200 Series Rear Exit/Handle Kit Update

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Got mine today already installed. Works great as advertised, only issue was old guy w fat fingers and tiny wires. lmao. Thanks Kurt & crew
 
Just opened this a second ago...

CLEARLY a lot of careful thought went into this in a very short amount of time!
And here is what you get.
-A nicely organized little collection of doodads, neatly packed, labeled and explained:

-Instructions with color photos
-Nice OEM, Spring-folding handle in the color you select
-Bolts for handle & bold covers
-Very nice, large, OEM-looking button with the perfect label (icon of rear hatch opening)
-Cut-out template
-Wiring doodads

Here's a photo with better labels...if you click image to zoom.

I'll post some follow-ups...but this looks good.

**Beyond coming up with the solution to begin with...
-For the amount of parts identifying/ordering, labeling, bagging, organizing, packaging and careful explanation included here? This is a great little set, Kurt!!
Nicely done!!!!!!

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I'm glad to hear they are arriving safe and sound. Let's see those installed pics! :cool:
 
I'm glad to hear they are arriving safe and sound. Let's see those installed pics! :cool:

Workin on it live... Got wiring done. Just gotta do the cutout and handle... :hillbilly:
 
OK... It's in, and working great!

But I'm still deciding on how I want to do the handle.

I think the normal tendency would be to mount it below the button like in Kurt's photos, but I noticed that the button requires very little movement inward to activate...so I'm actually thinking of intentionally letting the handle partially cover the button when in spring-folded position. That way, my gear, or my feet that will be right about button level when I sleep won't accidentally push it in the middle of the night (or my gear on the freeway).

Here it is with no handle (and yes, I know it's not centered, but that's necessary to avoid internal obstructions)...
FullSizeRender 16.webp


Here is the "normal" handle position:

FullSizeRender 18.webp


But I think I'll actually install the handle here (ignore my crooked angle...)
FullSizeRender 17.webp


Obviously crooked in that photo, but I think I'll deliberately cover it to avoid accidental activation...

Anyway... Nice work Kurt! Works a charm!

Definitely takes a bit of fiddling... but entirely doable.

Maybe I'll post a couple of suggestions from the experience for those about to install tomorrow...
 
Great thought about the handle placement. As my fridge is mounted on the left side, I really considered mounting the handle centered on the right side of the door as to easily pull closer when sleeping in the rear.
 
OK... It's in, and working great!

But I'm still deciding on how I want to do the handle.

I think the normal tendency would be to mount it below the button like in Kurt's photos, but I noticed that the button requires very little movement inward to activate...so I'm actually thinking of intentionally letting the handle partially cover the button when in spring-folded position. That way, my gear, or my feet that will be right about button level when I sleep won't accidentally push it in the middle of the night (or my gear on the freeway).

Here it is with no handle (and yes, I know it's not centered, but that's necessary to avoid internal obstructions)...
View attachment 1413691

Here is the "normal" handle position:

View attachment 1413692

But I think I'll actually install the handle here (ignore my crooked angle...)
View attachment 1413693

Obviously crooked in that photo, but I think I'll deliberately cover it to avoid accidental activation...

Anyway... Nice work Kurt! Works a charm!

Definitely takes a bit of fiddling... but entirely doable.

Maybe I'll post a couple of suggestions from the experience for those about to install tomorrow...

Thanks. That looks great! Not being a DIY person, the install looks a bit intimidating. I don't want to compromise the electrical system or invalidate my warranty. Also talking with Kurt about paying him to do the install the next time I pass through SLC.

What color did you use? Is that the light gray? If so, I think it is what I need on my black interior 2016. (Seats/floor are black, headliner is a light color.)
 
It's really very easy, the directions are bullet proof. It helps to have smaller hands and a good wire stripper though.
 
It's really very easy, the directions are bullet proof. It helps to have smaller hands and a good wire stripper though.

I can't ship those :D
 
Thanks. That looks great! Not being a DIY person, the install looks a bit intimidating. I don't want to compromise the electrical system or invalidate my warranty. Also talking with Kurt about paying him to do the install the next time I pass through SLC.

What color did you use? Is that the light gray? If so, I think it is what I need on my black interior 2016. (Seats/floor are black, headliner is a light color.)

I do empathize with the intimidation thing. I am a complete electrical NOOB myself, but I managed it. Basically you just have to cut and strip four existing wires and use the included crimping tubes to add four wires into their line.

I decided to add a bit of solder to my splices bc I didn't feel certain about my crimping with the very thin wires.

If you don't care about illumination of the button you can just splice two of the four wires and it works.
 
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All of our in-stock handles shipped today :cool:

We are now waiting on the next batch of parts coming from overseas and will take back-orders in the meantime!

ship (Small).webp
 
I know with the ARB drawers there's a bit of room between the drawers and hatch, the Dobinsons look like the are almost flush with the hatch, is it hard to close with drawers installed being that it's so low? And any concern that the only thing holding that panel on are those little plastic doohickeys or do the bolts for the handle pass through the metal on the hatch?
 
I know with the ARB drawers there's a bit of room between the drawers and hatch, the Dobinsons look like the are almost flush with the hatch, is it hard to close with drawers installed being that it's so low? And any concern that the only thing holding that panel on are those little plastic doohickeys or do the bolts for the handle pass through the metal on the hatch?

No, the handle sits above the top deck of drawers. Obviously if you have stacked drawers it would be blocked but then again you wouldn't be back there pulling it shut. No concern with the handle, it's a strength in number as there are a ton of the plastic clips and the interior panel doesn't even flex while pulling down. It does simply bolt though the plastic with a provided fender washer on the inside.

Not a great pic but you can see the top of the drawers are below the tailgate by a few inches:

IMG_1893.webp
 
I know with the ARB drawers there's a bit of room between the drawers and hatch, the Dobinsons look like the are almost flush with the hatch, is it hard to close with drawers installed being that it's so low? And any concern that the only thing holding that panel on are those little plastic doohickeys or do the bolts for the handle pass through the metal on the hatch?

The handle and button sit well above the drawers. No worries.
 
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All of our in-stock handles shipped today :cool:

We are now waiting on the next batch of parts coming from overseas and will take back-orders in the meantime!

View attachment 1415549

Well, I guess that answers my question (to myself) about how soon I want to do this. ;-) I'll wait and see what experiences others like @Markuson have. It truly is a "nice to have" but probably not the end of the world if I need to enter/exit through the side doors for now.
 
Well, I guess that answers my question (to myself) about how soon I want to do this. ;) I'll wait and see what experiences others like @Markuson have. It truly is a "nice to have" but probably not the end of the world if I need to enter/exit through the side doors for now.

PS, we got an air-freight today with Light Grey and some Sand Beige :D
 
Installed mine today. Wasn't a fan of the included crimps, so I used splices I had which worked really well.
IMG_1582.webp
IMG_1583.webp


Used this guy which has been in my toolbox for 16 years with little use to tighten the nut inside the hatch while installing the handle.

IMG_1584.webp


Installed pics at night. ARB drawers in the back with plenty of clearance.

IMG_1603.webp
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I wouldn't recommend using splices in an automotive environment. There is a good chance they will eventually fail due to vibration.
 
OK so now I don't feel like the Lone Ranger. I also changed the supplied connectors going to an offset size heat shrink type
 
I wouldn't recommend using splices in an automotive environment. There is a good chance they will eventually fail due to vibration.

Disagree. I've been using them without issue for as long as I can remember and this usage is about as insulated from things like vibration and the elements as you can find in the 200.
 
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