1kz-te to mechanical pump

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Moved the pump a bit more this week... And wow like it has a power band....
Get it in the right spot and it pulls hard.
My test hill usually scrubs 20 k's off when doing a 100... and if you try and keep it at 100 the EGT's climb fast..
Now the same hill.... kept it at 100 and still in top gear, Converter locked... and temps stayed below 650 C..
And it still wanted to pull a bit....(not much but just a little)
I think I will leave it there ......
 
so you have it advanced a fair bit, any rattles? is there much diesel noise like this?

Ive actually still been trying to eliminate my distinct rattle, finally swapped my gearbox for another gearbox with taller ratios and the noise has disppeared,very odd

but have run 20psi boost now for a week also with no noise, so Im thinking the extra load on the engine has helped the light load retard rattle

has so much more get it up and go at 20pound specailly at the beach, Im stoked so I geuss I need to keep advancing the pump also to find the sweet spot
 
do you experience any cooling issues over there with the 1kz in your truck? if my egts stay at anything over 550 for more than 5 min, on hwy while towing and heavy 4wding say 3rd gear high range 4wd in soft sand, the temps rise up
everything is new, big ally radiator, 10 blade 1kz fan,glycol free coolant, hub is good, 71 deg thermostat
still runs hot, wasnt expecting to run hot on the hwy on a 25 deg day while towing a car at 110klm, ac off
 
Mine slowly rises the water temp on long hill work especially if its on full boost...
I think its a combo of heat from compressed induction air and load on the engine...
I have just adjusted my pump timing and now on boost the EGTs are significantly lower (like 150C lower) so hopefully it wont rise so quickly.
Out of interest what does yours raise to ??
Mine climbs and seems to sit on 95C
Don't forget I am running 20psi and 35 inch tyres and auto....So she's working....
As for rattle...The manual pump is nosier over an electronic pump by virtue of design.
So you get a certain amount of noise directly from the pump. As for diesel knock mine is noticeably louder now the the timing has been adjusted.
However its only during light acceleration.. If I am giving it the welly it pulls and sounds great no knock....I may back mine a half way back to my last mark and see if I get a compromise between noise and EGT's.
 
hey kbushnz, getting back to the cooling system, Im running a temp probe in the my top radiator hose to a digital display, it got as high as 105(factory gauge didnt move a mm) on a hill in 5th at 110 on 2200rpm, Im really loving my new 30per cent overdrive, as it now cruizes effortlessly on the speed limit at much lower revs
I kept my throttle pretty steady for egts not to climb max was 400 at 12-13 psi and coolant temp still rose up, I was driving with the wind also

intake temp probe also reading max of 60 deg air into the engine at 20psi, hovers around 50-55 deg C, untill I switch ac on which is a water chiller also for the w2a cooler, drops down another 10 degrees, but top hose keep climbing?

on the way home driving into the wind it ran very cool around 80-90, tended to race up the hills at around 120 with same egts hardly even rose, I reckon my viscous hub musnt be pulling any air through the grill when temps are up, like the silicone fluid is burnt out, stopped on at toyota and got some new stuff,we shall see

Im so loving my new engine, specially the way the new mech pump delivers the timing and fuel from takeoff you dont even need to tromp it as the pump does it for you, with a surge of diesel power,

my only drama is the cooling problem, I found a mod to adapt the factory temp gauge to move with the temp of the engine closer, but I soon will be towing a camper trailer 15000klm across australia in a few months, just worrying about the extremely high heat and humidity through the central parts that might be hard going,

my other option is to tune the fuel right back to a super lean condition,a guy at toyota reckened 500 egts was too high for these to run cool, Im still trying to sort my fuel control solenoid(its rather a fiddly little operation) as I want to encorporate a single stage boost controller into it also

happy christmas
 
Cool, sounds like you are onto it.. Viscous hub refill makes a difference, there is a thread on here on how to adjust it and fill.....I did mine a few months back....
Running the AC will add more heat out front for the cooling system to deal with...
It will pre heat the air before it hits the Radiator....
Retarding the timing too much will loose all its power and run like a slug....
I have just dropped my timing back a smidgen...and its noticeable quieter..
The noise is the peak pressure from combustion peaking too early in the compression stroke...With moderate to slow speeds the timing is too advanced..And the pressure builds before it hits top dead..
With hard acceleration its spot on....All to do with piston speed, compression and peak pressures...
So now that its adjusted back it quieter and also the egts are only a few 10's of degs hotter...
Truck is now parked up over Xmas to make room in the drive for our guests...
Then will give it a good run in the New Year...
Take care and have a great Aussie Xmas... Throw a few prawns on the barbie.....
 
hey kbushnz, getting back to the cooling system, Im running a temp probe in the my top radiator hose to a digital display, it got as high as 105(factory gauge didnt move a mm) on a hill in 5th at 110 on 2200rpm, Im really loving my new 30per cent overdrive, as it now cruizes effortlessly on the speed limit at much lower revs
I kept my throttle pretty steady for egts not to climb max was 400 at 12-13 psi and coolant temp still rose up, I was driving with the wind also

intake temp probe also reading max of 60 deg air into the engine at 20psi, hovers around 50-55 deg C, untill I switch ac on which is a water chiller also for the w2a cooler, drops down another 10 degrees, but top hose keep climbing?

on the way home driving into the wind it ran very cool around 80-90, tended to race up the hills at around 120 with same egts hardly even rose, I reckon my viscous hub musnt be pulling any air through the grill when temps are up, like the silicone fluid is burnt out, stopped on at toyota and got some new stuff,we shall see

Im so loving my new engine, specially the way the new mech pump delivers the timing and fuel from takeoff you dont even need to tromp it as the pump does it for you, with a surge of diesel power,

my only drama is the cooling problem, I found a mod to adapt the factory temp gauge to move with the temp of the engine closer, but I soon will be towing a camper trailer 15000klm across australia in a few months, just worrying about the extremely high heat and humidity through the central parts that might be hard going,

my other option is to tune the fuel right back to a super lean condition,a guy at toyota reckened 500 egts was too high for these to run cool, Im still trying to sort my fuel control solenoid(its rather a fiddly little operation) as I want to encorporate a single stage boost controller into it also

happy christmas

I would not be towing a gumboot with a 1KZ we use it to tow for a few minutes thats it in the jungle. On road towing is confined to the 13B-T engines they are much more suited.

Also intercool it long distance at 100k+ will kill the head.
 
hey kbushnz, getting back to the cooling system, Im running a temp probe in the my top radiator hose to a digital display, it got as high as 105(factory gauge didnt move a mm) on a hill in 5th at 110 on 2200rpm, Im really loving my new 30per cent overdrive, as it now cruizes effortlessly

How did you acheive this 30% overdrive?
 
with a bit of time, a bearing/steering wheel puller and a donor dyna r254f truck gear box you can easily swap the 5th gear cogs over onto the r150f 4wd gearboxs
takes around 1-2 hours to do this mod if you have the gearbox out of your 4wd

im very happy with my overdrive its transformed the long distance traveling effort 10 foold
 
Ok sorted my fan hub, it was corroded on the thermostat so not adjusting itself for the heat, had a spare 1kd so I through it on and wullah perfect fan now roaring into life
I now have my pump near on fully advanced minus a fraction of max advance internally to keep my lpg intake happy but man alive does it pull now with minimal egts

only problem now is I think 1 - Ive blown the old head gasket apart
2 - cracked head
cos its now pressurizing the radiator and forcing coolant out and overheating rapidly,
any ideas whereabouts you get a high quality head from that you can trust?
 
Ahhh rats....I got my head directly from Toyota... there are aftermarket ones, some better than others...
But unsure of which.....
 
hey yeah the toyota option was loads of money
the guys at kaipoiw repowers recommended the kiwi heads brand complete new heads, so Ive gone with that option
brand new valves,cam fully assembled for $1100 delivered, so waiting for that to arrive now

Ive fully advanced the pump now and yeah the egts are super low,:bounce:
 
hey kbushnz, finally the head arrived and 4 afternoons later it is all up and running sweet, the cast head was finished perfectly,

Ive noticed the egts at normal driving are very low, when you really want to make it move in a hurry and fully tromp the gas, the egts race up to 500 easily, I havent been on the beach yet or towed anything, but with yours on 500 egt for a long time will it overheat with your fan fully enagaged traveling at hwy speeds?

Ive just done the toyota surf temp gauge mod to the factory gauge to keep an eye on the coolant more accuratly, time will tell
also wired in my dual stage boost controller that is rigged to my full power solenoid onboard the IP for short bursts of maximum 150 hp

regards
 
Nah my temps only rise under constant load like a long steep hill and then temps stop at 90 - 95 ish... and hold...
Off road and in low range it never gets hot... Just sits on 85 ish all day long....
 
Hello guys, I just swap my engine few months ago to kzt, my stock was 2lt, common i Europe for my lj73, I was thinking at the beginning in kzt, but it was impossible to find it in Spain, and in the end I decide to buy kzt-e and modify the pump, easy...but, the history is not like that, the main head pass hole in the pump for kzt engine is 9mm diameter, for 2lt is 8mm, if you move the quantity of fuel in the original 2lt pump, you dont have the optimal combustion in the engine because you move the main curve fuel, not the best, for this reason it is not 100% usefull as stock this pump for run in kzt engine, this modidycation is not easy and cheap, for sure it is possible but in my case we expend many hours for fix it, this is my mix fuel pump
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Fitting the pump for try...

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As you can see the end of the pump is not stock 2lt is from nissan, and It is 9mm diameter, I know it is one hybryd but it is working well, I test other kzj70's whit stock engines and I can't feel big diferences
 
hey all, finally got to the root problem of my cooling dramas
turns out the 52mm 3 core alloy rad I got made for it just wont cool as well as the standard 38mm 2 core, I ended up tapping a hole on the lower thermostat housing with a temp sender and the ebay radiator top and bottom hose was the same, swapped in the standard alloy rad with the plastic tanks and no problem

so still needing a full hd alloy radiator for extreme summer temps and towing with the a/c on at good hwy speeds Ive had to go with the 55mm 2 core PWR all alloy radiator. very expensive at 900 delivered but proven by wind tunnel to be as good as a 6 core brass, so fingers crossed, once this big rad is in I can get the fuel up where I want it and run the 20psi magical mark,
 
hey all 1kz hilux fans
since building up my new 1kz engine in my 4runner to make over 150hp atw, ive since had to rebuild all my driveline, go figure 8in diff centres break easy
so far I have broken the front and rear factory diff centres, im wondering if I should upgrade the cvs to the hd chome moly type or leave standard ones in?
 
hey all 1kz hilux fans
since building up my new 1kz engine in my 4runner to make over 150hp atw, ive since had to rebuild all my driveline, go figure 8in diff centres break easy
so far I have broken the front and rear factory diff centres, im wondering if I should upgrade the cvs to the hd chome moly type or leave standard ones in?

Stock hilux front cv joints are as tough as pretzels you need to change your driving style to be calmer and smarter. Bteaking front and rear centres means you driving way to hard. Front I expect rear no.
 
Great thread! I think my electronic IP is sucking in air, so I am considering rebuilding it or possibly going to the mechanical pump. I did not realize how rare the 1kz-t pumps were as I had hope to find something completely factory. The hybrid pumps seem well thought out though so I might have to go that way.
 
I have a 1kzt Mechanical injection pump for sale, located in the United Kingdom though...PM if interested!
 

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