Build 1995 80 series build- a rolling black hole where money disappears

[reklund5]

I like those side mouldings, is Leland selling those or was it somethign he had and didn't need. I am lookig to doa respray this year and would do those if my other idea doesn't work out.

He had 'em and didn't need them. They're widely available on eBay from overseas.

 

[Brindleboxer]

I have seen a couple listings for them when I was researching my possible idea but but if he was making them I would want to support a community member before the outside world.

 

[reklund5]

I have seen a couple listings for them when I was researching my possible idea but but if he was making them I would want to support a community member before the outside world.

That'd always be my preference too!

 

[Montana Cruiser]

That'd always be my preference too!

I have seen a couple listings for them when I was researching my possible idea but but if he was making them I would want to support a community member before the outside world.

There is a fella here on Mud that is/was working on some reproduction pieces, but progress has been slow. I agree, always like to support community members when I can!

N

Thread 'Collector edition/40th anniversary trim'

Oct 20, 2023

Hello,

I own a collector’s edition 80 series & after searching all over for new side moldings. With no luck I’ve decided I’ll just make new ones.

Researching here, I’ve read that there are two versions available & they’re both not very good. Ive read there is the overseas version for the Vx models (larger) and another thinner set that have 4 wheel drive script on the front door moldings. The correct moldings for these models would be a non script version & that’s what I plan to make. The rear quarter panel moldings will have the cutout for the rear reflectors. These will be sold as a...

• Norcal510
• 80 series collector side moldings trim vx models
• Replies: 100
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Posted these photos over in @COS80 thread regarding the charge circuit. He'd inquired about using a diode in place of the 7.5A charge fuse to increase the alternator output to more like 14.0-14.5VDC to make AGM batteries happy. In many modern cars, the charge fuse is in the sense wire circuit of the alternator, and adding the diode in the proper orientation increases the alternator output a bit, as the diode has a voltage drop across it. That in turn lowers the voltage on the sense wire circuit, and the alternator charges at a bit higher rate to compensate. This diode trick doesn't work on the 7.5 charge fuse of an 80 series, as that fuse is on the charge warning lamp circuit, not the sense wire. I whipped up a little harness to test a theory without cutting any wires. Using the appropriate connectors and an inline use holder, I made a harness that plugs into the alternator and into the factory harness and adds a diode to that sense wire.

THIS IS AN EXPERIMENT and I'm not recommending it as a permanent installation to anyone. Thats my disclaimer. Anyway, on with some pics.

View attachment 4113428

View attachment 4113429

Hey Ryan, I am NOT very well versed on electrical, but am curious if what you made here is the same idea as something I added to my GX460? When I moved to an AGM on the GX I came across this voltage booster and it seems to be doing it's job, no issues over the last year or two.

Voltage Booster PRO "The O.G." (5th Gen 4Runner & GX460)

VoltageBoosterPRO is a user adjustable, plug and play, diode modification with an inline fuse so that you can increase your alternator voltage to optimize your battery charging.

voltageboosterpro.com

 

[reklund5]

Hey Ryan, I am NOT very well versed on electrical, but am curious if what you made here is the same idea as something I added to my GX460? When I moved to an AGM on the GX I came across this voltage booster and it seems to be doing it's job, no issues over the last year or two.

Voltage Booster PRO "The O.G." (5th Gen 4Runner & GX460)

VoltageBoosterPRO is a user adjustable, plug and play, diode modification with an inline fuse so that you can increase your alternator voltage to optimize your battery charging.

voltageboosterpro.com

Yes, same exact idea. The little device you linked just has a one or two diode option depending on the switch position. Mine is simply a single diode inline to the sense wire of the alternator. The later models like your GX actually run that sense wire through the fuse box, so you can easily add a plug and play module like that. On the older 80 series, that fuse only runs the charge warning lamp circuit, so adding a diode won't change the alternators sensed voltage and cause it to increase the charge voltage.

 

[reklund5]

Been fighting a (very) intermittent blown fuse for my seat heaters. If you go back in the thread, I went to great lengths to wire them as the factory would have- using factory pins and switches with aftermarket Rostra heater elements.

Had my favorite upholstery guy peel back the drivers leather today and supplied him with new elements thinking it was just a faulty aftermarket part. Turns out my ass exceeds the gvwr of the seat frame and it cut the element.

 

[reklund5]

The money pit gets deeper....

Went to Moab, did some light wheeling, had all sorts of fun. Noticed some weird pops and clicks when the center diff was locked. Thought for sure it was the 360k birfs finally giving up from the sound of things from the drivers seat. My buddies pinpointed the noise to the right rear wheel area. Got home and started poking around to find the noise. Wheel bearings are less than a year old, brakes are good, didn't really find anything visually wrong. No choice but to start taking things apart. Crap.

Started by pulling the wheel and axle shaft. Everything was tight but I found one of the dowel pins on the hub pulled out when I removed the axle shaft. That's weird. Usually those suckers are really snug in the hub.

A closer look shows it had broken some time ago and its jagged edge was making the noise when the drivetrain was a little bound up ( like when the CDL or rear locker was engaged )

Now the questions are:
How do I best extract that broken piece from the hub?
Assuming hub is wallowed out, how do I repair it?
Nuclear option is RCVs and ARP studs.

I think I must've broken it on Rubicon last year, as I found the axle flange nuts a little loose and some gear oil leaking when we got to the springs. I snugged it up and wheeled home without issue, and then replaced the wheel bearings on both sides and all the seals (last July, about 6k miles ago). I don't remember seeing anything amiss with the dowels when I did that work. Either the dowel was fractured and stuck in place then or I overlooked it.


For now, it's together without one dowel. For around town use, it's just fine. Gotta fix it sooner than later tho.

 

[baldilocks]

The idea of RCV’s being indestructible was shot full of holes yesterday when @Broski posted pics from sand hollow of a rear RCV that snapped at the diff splines. The stock shafts can take a beating. You could source some dowel pins then take your hubs and shafts to a machine shop that can bore proper sized holes in both. Perhaps run 4 to 6 dowels per side unless the black hole gets its way with a shinny set of expensive axle shafts all the way from Rockford, Illinois.

 

[reklund5]

Been tinkering with small stuff while I wait on the machinist to setup some rear hubs for my RCV rear axles.

Got a wild hair and whipped up a hidden trailer wiring plug, tied in with zero cuts to the factory wiring because I'm a sick sick man. Added a Redarc brake controller in the rear and a remote switch up front. Not bad I’d say.

Now I can be douchey and tow my Supra on my 'loominum trailer to a car show