1992 Hiace 4wd RZH119 ex-Firetruck

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After following for hours a track in the bed of a wadi, I camp right in the middle of the canyon (track continues like that all the way up to the plateau).
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As the sun disappear I could hear/see people on foot paths on the side of the cliff... probably going back to their villages. Crazy way back home.
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Morning coffee
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Getting out the wadi bed to side track


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All the way up to a nice gravel road on top of the plateau at 2000m altitude.
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Didn't took it but seems the road up the plateau is kind of epic on its own style also.
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inspiring as always.
 
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Oh boy. This desert boy approves. Looks like epic desert camping.
 
I was half expecting to see a Jawa or two in the pictures.
 
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While I was pushing a bit to arrive to this spot, by a very hot day with cab ventilation in full blast, that I got the only breakage of the trip... The blower quit working...


So next morning I went on dismantling the dashboard...
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Those metal frames run along the entire dash so not sure how you are supposed to remove the blower if you need to change it...
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But hopefully for now this is not the source of the issue... Applying direct 12V to the blower it works perfectly fine.


Oh and of course I brought a full box of tools and a full box of spare parts but I forgot my multimeter so was quite limited in what I could test.
Fuse was good, relay clicked, can't be the resistor as high speed isn't working either...

So had to fall back to the old way for the end of the trip...
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Since I'm back home I tested everything I could with a multimeter... I have continuity on every cables, breaker is good, 12V coming to the relay, good ground... I'm still not sure what is not working, the only think I see possible is that the relay click but is still bad inside... I need to make a mini test rig to test it.
 
Long time no post....
Sorry for never finishing the Morocco story :(

But I'm back with a new major upgrade for the Hiace... Making a custom auxiliary fuel tank (as nothing exist from aftermarket vendors).
Many problems to solve and complex shape to make to get at least decent capacity.
Luckily for the build I got the help of friend from 40 series club that is a boilermaker (the kind that created his own pop-up roof for his HZJ78 because he could 😁). For the problems it's on me to find solutions and take decisions... some discutable...

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A clue that I'm in the right place xD
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Getting the base shape
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As it is, if we didn't make any cut to this shape that would make 70L. That includes moving out the 4x4 actuators to make it as long as possible.

Cut for the chassis traverse (-7L)
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Making the part to bolt the fuel sender (with closed thread)
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Added a notch for the rear left shock, goal was to be able to replace it without removing the fuel tank.
Interfaces for fuel sender, inlet (using Toyota original part), breather, and evaps ventilation are added.
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I know the breather should be way higher... But we will see during placement what were our option and the problems we face here.

Pickup tube
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Tank partitions
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Adding a tank plug (re-using the OEM one again), a reinforcement for the pump mount, and an extra filling breather that for now is not opened (it's a backup if current setup is too problematic with the air trapped).
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Closing the reservoir
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Time to solder everything
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Adding a bash plate under and in front of the reservoir if ever it was to scratch on the ground or receive projections
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Time to test the reservoir with water
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We connected (or closed) everything like if it was installed. Filling the water to the top was ok (even if it slow down a little bit once over the breather level). Air was getting out by the 2 EVAP ventilation in high points. Now once in the vehicle those will be connected to the charcoal cannister and I'm not too sure how much of a resistance this will create... They will also be connected with the same EVAP ventilations from the main tank so I also hope that by filling the aux tank first the air may go to the main tank through those EVAP vents if charcoal cannister create too much blockage (but FSM specify to test it with 0.4bar and that it should blow freely through it).
Last option would be to open the 14mm breather in the rear (near the pump) and connect it to the main tank breather... but it would need to create a low point on the line to get under the chassis, so liquid would permanently stays in it. It could also be an issue as the current plan is to pump the aux fuel in the breather of the main tank to transfer it, so would need to make sure we don't pump in closed loop from aux to aux...... Also in steep incline fuel could get from aux to main by this line without and intervention.

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OEM Hiace filler
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Pump connects into the main tank breather hose to transfer fuel
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Just had to do a notch in the protective cover and it almost looks like original x)
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Now the filler... Obviously the first idea was to create a Y on the original filler at the rear left. But we had to a accept reality and this is way too tight to fit a double inlet, even more fitting it to place. Actually even the original filler tube I'm not so sure how it's installed, that's a hell of a tetris.
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This is the placement of the reservoir under the chassis. As you can see it's surrounded by chassis rails, and as the Hiace (as every almost vans) is a uniframe construction, the body is soldered directly on the chassis. This means there is no gap to pass between the chassis and the frame as a regular 4x4 with separate chassis. So we had no way to get a filler breather from top of the reservoir to inlet without a low point... either we create a low point where liquid will be trapped or we place it mid-height to pass under the chassis...
The is the question of where to get out, on the right you can see the step of the sliding door, which is immediately continued by the leaves spring support, then the wheel arch. So there is no easy way to get the filler out on the side of the body...
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So we had to take a decision... and decided to have the auxiliary filler (technically) inside the vehicle and going through the step.
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(better grommet will be added for main tube)
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Note that we used here an original Hiace inlet tube, almost the same than the one for my main tank (only difference this is one from a diesel so no reducer inside).

I had removed my internal setup for this project so you can't see it but the tube is not going out in the middle of the living area of the vehicle, it is inside my side cabinet, where was my grey water jerrycan until now.
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The plan is already to have the water filler on this face (once I'll install a dedicated water tank inside) so this area of the cabinet will basically be a full technical area accessible from outside.
Note that the original fuel cap is not supposed to vent out but just in case I'll build a kind of box around the inlet pipe, that will seal with some rubber against the sliding door. And in the bottom part (where you can see some kind of door held by 3 bolts getting inside the chassis) I'll add a vent.


I know lot's of controversial choices here but we didn't find better ones!

Now I have to test it and verify the tank ventilation is ok to fill it full. Just a few bits are missing... a second 6mm T to connect to original EVAP line, a little electrical modification to route my cables correctly, and my 2nd fuel cap I forgot in my spare parts stash...
 
To finish this serie (until I test it in a few days) I'm at least quite happy with how the tank sits, it's flush with the body
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Hard to see it if you don't lie on the floor xD
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Front sub frame, transfer case, and rear diff are way lower than the reservoir so should not take too mush of a beating off road or get ripped of x)
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Outstanding work sir.
Was really pulling for you in the World Cup.
Well, not just you, I have some pretty thick French heritage, so France as a whole.

Good to see you back around here.
 
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