oh ok weird? different shaft sizes or somthing? didnt know that, haha there goes that idea!
1kz-te to mechanical pump (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rich Sims
- Start date
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LC also has offset diffs.
If it could have been done I would have only had to pay less than 1/3rd of the cost for the lc halfcut I bought!! Would have used the surf 1kz and gearbox.
4hi/lo is also on the opposite side...another reason.
1kz mechanical pump issue
sorry if i off-topic but really need help...i just swap my hilux sr 2.5l turbo (2kd-ftv) to 1kz with customized mechanical pump. i got it very responsive but loss its power when go up hill especially on 4th and 5th gear. the engine i swaps is from surf auto transmission and im using my hilux sr original flywheel, gearbox and axle. some say it cause by the axle gear ratio... the things is my 2.5 2kd-ftv (piggyback with speedbox) is more powerful when on hill road. any advice?
sorry if i off-topic but really need help...i just swap my hilux sr 2.5l turbo (2kd-ftv) to 1kz with customized mechanical pump. i got it very responsive but loss its power when go up hill especially on 4th and 5th gear. the engine i swaps is from surf auto transmission and im using my hilux sr original flywheel, gearbox and axle. some say it cause by the axle gear ratio... the things is my 2.5 2kd-ftv (piggyback with speedbox) is more powerful when on hill road. any advice?
Check pump timing is correct, adjust boost compensator, change down a gear......
Mine flys up hills when on boost......
Mine flys up hills when on boost......
Hi guys, I have just converted my old 2.8 powered diesel 4runner to the 2002 1kz hilux and am very interested in getting a mechanical fuel pump to power it, Ive already got lpg , a barrel w2a system, plan on running 18psi, already manual r151f on 4.55s with 33s is 140hp at the wheels achievable? or do you need to get the taller ratios?
Im having huge trouble finding someone in australia that can build me a pump, can anyone supply me with a shop or phone number to the gurus in NZ?
everything is in and now just waiting for a fuel pump to make it go, please help
thanks, love your work kbushnz,
Im having huge trouble finding someone in australia that can build me a pump, can anyone supply me with a shop or phone number to the gurus in NZ?
everything is in and now just waiting for a fuel pump to make it go, please help
thanks, love your work kbushnz,
Message sent .... http://www.kaiapoirepowers.co.nz/services/
Hi Cori, I have manualized the auto now..So no TPS...less monkey motion with throttle cables....
I also put thru a shift kit from transco... Fast shifts...
So no need to worry now.....
But will drop you a line tomorrow...
Calvin
Hi again kbushnz, has there been any dyno runs taken with the mech pumps fitted?
all I could find on the net was a tuned 1kzte
http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?10858-Partially-ROM-tuned-1kz-te
anyway thanks for your help, my mech pump should be on the way to me from your neck of the woods this week, hoping to get it on the dyno before summer, so I shall post a dyno graph to compare against a stock 1kzte
all I could find on the net was a tuned 1kzte
http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?10858-Partially-ROM-tuned-1kz-te
anyway thanks for your help, my mech pump should be on the way to me from your neck of the woods this week, hoping to get it on the dyno before summer, so I shall post a dyno graph to compare against a stock 1kzte
Hi Yah, none that I am aware, Cori might have some....I have seen some on the net when people have done inter cooler installs..
Will be interested in your results...
Will be interested in your results...
Hi there, my new mech pump is in and dialed in, question though did you find you had alot more diesel combustion noise with the new mech pump in compared to previous efi pump?
, Ive started from fully advanced and slowly retarted it checking and testing (as I run gas injection-seems to accentuate diesel knock under load with too advanced)
my query is I seem to have alot of diesel ratttle just when you back off the throttle through the gears? with gas turned off or on no difference,as its a new motor it may just take me some time to get used to it,
, Ive started from fully advanced and slowly retarted it checking and testing (as I run gas injection-seems to accentuate diesel knock under load with too advanced)
my query is I seem to have alot of diesel ratttle just when you back off the throttle through the gears? with gas turned off or on no difference,as its a new motor it may just take me some time to get used to it,
Funny you should say that.... I do too.... I have backed off the timing until it went away... But as a result its a bit gutless and the egt's race up fast when giving it the boot....So I am wanting to find out if that rattle is a bad thing or not.... My engine has over 200,000 clicks on it..
Currently its set 1mm into the rattle zone.....
It doesn't sound bad when accelerating... just when you button off or coast...
Currently its set 1mm into the rattle zone.....
It doesn't sound bad when accelerating... just when you button off or coast...
hey yeah same thing, when I said its a new motor, its also done 200 000klms but new to me and my 4runner, Nathan hammers said he was aware of the extra diesel noise but its not a problem, I havent been able to tune it out with retard yet, so Ive started advancing again and doing longer runs on the hwy and back to coasting, guess as you have had yours longer and have just found a safer place I should try to find it also, as lpg lowers egts a bit,
thanks again, most helpful
thanks again, most helpful
I am about to move it up again.....
I first dialed it in using a DTI on the pump per the engine manual for a 1KZ... Man did it pull.....But the noise worried me.... So I backed it off until it went quiet... However the noise is not like those ones on youtube which have a real knock to them from idle, mine never sounds like that... It sounds more like rattly tappets....when decelerating.....or coast.... I might push mine up another notch (1mm rotation).
I have also played with the boost compensator... Have opened up the hole on the lid where the boost pressure line goes to.... It boosts a bit quicker now....Made it the same size as the tube diameter...
Also packed the inside of the lid with epoxy.. it reduces the air space and makes the boost pressure more reactive....less space for it to pressurize before moving the diaphragm...
Certainly helped when off road in low range and you want it to get up and boogie when climbing up steep tracks and out of bog holes etc etc...
Keep me updated on your progress....
I have a water to air intercooler going in next to replace the air to air top mount....
I first dialed it in using a DTI on the pump per the engine manual for a 1KZ... Man did it pull.....But the noise worried me.... So I backed it off until it went quiet... However the noise is not like those ones on youtube which have a real knock to them from idle, mine never sounds like that... It sounds more like rattly tappets....when decelerating.....or coast.... I might push mine up another notch (1mm rotation).
I have also played with the boost compensator... Have opened up the hole on the lid where the boost pressure line goes to.... It boosts a bit quicker now....Made it the same size as the tube diameter...
Also packed the inside of the lid with epoxy.. it reduces the air space and makes the boost pressure more reactive....less space for it to pressurize before moving the diaphragm...
Certainly helped when off road in low range and you want it to get up and boogie when climbing up steep tracks and out of bog holes etc etc...
Keep me updated on your progress....
I have a water to air intercooler going in next to replace the air to air top mount....
ah yes the old lid trick, I did that to my mech pump on previous L motor, Ive got everything in and working finally, was waiting for a alloy radiator shroud to be built,
what boost have you settled with? my boost gauge only reads max 15 but I wound my boost controller in a fair bit to get slightly more boost, as Im running a water 2 air system already with a water chiller, it spiked off the guage when I hit foot flat, wasnt expecting it to go off the scale but man did the boost comp throw in some fuel then???? like dusted the whole street instantly 15 psi isnt enough to bottom the boost rod out at the moment, the engine sounded really angry then
,seems you need like 20pounds to get all the pump working to what it was designed to be, but Im not really keen on running 20 all the time, spose Im going to have to soften the boost comp spring? or wind the inner plastic racthet mechanism down, cos I would like to run leaner and cruise lower boost pressures untill you want the boost and fuel
Have you ever heard of damage from diesel knock/pinging in the 1kz?
yes I would agree Ive never heard any actual knocking from mine, just a distinct diesel combustion rattle as it enters and passes 2500rpm, excellerating or coasting just something I gotta live with
so I may share my next mod with the world
found Im wanting to have economy for road (no soot) and power offroading and cant be bothered winding fuel rod around alot, gets tiresome
so machined a rod down, bored out spare fuel rod and have silver soldered a push solenoid with extenal plunger to it, so at the touch of a switch the solenoid throws out and mechanically gives you more fuel, my ebay solenoid can have max 5mm movement but adjust as little as you want with the bush Ive made to join the 2 together
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271090778318?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
basically wired up with full throttle micro switch and a on switch so idle isnt affected, offroad mostly testing in the sand dunes, can really get the 4by going quickly in a short area moving 2nd gear high range 4wd up dunes is a totally new experince, and who cares about how much black smoke you blow out it makes for good vids, so far my zorst is just a hazey colour, havent got any black colour yet, Im thinking with 5mm longer on the fuel rod it might, then switch it off if temps rise and egts arent managable specially in our summer here,im stoked, tho need to cover the whole thing once setup in a some electrogrease and dual wall heatshrink
going to wait for early autumn for a dyno run, hoping to have much bigger cooling for w2a by then, lpg sorted-trying boost pill in the boost line to lpg unit to bleed gas in slower at 10psi(cant use it with high load at the moment-way too much pinging) and a 30% 5th gear reduction, hoping to get revvs down to 2000rpm at 110 with 33s for a happier quieter engine, with the 3"in dump sitting on 3000rpm at 110 its alot of noise
Im guesing around 130hp atw perhaps? so much fun to drive on the hwy specially hills it pulls and keeps pulling up hills
leaves my bros v8 cruizer ute behind(read he cant gain on me,so he cant catch me either,
what boost have you settled with? my boost gauge only reads max 15 but I wound my boost controller in a fair bit to get slightly more boost, as Im running a water 2 air system already with a water chiller, it spiked off the guage when I hit foot flat, wasnt expecting it to go off the scale but man did the boost comp throw in some fuel then???? like dusted the whole street instantly 15 psi isnt enough to bottom the boost rod out at the moment, the engine sounded really angry then
,seems you need like 20pounds to get all the pump working to what it was designed to be, but Im not really keen on running 20 all the time, spose Im going to have to soften the boost comp spring? or wind the inner plastic racthet mechanism down, cos I would like to run leaner and cruise lower boost pressures untill you want the boost and fuel
Have you ever heard of damage from diesel knock/pinging in the 1kz?
yes I would agree Ive never heard any actual knocking from mine, just a distinct diesel combustion rattle as it enters and passes 2500rpm, excellerating or coasting just something I gotta live with
so I may share my next mod with the world
found Im wanting to have economy for road (no soot) and power offroading and cant be bothered winding fuel rod around alot, gets tiresome
so machined a rod down, bored out spare fuel rod and have silver soldered a push solenoid with extenal plunger to it, so at the touch of a switch the solenoid throws out and mechanically gives you more fuel, my ebay solenoid can have max 5mm movement but adjust as little as you want with the bush Ive made to join the 2 together
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271090778318?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
basically wired up with full throttle micro switch and a on switch so idle isnt affected, offroad mostly testing in the sand dunes, can really get the 4by going quickly in a short area moving 2nd gear high range 4wd up dunes is a totally new experince, and who cares about how much black smoke you blow out it makes for good vids, so far my zorst is just a hazey colour, havent got any black colour yet, Im thinking with 5mm longer on the fuel rod it might, then switch it off if temps rise and egts arent managable specially in our summer here,im stoked, tho need to cover the whole thing once setup in a some electrogrease and dual wall heatshrink
going to wait for early autumn for a dyno run, hoping to have much bigger cooling for w2a by then, lpg sorted-trying boost pill in the boost line to lpg unit to bleed gas in slower at 10psi(cant use it with high load at the moment-way too much pinging) and a 30% 5th gear reduction, hoping to get revvs down to 2000rpm at 110 with 33s for a happier quieter engine, with the 3"in dump sitting on 3000rpm at 110 its alot of noise
Im guesing around 130hp atw perhaps? so much fun to drive on the hwy specially hills it pulls and keeps pulling up hills
leaves my bros v8 cruizer ute behind(read he cant gain on me,so he cant catch me either,
Wow you are getting right into it.
I have set my boost for 20 psi and only hit it under heavy acceleration.
I noticed it got up and went better set at 20 than 15....
I haven't had the injectors looked at yet, however they were done about 80,000 k's before the mod, so could do with a check....But not worried.
Have just advanced the pump a bit last week. Took it for a run in a local forest park. EGT's dropped a bit esp when pushing it on the hi-way up hills... Good test...And felt better / pulls better.
And off the mark or low speed the take off is awesome... Had some old phart holding up traffic on the trip home, got past him on a small passing lane one quick squirt and we launched... The guy in the Subaru behind me had eyes the size of saucers.
Mine pulls great now, very happy with it.. With it being an auto and my manualising of it I can do 2nd gear starts in low... sooooo much better than factory setup which used to start you off in 1st....Even if you selected 2nd...
Interested in a photo of you solenoid setup.
Going to tweak the timing a bit more ready for a run next weekend...
I have never heard a 1KZ ping as such, heard a few of those big ford and chevy ones on youtube and they sound terrible....
I have set my boost for 20 psi and only hit it under heavy acceleration.
I noticed it got up and went better set at 20 than 15....
I haven't had the injectors looked at yet, however they were done about 80,000 k's before the mod, so could do with a check....But not worried.
Have just advanced the pump a bit last week. Took it for a run in a local forest park. EGT's dropped a bit esp when pushing it on the hi-way up hills... Good test...And felt better / pulls better.
And off the mark or low speed the take off is awesome... Had some old phart holding up traffic on the trip home, got past him on a small passing lane one quick squirt and we launched... The guy in the Subaru behind me had eyes the size of saucers.
Mine pulls great now, very happy with it.. With it being an auto and my manualising of it I can do 2nd gear starts in low... sooooo much better than factory setup which used to start you off in 1st....Even if you selected 2nd...
Interested in a photo of you solenoid setup.
Going to tweak the timing a bit more ready for a run next weekend...
I have never heard a 1KZ ping as such, heard a few of those big ford and chevy ones on youtube and they sound terrible....
I was just wondering when your pump is half way on the slotted holes, thats bascally the only position I have to start from, if I retard from there it wont start, if I advance I may have 5mm of movement in the slots, how much from hard to start retarded position would you say you would have your pump advanced positioned and is the rattle any better,
have you gone for a run with it fully advanced, seems once Im used to the engines power delivery I go back to tweeking the timing again and you can actually notice the difference then
is your rattle more pronounced at a certain rev range? is it a load related thing?Im also wondering how much intake heat the turbo makes at 20psi, will the 200 000klm old turbo last very long at those pounds? I need to start measureing heat, and working out whether its worth it or not, overheating on a summers day is no fun,
Im wondering if aussie deisel is same as NZ diesel? low octane, I ran 5L of unleaded to 50l of diesel and the rattle was quieter than usual,next tank was just diesel and the rattle got louder and came back, so now Im thinking should I just fill up with diesel and throw in some unleaded every tank???more testing needs to be done
have you gone for a run with it fully advanced, seems once Im used to the engines power delivery I go back to tweeking the timing again and you can actually notice the difference then
is your rattle more pronounced at a certain rev range? is it a load related thing?Im also wondering how much intake heat the turbo makes at 20psi, will the 200 000klm old turbo last very long at those pounds? I need to start measureing heat, and working out whether its worth it or not, overheating on a summers day is no fun,
Im wondering if aussie deisel is same as NZ diesel? low octane, I ran 5L of unleaded to 50l of diesel and the rattle was quieter than usual,next tank was just diesel and the rattle got louder and came back, so now Im thinking should I just fill up with diesel and throw in some unleaded every tank???more testing needs to be done
I just kept adjusting mine till it was quiet and had a bit of pull....
I then scribed a line across the flanges and now have rotated it 2 mm moving 1mm at a time...
No idea what that relates to in degs ...but it gives me a visual ref.
The rest is seat of the pants....
I then scribed a line across the flanges and now have rotated it 2 mm moving 1mm at a time...
No idea what that relates to in degs ...but it gives me a visual ref.
The rest is seat of the pants....
