I have a 1983 FJ60 with 2F-294K miles-OEM Carburetor and new OEM mechanical fuel pump-tachometer does not work. My 60 stalls when it goes to idle. It will start and run when choked, but stalls out as soon as choke is pushed in. It will also drive, but stalls at stop signs, etc. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, charcoal cannister, and the ICS. I have 12v to ICS plug and both old and new unit "click" when supplied power. I replaced ICS because I thought that it might not be working, in spite of click. All vacuum hoses have been repaced with silicone hose in the last 10 years. Do I need to rebuild the carb?
1983 FJ60 stalls on Idle
- Thread starter yewtawkid
- Start date
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Is your fuel bowl halfway on the sight glass at all times? Your idle circuit could be blocked even though you ICS is working. Have you tried providing 12v directly to the ICS via a jumper wire to the + terminal of your battery?
- Thread starter
- #3
Fuel bowl is at half way before and after. I haven't looked with it choked. I will run direct to battery tomorrow. I assume that the only way to remedy a blocked idle circuit is carb rebuild? Thank you!
Blocked idle circuit clean is through carb rebuild. You could try spraying some carb cleaner through the ICS port to see if it drips out below the throttle blade which might be hard to see. Does not hurt to try it. Or try forcing some compressed air through ICS port
Easiest answer is a vacuum leak, given that it runs when choked. Could be brake booster or intake gasket or carb base or ?? but would be pretty obvious once you find it. Get some carb or brake cleaner and get it idling choked and see if you can get the revs up.
This problem keeps popping up over time… the emissions control unit ( under the dash ) under certain conditions, can open the circuit to the ICS on the ground side not the power side. Somebody will chime in with which wire in the control unit needs to be connected to ground permanently.
- Thread starter
- #7
I read about that in a few other posts. Wouldn't the clicking and the fact that I have 12v dc to the plug rule that out?
Could it be the timing?
I didn’t elaborate because as you have already read, this is usually a intermittent issue. The real culprit is the emissions control unit messing up, usually because of poor solder connections on the circuit board.
Does not hurt to reflow solder on the connectors. I had the same issue but it didn't cause the rig to die at stoplight, just some intermittent rough running at partial throttle.
Also doesn't hurt to check timing.
I also vote for vacuum leak.
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
I have had the same issue and have been trying to troubleshoot it over that last few weeks.
You have fixed the issue with some carb cleaner in the idle circuit?
Also, not to hijack your thread, but would the vacuum show low on the gauge because the idle is so rough? My vacuum wasn’t to spec, but it wasn’t running well either.
You have fixed the issue with some carb cleaner in the idle circuit?
Also, not to hijack your thread, but would the vacuum show low on the gauge because the idle is so rough? My vacuum wasn’t to spec, but it wasn’t running well either.
- Thread starter
- #14
My issue was not intermittent, but it did slowly surface. Prior to "cleaning" the idle circuit, I did replace fuel pump, filter, charcoal cannister, and solenoid(ICS).
When you removed the 'old' ICS, was the small O-ring on the tip all there?
I ask because that ring can disintegrate and block the idle circuit and it's difficult to clear without pulling the carb. You might try an 'Okie Rebuild' or 'Italian Tune up', (calling it whatever racist trope is appropriate
) which involves revving the engine up then putting a gloved-hand over the carb to smother it and let the engine die. 'Sometimes' the sudden vacuum can dislodge a circuit blockage.
To eliminate a malfunctioning emissions computer, you can supply 12v directly to the ICS with alligator clip or spade, and ground the white wire directly to any good ground, then run the Truck and see if it stalls. If no, problem is in the control circuit for the ICS. If yes, it's elsewhere.
I ask because that ring can disintegrate and block the idle circuit and it's difficult to clear without pulling the carb. You might try an 'Okie Rebuild' or 'Italian Tune up', (calling it whatever racist trope is appropriate
) which involves revving the engine up then putting a gloved-hand over the carb to smother it and let the engine die. 'Sometimes' the sudden vacuum can dislodge a circuit blockage.To eliminate a malfunctioning emissions computer, you can supply 12v directly to the ICS with alligator clip or spade, and ground the white wire directly to any good ground, then run the Truck and see if it stalls. If no, problem is in the control circuit for the ICS. If yes, it's elsewhere.
- Thread starter
- #16
The o-ring was present in the old ICS. It seemed like the first two "squirts" of carb cleaner had more resistance than the subsequent ones. I will dub it the "Hungarian Rebuild." I feel like I am relatively diligent in changing my filter and using ethanol free fuel. However, at 43 years old and 294,000 miles, I feel like a rebuild or desmog and replace is in the future. Thank you for your help.When you removed the 'old' ICS, was the small O-ring on the tip all there?
I ask because that ring can disintegrate and block the idle circuit and it's difficult to clear without pulling the carb. You might try an 'Okie Rebuild' or 'Italian Tune up', (calling it whatever racist trope is appropriate
To eliminate a malfunctioning emissions computer, you can supply 12v directly to the ICS with alligator clip or spade, and ground the white wire directly to any good ground, then run the Truck and see if it stalls. If no, problem is in the control circuit for the ICS. If yes, it's elsewhere.
Don't talk about me like that in public please
You should hear what he says in private!
I have started to have the same problem on my 60.
I would start it with choke as I remove the choke it would suddenly die.
As I drive around it stumbles a bit then as I drive a little longer like it suddenly let goes away and idles perfect.
I haven’t removed the ICS to clean it but I hear it clicking.
Instead I have a couple extra emissions computers and switched it out.
I wanted the engine to cool off and see if there is a difference changing the emissions box.
I remove the backing of the old one I took out and all my solder points are good.
I would start it with choke as I remove the choke it would suddenly die.
As I drive around it stumbles a bit then as I drive a little longer like it suddenly let goes away and idles perfect.
I haven’t removed the ICS to clean it but I hear it clicking.
Instead I have a couple extra emissions computers and switched it out.
I wanted the engine to cool off and see if there is a difference changing the emissions box.
I remove the backing of the old one I took out and all my solder points are good.