1kz-te to mechanical pump

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Throttle all done now, got a Nissan Maxima throttle quadrant....
Welded to 2LT unit....At the appropriate distance from center to give me the pull to have both throttle on pump and TPS unit move from stop to stop.
IMG_4811.jpg


Taken her for its first blat around the block....and dial in the boost...:steer:
Wow what a difference....
Fires up first pop and strong....
Auto appears to shift just fine.....
And when you give her a kick in the pants it pulls........
Just a hint of black smoke....

Pedal a bit heavy with all the springs and cables (drag) will tweak springs to get a softer pedal....

So far so good......
At least its mobile again. :grinpimp:
 
Well played a bit more....
Auto playing up a bit....Late gear changes, especially at hi-way speeds. Tinkered with TPS position but no luck....
However it pulls strong....
Give it the boot at 100 kph and before you know it you are at 120.....
Peak boost at 20psi and can hold 100kph on long hills where it would normally run out of puff and just put the EGT's thru the roof. Or chop down a gear and over rev.
Now I can hold 650C at 20psi boost while blasting up a long steady hill.....And still have a bit in reserve....(This is what the guy who set the pump said it would do)
Haven't pushed any harder yet until I sort the auto out. Possibly go suprastick....
Cant wait to test it out in Low Range off road....As it jumps into life real nice.....
 
Had a play off road.
Worked great.....
Could even drive around in H4.. Always used to drop into Low Range as it would lug and run hot on the EGT's.
Not Now :p
I over did the timing and had too much advance...Reset Now its better.

I have finally got my tacho working......
After much research and getting quotes to fix (some upward of $200+)
I purchased a kit from Jaycar....(Suggestion from an auto electrician)
Assembled it and put it in truck, followed instructions but couldn't get the thing to work, got the occasional flicker.
Grrrrrrrr.:censor:
Re read instructions and followed to the letter. Still no go.:bang:
I originally used the signal from the speed sensor before the ECU.
Idea is to condition / correct it before the ECU.
Then tried to use another signal (Tacho out from ECU)....still no luck....
Reread instructions, checked soldering...All fine.
(this over two days on and off tinkering)
Then only 20 mins ago looking at the picture in the booklet..
Ding.... I needed to add another jumper pin in....
Put pin in, followed instructions and hey presto....Signal to Tacho.
Adjusted pots and got it to show idle speed.
Sweet.
Set it at fast idle, used hand held rev counter (laser) got rpm's and checked Tacho in truck... Adjusted pots to match...
All done....
(I have adjusted the signal from the speed sensor in the pump and out to the ECU)
Now I need a beer ! and have a swim.....
Tidy wiring up tomorrow...
Very Happy Camper.
 
Hi Calvin, Have you thought of running one of these?
1-4 Shift controllers
thats mine mounted in my prado, awesome bit of kit. Only thing is to get engine braking you have to pull your factory shifter into that gear also.But you get used to it. Also gear changes seem alot smoother with it that they ever did.
PC080018.jpg
 
Hi Calvin, Have you thought of running one of these?
1-4 Shift controllers
thats mine mounted in my prado, awesome bit of kit. Only thing is to get engine braking you have to pull your factory shifter into that gear also.But you get used to it. Also gear changes seem alot smoother with it that they ever did.
PC080018.jpg

Thanks for that.
Was thinking more along the lines of
SSv4
As I like to have the TCU do all the work..
And throw it in manual as and when required
 
Thanks for that.
Was thinking more along the lines of
SSv4
As I like to have the TCU do all the work..
And throw it in manual as and when required

Excuse my ignorance but what are these actually for?

I have never seen.

Usually I prefer a manual gear stick as per my landcruiser, but my new hilux is an auto.
 
Excuse my ignorance but what are these actually for?

I have never seen.

Usually I prefer a manual gear stick as per my landcruiser, but my new hilux is an auto.

These units take control of the auto...
Some are just glorified switches and some and stand alone fully programmable TCU's.
The auto trans in the KZJ78 is electronically controlled.
The trans is an A340 series auto....(same as an AW4 in the Jeeps)
This trans is used in many Toyotas...From cars to our light duty 4x4's and Hilux's.
Its controlled either via a stand alone TCU or as in my case its part of the engine ecu unit.
Now that I have bypassed my engine management (mechanical injector pump)
The ECU now has to only drive the transmission but its playing up with all the missing sensors from the old pump.
 
Thanks for the explanation.

For the mechanical fuel pump conversion do you not need larger injectors?
 
Thanks for the explanation.

For the mechanical fuel pump conversion do you not need larger injectors?

Don't need to change injectors, the 1KZTE and 1KZT are identical apart from the pump.
If you were to fully work it for racing, big intercooler, big boost (30psi plus) then bigger injectors would be part of the equation.
 
Quick update...
I have finished off the pump install and decided to manualise the auto in the short term....Need to save up for the Supra Shift...
This uses diodes and the neutral switch to drive the solenoids...
And the gear lever....
You get 1st thru 3rd the od switch for 4th and switch for torque lock....
Also I have got rid of the TPS sensor and moved the line pressure lift cable directly to my throttle quadrant....
Here is a link with more info....
A340 Auto manualising completed | New Zealand 4wd Forums Offroad Express
 
Good thread! ive just perchased a 1kzte manual surf to replace my ageing 2lte auto one. i was just wondering what boost you guys are getting away with? my 2l runs 12psi and was thinking of setting the kz to the same, would this be ok? also does the standard kz pump have any adjustment in at all, like say, a 2lt pump, or is it like a 2lt-e pump that u cannot adjust and its runs a boost-fuel compensator setup? any help would be appreciated! oh and im from akl too, always looking for new poeple to go out 4x4in with!
 
The 1KZTE pump is like the 2LTE pump....e being electronic.
The 1KZTE boost depending on the market it was sold in can range from 9 psi to 14psi...
It fuel cuts when boost hits about 15 psi....So that's all you will get....
I am now running 20psi boost with my "manual pump" but if you want any more you really need to change turbo's as the factory one starts to get inefficient and creates more heat.
 
Quick update...
I have finished off the pump install and decided to manualise the auto in the short term....Need to save up for the Supra Shift...
This uses diodes and the neutral switch to drive the solenoids...
And the gear lever....
You get 1st thru 3rd the od switch for 4th and switch for torque lock....
Also I have got rid of the TPS sensor and moved the line pressure lift cable directly to my throttle quadrant....
Here is a link with more info....
A340 Auto manualising completed | New Zealand 4wd Forums Offroad Express

Why not just use the 1kz manual gearbox and be rid of the auto completely?
I have a manual and its excellent, the 1kz auto is not so responsive. Fair enough you have the manual fuel pump now.
 
Why not just use the 1kz manual gearbox and be rid of the auto completely?
I have a manual and its excellent, the 1kz auto is not so responsive. Fair enough you have the manual fuel pump now.

Basically at this point in time its $$$$.
Its going to cost me $1500 to $2000 NZD to do a gearbox swap...
That includes one piece flywheel, clutch, gearbox with transfercase etc etc.
That's if I can find one, bit rare in this part of the world.

With my new setup it pulls nice.. better then before. Just playing with the boost compensater to get it all to come on as soon as I can off idle.....:mad:

Happy with it thus far, but if a manual setup came along I might jump ship.....
 
Yes, all those parts at up in the end. The gearboxes are becomming more expensive here too. At one stage I even had a good spare one but sold it.

Just a quick estimate knowing the Malaysian prices, I doubt there would not be much left over from 2500NZ$.
 
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its more cost effective to buy a wrecked written off 1kz surf and just this theive the gearbox then resell motor, can get one for around 2500 if u look around and be patient. thanks for the info kbush. ill wind my controller up to 13-14psi once ive got my intercooler done, just looking at repainting at the moment. then ill be onto the mechanicals. what turbos do they run? ct12b? is that better or worse than the CT20 on my 2l, the 20 looks larger, but it is top mounted so its in ur face. would you be keen to go out wheelin some time? ive got a few mates with everything from surfs thru to v8 jeeps and crazy lil zooks


*Edit oh and if u were looking at doing a manual swap i can get you the box and gear for a pritty reasonable price. got a deal with a wreckers thru work. i was getting surf diffs for $120
 
Surf manual box won't fit in the landcruiser. Need the R151F box from landcruiser.

Ct12b is better than the ct20.
 
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Yeah the Surf trans wont work, will bolt upto the engine but the transfercase is wrong....
And you cant mate up the cruiser transfer-case to the surf box....
 
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