Marshall - If a guy (me) buys a used/new 200 and adds aftermarket UCA for alignment purposes following a nominal lift, would you advise replacing the front LCA as well?
200 Series Icon stage 5 hybrid lift
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
You will know once you have it apart. Because if they don't move freely they are seized. A really s***ty design in my view.
- Thread starter
- #23
Location for the switch pro.
what tire and size is the owner planning on running?
Oh! That's clean!! Do you have a rear view to show how it is all situated?
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
The seizing problem lies with the lack of a coating on the rubber control arm bushings inner steel sleeve. A little water in there and it can lock/rust tight to the bolts that pass through.
Not to jack this thread. I purchased a two sets of the attached to solve this issue of seizing. My lca cam bolts are frozen so I'm replacing them and using this neat deal in place of the OEM bolts. Basically the bolt has a plastic sleeve that covers it so theres no metal on metal.
enjoy: http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...ruiser&year=2008 - 2017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo
enjoy: http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...ruiser&year=2008 - 2017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo
- Thread starter
- #28
whats the plan is to keep the tire from eating the fender lip when flexing.
That's the main reason I didn't go tundra arms. I run the same 35's so I'm really curious
Thanks
That's the main reason I didn't go tundra arms. I run the same 35's so I'm really curious
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #31
Timbren SES are what I'm running (f/r) if you're still in research mode. Thanks for the reply looking forward to seeing where the cutting takes place.
Last edited:
I also will be following this closely as I would love to run 35's at some point but with my 18x9 inch wheels with 20mm offset I am in a similar ballpark to you and I'm a bit concerned about the "tuck". Please post up pics of where you have cut when you get a chance and if you could also post some pics of the bump stops you use and the rig flexing that would be outstanding! thanks,
Trollhole,
Is it possible to slip a sawzall blade in there and cut the cam bolts or did you have to actually cut the top and bottom of the LCA to get it to come out? I'm planning the swap - and am anticipating this issue rearing its ugly head...
Thanks @Mogwai I appreciate the offer and will take you up on it! I also ordered the SPC bolts but certainly don't want to use the new ones as a punch to knock out the old. But my guess is that @Trollhole would have done something like that instead of spending so much time cutting....??
I'm not really understanding yet how exactly they are seized - but dang - if a professional took 4-6 hours of cutting to get those suckers off, then I should plan for a lot longer!
Maybe the bolt was seized in too. That earlier pic was of my clean side. The other came out fine but you can see how bad the bolt is, and the insert is actually seized to the washer on the other side (this is where I thought using the old insert would help).
Ugh....I need to get mentally prepared for this to get FUBAR'd right away. I appreciate the photos!
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Cam you start pre-applying lubricant/penetrating oil.
Kroil, break free, liquid wrench
Pb blaster.
Kroil, break free, liquid wrench
Pb blaster.
Oh I will! I've already started the kroil treatments.....I went through this with the KDSS as well and got them loose!
