of getting the correct push pin size to make my own harness. I'm sure i could just get an assorted pack from somewhere and experiment but working time is sparse so i like to have everything i need lined up before hand.
g, you'd simply have to buy the female plug and run the pins into it, the size is determined by the plug...

i couldn't tell the pin size as i just cut the factory plug off since it had already been cut before i bought the vehicle...the PO did a pretty terrible job using a fxxx ton of butt connectors to go back to the factory plug, so i snipped it off and just soldered and wrapped all of the joints into the kenwood plug...i don't plan on selling this, ever...

as for jumping the ant and amp on, i don't think i did, if i remember correctly the ant and amp on signals each have thier own feed so there was no need to do that, the only jumpers i made was putting in the parking brake bypass..

gimme a bit, im trying to find the wiring diagram i used, i have 4-5 of the printed out and with me when i was doing the install, only one of them turned out to be on point....funnily enough it was from some company's page and not any of the forum or blog posts...that was just my experience.... i'll try to link you to all of the resources i used.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
101
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98275
"
1998-2000 Models: Amp remote signal

The factory amp needs to be kicked on when the head unit is turned on. This is because the amp goes into a “cold” mode when the car is turned off so not to drain the car’s battery. The Red/Black/Single-stripe wire is the Amp-REM wire. If your aftermarket unit is missing a matching wire, you can jumper the vehicle’s ACC wire to the factory amp’s REM (amp remote +) wire for this effect. When the ignition is turned and the key goes through OFF -> ACC -> ON, the REM wire is supplied with 12V just on the ACC position going into “warm” mode. In this mode, the amp is ready to go “hot” when there is a signal from the stereo head unit. When you turn off the car, the key goes through the ON -> ACC -> OFF positions, signaling the amp to go back to “cold”. (Thanks BH)"

taken from here,
LX470: Aftermarket Stereo Install – CeliaMania


also use this.

2000 Lexus LX470 Car Stereo Wire Colors

more in detail than others.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
281
Location
Philadelphia
g, you'd simply have to buy the female plug and run the pins into it, the size is determined by the plug...

i couldn't tell the pin size as i just cut the factory plug off since it had already been cut before i bought the vehicle...the PO did a pretty terrible job using a **** ton of butt connectors to go back to the factory plug, so i snipped it off and just soldered and wrapped all of the joints into the kenwood plug...i don't plan on selling this, ever...

as for jumping the ant and amp on, i don't think i did, if i remember correctly the ant and amp on signals each have thier own feed so there was no need to do that, the only jumpers i made was putting in the parking brake bypass..

gimme a bit, im trying to find the wiring diagram i used, i have 4-5 of the printed out and with me when i was doing the install, only one of them turned out to be on point....funnily enough it was from some company's page and not any of the forum or blog posts...that was just my experience.... i'll try to link you to all of the resources i used.

The antenna and amp have the own wires vehicle side but the HU will only have one remote on wire. So im thinking i need to splice any and amp together to both be powered by the single remote wire.

What about mounting bracket? did you use the expensive beatsonic one or the cheap ebay one that doesnt seem to come with mounting tabs.
 
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i really can't help with pin size, i'm really an idiot when it comes to this electrical stuff...i'm a ME, i avoided the electrical side of things for a reason, all i know is i used the sources above and it came out good and since we both have 2000's and not 2001's or 99's i thought i could be of some help through my experience instead of any actual knowledge of these things, lol

i hope it helps in some shape or form.
 
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Messages
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The antenna and amp have the own wires vehicle side but the HU will only have one remote on wire. So im thinking i need to splice any and amp together to both be powered by the single remote wire.

What about mounting bracket? did you use the expensive beatsonic one or the cheap ebay one that doesnt seem to come with mounting tabs.
i just bought the face plate/trim piece off of ebay for $26, it appears to be the same excat one and the source i used, used the same stock image...so im fairly confident it's the same one from beatsonic just at half the price...

as for the brackets, i just reused the factory ones, the only draw back was i was only able to use 3 of the 4 mounting holes on either side due to them not lining up perfectly, 3 bolts points should really be as good as 4 and if your not lazy you could totally open up one of the holes on the bracket to get the clearance you need for the last bolt...i'm in washington state, it's still pissing rain down on me here, i couldn't be bothered to do that on mine.

i used nothing from beatsonic simply because they want WAY to much money for what it is they are selling....i probably would have bought their kit if it was in the 40-50 range and not $120 for two bits of folded metal and a piece of plastic, lol, just my opinion.
 

PabloCruise

 
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
18,282
Location
Northern Colorado
"
1998-2000 Models: Amp remote signal

The factory amp needs to be kicked on when the head unit is turned on. This is because the amp goes into a “cold” mode when the car is turned off so not to drain the car’s battery. The Red/Black/Single-stripe wire is the Amp-REM wire. If your aftermarket unit is missing a matching wire, you can jumper the vehicle’s ACC wire to the factory amp’s REM (amp remote +) wire for this effect. When the ignition is turned and the key goes through OFF -> ACC -> ON, the REM wire is supplied with 12V just on the ACC position going into “warm” mode. In this mode, the amp is ready to go “hot” when there is a signal from the stereo head unit. When you turn off the car, the key goes through the ON -> ACC -> OFF positions, signaling the amp to go back to “cold”. (Thanks BH)"

taken from here,
LX470: Aftermarket Stereo Install – CeliaMania


also use this.

2000 Lexus LX470 Car Stereo Wire Colors

more in detail than others.
Good resources!
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
281
Location
Philadelphia
another question i see around and am getting conflicting info about (although i have an opinion on) is weather you use the speaker out wires from the new HU or the preamp low voltage outputs converted into standard wires.

Which did you use?
 
Joined
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Messages
101
Location
98275
another question i see around and am getting conflicting info about (although i have an opinion on) is weather you use the speaker out wires from the new HU or the preamp low voltage outputs converted into standard wires.

Which did you use?
I used all of the factory wiring and the factory amp, i do however have some white noise coming through the speakers when there is no audio coming through them, it's a low and quite static like sound, doesn't increase and becomes unnoticeable once you turn some music on, road noise also drowns it out...very faint static.

i suspect this is due to the amp, so im either going to test the lines and throw in a group loop isolator or just buy a new amp, which i suspect will solve the problem....that doesn't really even seem like a problem, more like an annoyance that i only notice on occasion...

it's a new truck to me so i feel like i have more pressing things than chasing down something that's this passive/unnoticeable...

you could likely convert the wires and avoid this issue...at least that is my thinking, i really didn't want to rip everything apart to run wires i didn't feel like i need to, i'd rather just replace components, i mean even though this stock system was pretty tits back in the day, that was still back in the day, everything is old and weak from nothing more than age at the very least...i plan on replacing the whole system eventually, but as it stands i have the HU in there and working, sounds great when it's on and working...and really, i'm trying to make it clear, the white noise issue, is really a non-issue in my mind for the most part..it's not a bother, so i don;t mind leaving it like that for a few months while i get an amp and speaker money together.

i know that's long and drawn out, but should be clear about what i did, the results and the outcome..i'm here if you have any other questions about what i did and what happened as a result, you can make your own choices from there, lol...i could try and get some audio for you later today if you'd like, though i have no clue as how to get it to you.
 
Joined
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Messages
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I used all of the factory wiring and the factory amp, i do however have some white noise coming through the speakers when there is no audio coming through them, it's a low and quite static like sound, doesn't increase and becomes unnoticeable once you turn some music on, road noise also drowns it out...very faint static.

i suspect this is due to the amp, so im either going to test the lines and throw in a group loop isolator or just buy a new amp, which i suspect will solve the problem....that doesn't really even seem like a problem, more like an annoyance that i only notice on occasion...

it's a new truck to me so i feel like i have more pressing things than chasing down something that's this passive/unnoticeable...

you could likely convert the wires and avoid this issue...at least that is my thinking, i really didn't want to rip everything apart to run wires i didn't feel like i need to, i'd rather just replace components, i mean even though this stock system was pretty tits back in the day, that was still back in the day, everything is old and weak from nothing more than age at the very least...i plan on replacing the whole system eventually, but as it stands i have the HU in there and working, sounds great when it's on and working...and really, i'm trying to make it clear, the white noise issue, is really a non-issue in my mind for the most part..it's not a bother, so i don;t mind leaving it like that for a few months while i get an amp and speaker money together.

i know that's long and drawn out, but should be clear about what i did, the results and the outcome..i'm here if you have any other questions about what i did and what happened as a result, you can make your own choices from there, lol...i could try and get some audio for you later today if you'd like, though i have no clue as how to get it to you.
I think you misinterpreted the question, it was focused on the HU side. did you you the wires from the HU pig tail to connect to the vehicle side speaker wires or did you use the HU preamp out with converters to connect to the vehicle side speaker wires
 
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Messages
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I think you misinterpreted the question, it was focused on the HU side. did you you the wires from the HU pig tail to connect to the vehicle side speaker wires or did you use the HU preamp out with converters to connect to the vehicle side speaker wires
just pig tailed everything. straight from the HU's wiring harness straight into the factory wiring behind the dash.

sorry if misunderstood, had a late morning and wasn't quite a awake with the last post.
 

PabloCruise

 
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
18,282
Location
Northern Colorado
"
1998-2000 Models: Amp remote signal

The factory amp needs to be kicked on when the head unit is turned on. This is because the amp goes into a “cold” mode when the car is turned off so not to drain the car’s battery. The Red/Black/Single-stripe wire is the Amp-REM wire. If your aftermarket unit is missing a matching wire, you can jumper the vehicle’s ACC wire to the factory amp’s REM (amp remote +) wire for this effect. When the ignition is turned and the key goes through OFF -> ACC -> ON, the REM wire is supplied with 12V just on the ACC position going into “warm” mode. In this mode, the amp is ready to go “hot” when there is a signal from the stereo head unit. When you turn off the car, the key goes through the ON -> ACC -> OFF positions, signaling the amp to go back to “cold”. (Thanks BH)"

taken from here,
LX470: Aftermarket Stereo Install – CeliaMania


also use this.

2000 Lexus LX470 Car Stereo Wire Colors

more in detail than others.
So for '98 to '00, we we can use that red/black/single-stripe wire and not worry about the digital signal, eh?
 

PabloCruise

 
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
18,282
Location
Northern Colorado
I used all of the factory wiring and the factory amp, i do however have some white noise coming through the speakers when there is no audio coming through them, it's a low and quite static like sound, doesn't increase and becomes unnoticeable once you turn some music on, road noise also drowns it out...very faint static.

i suspect this is due to the amp, so im either going to test the lines and throw in a group loop isolator or just buy a new amp, which i suspect will solve the problem....that doesn't really even seem like a problem, more like an annoyance that i only notice on occasion...

it's a new truck to me so i feel like i have more pressing things than chasing down something that's this passive/unnoticeable...

you could likely convert the wires and avoid this issue...at least that is my thinking, i really didn't want to rip everything apart to run wires i didn't feel like i need to, i'd rather just replace components, i mean even though this stock system was pretty tits back in the day, that was still back in the day, everything is old and weak from nothing more than age at the very least...i plan on replacing the whole system eventually, but as it stands i have the HU in there and working, sounds great when it's on and working...and really, i'm trying to make it clear, the white noise issue, is really a non-issue in my mind for the most part..it's not a bother, so i don;t mind leaving it like that for a few months while i get an amp and speaker money together.

i know that's long and drawn out, but should be clear about what i did, the results and the outcome..i'm here if you have any other questions about what i did and what happened as a result, you can make your own choices from there, lol...i could try and get some audio for you later today if you'd like, though i have no clue as how to get it to you.
Did you ever do anything about the noise? Ground loop isolator or new amp?
 

Moore80

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May 6, 2018
Messages
148
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Has anyone figured out how to fully eliminate the ground feedback? I've tried two different loop isolators and I still get some feedback.
 
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