1kz-te to mechanical pump

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

1KZ T vs TE how to tell the difference ?

Hi guys, i have a BJ73 which has been retro fitted with a 1KZ engine and auto trans.

The accelerator pedal has a cable attached to it and no wires.

Does this mean it is a 1KZ-T engine with fully mechanical pump ?
But the pump has several electrical sockets on it.

I went to a salvage yard to look at a 1KZ for another project and the guy told me he had a cable driven accelerator type 1KZ but that it needed a control box to run it.... Im confused.

I thought 1KZ came in 2 versions...
"T" which was fully mechanical pump, hence needed no control box or ECU

AND

"TE" which was the electronoc pump and had fly by wire accelerator which needed an ECU

please explain guys..
 
I thought 1KZ came in 2 versions...
"T" which was fully mechanical pump, hence needed no control box or ECU

AND

"TE" which was the electronoc pump and had fly by wire accelerator which needed an ECU

please explain guys..

Correct.

Both have cable.
 
Last edited:
They had the fly by wire in the hilux/ pickup models. Haven't seen one in a 70.
 
Hi all, both t and te have throttle cables going to the engine bay, the t goes to the injection pump but the te goes to a butterfly in the manifold and on the other end of the butterfly is a position sensor that sends signals to the ecu to tell it how much fuel to put in.
 
I have a 1kzt Mechanical injection pump for sale, located in the United Kingdom though...PM if interested!

Hey mate I'm interested in the pump if you still have it up for sale. What sort of condition is it in?
Cheers
 
Update, I am now going to go manual pump...
Its a hybrid 2LT / 1KZTE
Shop down here in NZ does them, min 18psi boost.
As mine is auto i need to keep the lift cable to the auto and the TPS.
I will run the factory ECU to control the auto.
It will throw out error codes for the engine, but should not effect the auto operation...
If I get issues then will get an aftermarket auto controller....
I like my auto...

Hi kabush.. know this is a old thread but I'm busy now with a conversion on a kzte..I see that you have two cables running to the trotthle butterfly.. for what is the second cable
 
Hi kabush.. know this is a old thread but I'm busy now with a conversion on a kzte..I see that you have two cables running to the trotthle butterfly.. for what is the second cable

Usually one is the throttle cable (to the accelerator pedal), the other is the idle up cable (to the little knob in the cabin).
 
Ooh thank you.. I've got two lat engines. The one has the 2.8 colt pump and the other one has the original kzt pump on. I need to decide which one is going to work best for me. The 2.8 colt pump is straight forword with just the accelerator cable connecting on it and the lat mechanical pump I need to make up linkages
 
Hi kabush.. know this is a old thread but I'm busy now with a conversion on a kzte..I see that you have two cables running to the trotthle butterfly.. for what is the second cable

My manual pump has 2 cables, one is throttle cable from accelerator pedal. The other is the line pressure control cable from the auto trans.
This cable allows more pressure to the auto clutch packs etc etc as more throttle is applied.
 
Ooh thank you.. I've got two lat engines. The one has the 2.8 colt pump and the other one has the original kzt pump on. I need to decide which one is going to work best for me. The 2.8 colt pump is straight forword with just the accelerator cable connecting on it and the lat mechanical pump I need to make up linkages

If you have a factory 1KZT injector pump... use that one as its tuned for the engine (3.0) The colt 2.8 pump will be tuned to the smaller engine.
I have seen people mod the 1KZT pump to use a cable directly to it and not like the factory one with the quadrant and push rod.
 
If you have a factory 1KZT injector pump... use that one as its tuned for the engine (3.0) The colt 2.8 pump will be tuned to the smaller engine.
I have seen people mod the 1KZT pump to use a cable directly to it and not like the factory one with the quadrant and push rod.
Thanks for the advise. Ill see what I can do with the accelerator cable to connect it directly on the pump.. and not using the linkages
 
Bit of an update.
Been working on powering the fuel cut solenoid.
I found a spare round plug in the wiring loom between the battery and inner guard.
Has one big fat white wire (Batt + all the time) and one red wire (Batt + when key on run....not acc) So this red wire should power the fuel cut off solenoid. Will track its fuse back later....
Not sure what it was meant to drive.....But the white batt power all the time could come in handy to tap into...
However connected in the Red wire to fuel cut....and not enough grunt to drive solenoid, it didn't have enough to drive a std relay. Rats...:mad:
So will run a wire from inside with a hidden switch to hinder any thievish behavior...

Did a bit more in the last few days... Fixed a leak in fire wall, only been there 10 years but while it was in bits..........No more puddles on the floor when it rains.
Also reduced the length of the hose between the head and block.
IMG_4766.jpg

Just cut down the original one....and used its existing bends to my advantage.:)
Now to clean up all the coolant on the garage floor :rolleyes:

Guard is now back on and one battery tray installed, battery on charge.....
Bit flat with all the cranking and only running for a few mins...

Thats it for today, will play with the throttle next week......


Good Day

I have a 1995 Toyota Hilux which was a 2.4 petrol, I have fitted a KZ-T engine in it
with the mechanical injector pump it seems a bit low on power seems to rev slow not as
quick as it should with a turbo. Does anybody have advise for me please?

Dylan
 
What mechanical pump? One made for it or off another Toyota.
The factory 1kzt pumps are rare...
In NZ we can get hybrid ones made.
Pump timing could be off.
 
Need more info, as said not many 1KZT's out there, photos, engine numbers, part number off fuel pump will help....
Sometime people will swap the electronic pump for a mechanical pump using the 2.4's one or the 2.8... and they are not setup for a 3 liter . So dont push the right amount of fuel thru...
Having said that, if it is an original fuel pump, the timing may be out so may need adjusting, injectors could be worn.....Turbo could be not boosting, might have a leak in the air intake system.
Also these engines will clog the intake up with soot and oil from the EGR system and choke it....
 
Need more info, as said not many 1KZT's out there, photos, engine numbers, part number off fuel pump will help....
Sometime people will swap the electronic pump for a mechanical pump using the 2.4's one or the 2.8... and they are not setup for a 3 liter . So dont push the right amount of fuel thru...
Having said that, if it is an original fuel pump, the timing may be out so may need adjusting, injectors could be worn.....Turbo could be not boosting, might have a leak in the air intake system.
Also these engines will clog the intake up with soot and oil from the EGR system and choke it....

Ok that is fine i will send you some pictures and get some more info on the engine, how do i post photos?
 
Had a play off road.
Worked great.....
Could even drive around in H4.. Always used to drop into Low Range as it would lug and run hot on the EGT's.
Not Now :p
I over did the timing and had too much advance...Reset Now its better.

I have finally got my tacho working......
After much research and getting quotes to fix (some upward of $200+)
I purchased a kit from Jaycar....(Suggestion from an auto electrician)
Assembled it and put it in truck, followed instructions but couldn't get the thing to work, got the occasional flicker.
Grrrrrrrr.:censor:
Re read instructions and followed to the letter. Still no go.:bang:
I originally used the signal from the speed sensor before the ECU.
Idea is to condition / correct it before the ECU.
Then tried to use another signal (Tacho out from ECU)....still no luck....
Reread instructions, checked soldering...All fine.
(this over two days on and off tinkering)
Then only 20 mins ago looking at the picture in the booklet..
Ding.... I needed to add another jumper pin in....
Put pin in, followed instructions and hey presto....Signal to Tacho.
Adjusted pots and got it to show idle speed.
Sweet.
Set it at fast idle, used hand held rev counter (laser) got rpm's and checked Tacho in truck... Adjusted pots to match...
All done....
(I have adjusted the signal from the speed sensor in the pump and out to the ECU)
Now I need a beer ! and have a swim.....
Tidy wiring up tomorrow...
Very Happy Camper.
Sir, May i know how you made the tacho meter work?
 
Greetings.
I am new to the forum, in fact I have not made a presentation, but I hope you can help me, come here looking for information to change the diesel pump for a mechanical one.

My name is Ruben and I'm from Costa Rica

I have a 4runner or Hilux surf 2000, with 1kz-te engine. this engine has failed me 3 times, it just does not turn on.
The first time I tried to repair the injection pump but the car started up without knowing what the problem was.
the second time the pump was switched to the internal rotor and it worked. this was a year ago.

Now it does not turn on again, I already want a definitive solution. Install a mechanical pump to be the best.
I would like to know if they have had power problems?
with the electronic pump the car runs very well, I would not like to lose momentum
 
Greetings.
I am new to the forum, in fact I have not made a presentation, but I hope you can help me, come here looking for information to change the diesel pump for a mechanical one.

My name is Ruben and I'm from Costa Rica

I have a 4runner or Hilux surf 2000, with 1kz-te engine. this engine has failed me 3 times, it just does not turn on.
The first time I tried to repair the injection pump but the car started up without knowing what the problem was.
the second time the pump was switched to the internal rotor and it worked. this was a year ago.

Now it does not turn on again, I already want a definitive solution. Install a mechanical pump to be the best.
I would like to know if they have had power problems?
with the electronic pump the car runs very well, I would not like to lose momentum

Running electronic fuel pump always with ecu and reliability problem.
Mine also switch to mechanical type. Electronic pump give you better emulsion (less black smoke) but power delivery tuning need ecu tuning chip. Mechanical type can tuning by simple pump adjustment .

If you want run with mechanical type pump be sure select the right pump or the pump be tuning enough fuel to supply to the engine.
my experience for the mech pump, the power was much better then electronic type if tuning properly. you can set higher boost pressure and more fuel to give better power delivery. The only problem if you using auto gearbox when setting the TPS sensor, and techometer of 1kz te will not function correctly when using mechanical type pump you need to install aftermarket techometer or find the used techmeter from vechicle which run with mechanical pump engine.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom