1997 FZJ80 Rehabilitation (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,792
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Is it time for a new throttle cable?

Many need replaced. I thought mine was fine until I started having a slight stick at idle. After changing it, it is smooth as can be and it fixed my cruise control issue of randomly shutting off.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
413
Location
Pensacola, FL
I think I mentioned this above in one of the posts, but maybe I left it out. Yes, I just installed a brand new OEM accelerator cable. The pedal response isn't the issue - at least not in terms of being "sticky". It's smooth, it just seems to run out before the engine gets past 3100 rpm. I'll look at the trans cable and check the FSM for adjustment. Hopefully that fixes it.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
413
Location
Pensacola, FL
Now my cruise control cable, that sucker is crispy..but I'm not worried about it right now. The current issue wasn't related to cruise control.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
413
Location
Pensacola, FL
OK so looking ahead to the rest of the remaining maintenance (bushings and brakes) I'm at a bit of a crossroads. The 80 is back together and running well. I'm still going to fiddle with the transmission cable on the TB but other than that the engine related stuff is done for now. The part where I'm stuck, mentally at least, is what to do "first" out of the remaining jobs. Here's what's left:
1.)Replace all suspension bushings and relevant hardware
2.) Install Landtank caster plates
3.) Rebuild brake calipers
4.) Install new OEM soft lines (all 7)
5.) Install new Advics master cylinder
5.) Install new rotors
7.) Optional axle and knuckle service (have the wheel bearing and knuckle service kits - just not 100% sure if I need them.)

So the question is - what first? I have a bit of a darty tendency at highway speeds when hitting uneven pavement/small bumps. It's not as bad as when I bought the vehicle thanks to adjusting toe and the set screw on the steering gear box. I imagine that the new bushings and caster plates will help but it's possible that there's something else wrong. I was going to inspect the TRE's and try to evaluate the health of the wheel bearings using a couple threads here on Mud. If I don't find any play in the bearings I was just going to top of the knuckles with grease and call it a day. I have to remove the old rotors but I don't see any reason to swap everything out right now unless I suspect play in the bearings. Is that a reasonable thought? Comments welcome from those of you that have dealt with similar situations.

My thoughts on the order of precedence are as follows:
1.) Check for play in wheel bearings
2.) Check torque on steering arm nuts
3.) Inspect TRE's
4.) If no issues in steps 1-3, top off knuckles with grease
5.) Pull calipers off truck for rebuild
6.) After calipers are rebuilt, replace soft lines with new and replace rotors with new
7.) Install new MC
8.) Reinstall calipers and bleed brakes
9.) Ensure brakes are fully bled and working properly
10.) Pull suspension links and arms one at a time, cut and press old bushings, press in new bushings, reinstall, rinse repeat
11.) Install caster plates when reinstalling front radius arms, weld in place per Landtank instructions
12.) Make sure to NOT torque suspension links and arms until truck is back at ride height

Anybody see holes in this plan? I'd like to smooth the wrinkles BEFORE I begin rather than ruin these new parts or doing it bass-ackwards and cursing a blue streak that can be heard a couple blocks away.
 

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