1997 Land Cruiser 40th Anniversary Edition build (1 Viewer)

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Build thread to document all things I have done to my cruiser, I have bought the cruiser in Arizona in 2015 and shipped it to Russia where we went for the road trip to Magadan ( famous road of bones ) to visit grandma. That turned into amazing adventures for three months.

Below is what I have done so far, just to mention that I don't have any mechanical experience neither did I work on any cars prior to purchasing cruiser.

Engine:

Suspension:
  • The car came from the crowd around @LandCruiserPhil in Arizona and the suspension setup is the same as almost everybody else there. OME 850J/863 at the beginning. As I added weight I then switched to 868 which is the biggest rear coil available from OME. The coils are matched to the extended OME shocks, I don't have any plans on changing this as that proved to be a very reliable and good option.
  • Had regeared to 4.88. This was done by Ken Zouk and he did a very good job and did not have any issues with that. I have Aussie Locker in the rear and an Eaton e-locker in the front.
  • Complete rebuild of the steering box, I had to do this twice. The first attempt was done by the Texas offroad guys, unfortunately, the steering was very loose, decided to buy the worm valve ( not sure if that is the correct name ) and rebuild the box one more time. It comes with the 105 shaft.
  • 315 Hankook DynaPro - these are fantastic tires. We did not have any issues on the big trip and I will just stick to these.
  • New tire rods
  • Rebuilt the hubs prior to the big trip
  • Extended breather for the front and rear differentials
  • Changed all suspension bushings
  • New OEM brakes, with remanufactured calipers, new brake hoses
Body:
  • TJM front bush bar ( T15 ) with unknown winch
  • Kaymar rear bumper with tire carrier and 4x4 labs arm for the jerry cans
  • Prinsu design roof rack
  • LRA extended main tank ( 140l )
Interior:
  • ClearView drop slide ( easy slide )
  • ARB outback drawers
  • Speski barrier

Plan to do:
  • change the carpet to stockinteriors carpet
  • install the delta rear panhard bracket
  • install the delta shifter console
  • put Scheel-manns seats
  • change the front window motors
  • refubrish the A/C compressor and have somebody create the A/C lines
 
Nice that you still upgrading your Cruiser.
Your head gasket thread was the first one I referenced when I did mine.
 
Nice that you still upgrading your Cruiser.
Your head gasket thread was the first one I referenced when I did mine.
Thanks, well without the help of local Land Cruiser guys I would not make it, also the famous @IdahoDoug DVD helped with that project. But yes, definitely good that even we, one banana guys can tackle jobs like that.
 
Took Boris for a ride, what engine this 1HD-FTE. Well, I remember going on I-70 and having big lorry trucks passing me over. Now I can go 90 MPH on the hill, something I never could do with bare 1FZ-FE.

On the other side, I did not do correctly the pickup on the LRA tank, last week after the pressure wash the engine died on the highway, well I thought that it was the water but it turned to be that I probably did not extend the pickup tube for LRA tank so I run out of diesel. Scary.,
crujza_trip1.jpg
 
Nice rig. 👍
A couple quick questions...
  • Had regeared to 4.88.
Just curious, was the regear done in the t-case or axles?
  • Complete rebuild of the steering box, I had to do this twice. The first attempt ... the steering was very loose, ...decided to buy the worm valve ( not sure if that is the correct name ) and ... the 105 shaft.
Did doing so fix the looseness? Not that one has to work with the other. I'm just chasing the same thing.
 
Nice rig. 👍
A couple quick questions...
  • Had regeared to 4.88.
Just curious, was the regear done in the t-case or axles?
  • Complete rebuild of the steering box, I had to do this twice. The first attempt ... the steering was very loose, ...decided to buy the worm valve ( not sure if that is the correct name ) and ... the 105 shaft.
Did doing so fix the looseness? Not that one has to work with the other. I'm just chasing the same thing.
Hi,

Gearing was done on the axle,had to buy pinion and ring for that.

For the stearing I had to buy the valve assy 44120-60180 and yes the sloppiness is gone.
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Ordered the OEM corner lights as PO did put some Chinese ones. Also Plasti dipped the grill so bought a new emblem for the grill.
 
When I received the radiator back in 2015 I did know nothing about the cars, not sure what it was for I just ripped of the cushion on top. Well after six years I bought the cushion on the race car shop and put it back.

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As I am a bit paranoid about what could mess up regarding the LRE tank, I had my friend come over and create the skid plate for the trans and LRE tank. If anybody wants to create the same for the LRE tank, send me PM and I will send the step file for that.

trans_cover.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • TLC_SK_01 (2).pdf
    96.1 KB · Views: 50
When I received the radiator back in 2015 I did know nothing about the cars, not sure what it was for I just ripped of the cushion on top. Well after six years I bought the cushion on the race car shop and put it back.

View attachment 2693085View attachment 2693086

I actually replaced mine recently with a 5/8 hose pushed between the radiator and core support.
 
So received all goodies from the US ,waited for the shipped container for a while but it's worthy.
Planted seat brackets
Delta Panhard relocation bracket
Delta shifter console
Heavy duty swaybar links and other stuff
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I have a question regarding the boxattached to the speaker,would it be ok to actually remove it as I want to get rid of the speaker at the back also
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@Jorgito

That's the amplifier for the rear speaker. You should be able to unplug it and remove it and the bracket entirely with no issue. Looks like someone cut/disconnected and then spliced in a connection (twisted wires) to a new speaker at some point. I can't tell if the other speaker is still around but if you still want to run a speaker in that position you'll want to test/keep the amp. If you don't want a speaker in that area I'd just unplug the amp and remove the whole bracket and speaker(s).
 
Removed the amplifier for the back speaker. Also had the ECU connected to the torque app and can finally check at least the coolant temperature.


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