1980 FJ40 Carb Rebuild - Questions

[DTSkyCop]

Hello, I have recently begun rebuilding my 40's carb due to an Idle Circuit issue. My carb began not maintaining idle once the choke was pushed in all the way. I tried several Okie-Carb Rebuilds with no luck. I solicited the help of my son, and a liberal dose of carb spay / cleaner was utilized but the carb would not maintain an idle once the choke was pushed in fully.

After watching PinHead's video's on Youtube several times, I decided to rebuild my card myself. That was why after all, I bought the vehicle, because I wanted to tinker with it and be able to do these things to it when necessary.

That said, I have ordered my Carb Kit to rebuild my carb, and this weekend pulled my carb from my vehicle. I sat down like PinHead did in his video's and began from the top removing pieces of my carb and placing them into containers. I took many pics along the way and I am glad I did. Here is why:

I am not sure if this is the is the original 1980 Carb on my vehicle? I followed my FSM to the letter and found a couple differences that have me puzzled! Here is my carb and I would like to know if in fact it is a 1980 FJ40 Carb?

When I opened the carb up, I only found (1) Slow Jet in my carb despite the FSM stating there was a second and PinHead's video's showing (2). I nevertheless continued with my dis-assembly and only found one check valve ball inside the accelerator pump hole. I will attach a picture of the inside of my carb so you can see my setup as well but am only limited to (5) pics on this initial message!

Then, upon removing my Idle Solenoid I discovered a strange solenoid tip. It appears someone cut the end of the plunger off? Not sure why or what this accomplished, but I will include a picture of that as well.

Any help you can give me on this would be appreciated. I am not sure if I missed something entirely on this as I stripped my carb down, but know there is only (1) slow jet in my carb and ALL the FSM's I have seen say I should have (2)... Where is the second one? Why is there only (1) check vale ball when my FSM indicates a min of (2). What year is my Carb?

Any help would be appreciated:

 

[DTSkyCop]

Additional photos:

 

[Tanker120]

Your part number on the Carb 2110-61025 is for a 1980 Carb

Also the Stamp 0A29 1980 Jan 29th I believe

 

[DTSkyCop]

Ok thanks Tanker120, my 40 is Jan 1980 build... Guess it is the original Carb afterall! Just not sure why is does not have some of the other items above... Second Slow Jet, Idle Solenoid plunger cut?? It ran great before letting it sit for a few months due to a neck injury, but then started stalling out after sitting for a few months as stated. I Figured it was the Idle Circuit after reading everything I could on it, and the fact I used Ethanol fuel because that is what is prevalent here in AZ. I am using Seafoam regularly too, but the "damage" was done and the 40 will not stay running without the choke slightly pulled out!

Oh well, I feel better about the fact it is a 1980 Carb and not something "aborted" on my rig!

Thanks for the information,

 

[Spike Strip]

Idle solenoid was prolly cut because it wouldn't idle and the *fix* was to take the ICS out of the equation by cutting the tip so the circuit is always open. The ICS is supposed to prevent 'dieseling' of a hot engine by closing the Idle Fuel Circuit at engine shutoff. (no power, ICS closes)... New units are available.

Removing the 2ndary was possibly an attempt to get more WOT performance (?)or maybe it was a case of a case of beer while wrenching

You may at this point want to send to Mark A. or Jim C. for a proper rebuild 'cuz who know what else the enterprising PO did...

Is your truck smogged?

 

[MoCoNative]

One check ball, the smaller of the two lives in the bottom of the large accelerator pump well with the big spring in it, under the "G" clip. The second check ball lives in a second much smaller well. The well on yours is inline with the accelerator pump well and the primary barrel. The accelerator pump plunger pulls fuel in the bottom while on its return stroke, thus pulling the check ball up off the floor of the well. When pressed downwards the flow is directed out the nozzle hanging high in the primary barrel. Notice between these two points on that diagonal path there is a silver round plug looking piece. On the older carbs, this piece which has a small spring and a slightly larger check ball in it freely pops out of the bore when you take the top of the carb off, often to never be seen again. Yours has a small punch ping next to it, retaining it in the carb body. Unless you have rust and corrosion issues on the other check ball, all is probably fine in there, they are all fairly large passages. I would blast it out real good and leave it as is. Otherwise if you just gotta see it, I suppose the little ping could be reversed to release the ball and spring retainer.

Yes, your slow yet is missing, should go on that far right hole in your image above (not the top air horn hole, but the one next to it) maybe it got forgot at some point.

 

[GA Architect]

Not to hijack this thread, but a photo the OP posted showed what appears to be a rubber o-ring stuck on the carb's top cover gasket (see photo below circled in red). This o-ring would sit above the aluminum plunger. When I took a '76 carb apart, it had a rubber o-ring stuck to the gasket in that exact same location. However, I carefully watched Pin_Head's carb videos, and video #6 doesn't show installing this rubber o-ring. Question, should the rubber o-ring be installed between the top of the aluminum plunger and the top plate gasket? If so, what is it's purpose? I reinstalled with the new small o-ring that was in the kit.

 

[DTSkyCop]

Idle solenoid was prolly cut because it wouldn't idle and the *fix* was to take the ICS out of the equation by cutting the tip so the circuit is always open. The ICS is supposed to prevent 'dieseling' of a hot engine by closing the Idle Fuel Circuit at engine shutoff. (no power, ICS closes)... New units are available.

Removing the 2ndary was possibly an attempt to get more WOT performance (?)or maybe it was a case of a case of beer while wrenching

You may at this point want to send to Mark A. or Jim C. for a proper rebuild 'cuz who know what else the enterprising PO did...

Is your truck smogged?

Yes my 40 is smogged... I checked the far hole and there is a cast in the body of the center section of the carb where the second slow jet would go. However, that hole is only drilled approx. 1/4" to maybe 1/2'' max down. There does not appear to be anything stuck in the hole either, you can see the hole pretty clear. After it gets done soaking in the carb dip, I will take some additional pics and post.

I have also ordered a NEW Idle Solenoid. It appears that maybe someone started to rebuild the carb but could not get some screws out or something and decided to stop. Some parts of the car were very dirty and other parts were pretty clean. The gasket on the top plat was clearly a newer gasket.

One check ball, the smaller of the two lives in the bottom of the large accelerator pump well with the big spring in it, under the "G" clip. The second check ball lives in a second much smaller well. The well on yours is inline with the accelerator pump well and the primary barrel. The accelerator pump plunger pulls fuel in the bottom while on its return stroke, thus pulling the check ball up off the floor of the well. When pressed downwards the flow is directed out the nozzle hanging high in the primary barrel. Notice between these two points on that diagonal path there is a silver round plug looking piece. On the older carbs, this piece which has a small spring and a slightly larger check ball in it freely pops out of the bore when you take the top of the carb off, often to never be seen again. Yours has a small punch ping next to it, retaining it in the carb body. Unless you have rust and corrosion issues on the other check ball, all is probably fine in there, they are all fairly large passages. I would blast it out real good and leave it as is. Otherwise if you just gotta see it, I suppose the little ping could be reversed to release the ball and spring retainer.

Yes, your slow yet is missing, should go on that far right hole in your image above (not the top air horn hole, but the one next to it) maybe it got forgot at some point.

Looking at the center section I thought that aluminum plate was supposed to come out as well but saw the stake holding it in. I am glad nothing seems to be missing then, just poorly cleaned for sure. I am not going to on-stake the hole to get that out, it seems fine for sure.

Not to hijack this thread, but a photo the OP posted showed what appears to be a rubber o-ring stuck on the carb's top cover gasket (see photo below circled in red). This o-ring would sit above the aluminum plunger. When I took a '76 carb apart, it had a rubber o-ring stuck to the gasket in that exact same location. However, I carefully watched Pin_Head's carb videos, and video #6 doesn't show installing this rubber o-ring. Question, should the rubber o-ring be installed between the top of the aluminum plunger and the top plate gasket? If so, what is it's purpose? I reinstalled with the new small o-ring that was in the kit.


View attachment 1213276

Definitely do not mind any question I can learn from. As your question gets answered, I learn too something else!

 

[JohnnyC]

You say your running ethanol fuel... You mean 10% ethanol petrol mix correct? Or are you saying you use e85?

 

[Pin_Head]

It looks like Toyota deleted the secondary slow jet in 1980. It is not that important in the secondary, so don't worry about it.

The accelerator pump outlet check ball is under the circular aluminum plug next to the accelerator pump outlet. The other ball is under the e clip at the bottom of the pump well.

Someone cut the end off of the idle fuel solenoid because they were having problems with it. You might expect to find problems at idle due to a faulty ECU that controls the solenoid or due to an intake vacuum switch which can cause the idle speed to oscillate from high to low. When you replace the solenoid, if it won't idle, then either the ECU, it's temperature sensors or the wiring are faulty. If it oscillates, then the vacuum switch is bad. The EZ fix for these problems is to permamently ground the yellow solenoid wire, but it won't idle well at low engine temperatures and it may backfire out the exhaust pipe during engine braking. This is the electrical equivalent of cutting the tip off.

 

[DTSkyCop]

You say your running ethanol fuel... You mean 10% ethanol petrol mix correct? Or are you saying you use e85?

It's the 10% blend that Arizona uses. Definitely not e85 Fuel at all.

It looks like Toyota deleted the secondary slow jet in 1980. It is not that important in the secondary, so don't worry about it.

The accelerator pump outlet check ball is under the circular aluminum plug next to the accelerator pump outlet. The other ball is under the e clip at the bottom of the pump well.

Someone cut the end off of the idle fuel solenoid because they were having problems with it. You might expect to find problems at idle due to a faulty ECU that controls the solenoid or due to an intake vacuum switch which can cause the idle speed to oscillate from high to low. When you replace the solenoid, if it won't idle, then either the ECU, it's temperature sensors or the wiring are faulty. If it oscillates, then the vacuum switch is bad. The EZ fix for these problems is to permamently ground the yellow solenoid wire, but it won't idle well at low engine temperatures and it may backfire out the exhaust pipe during engine braking. This is the electrical equivalent of cutting the tip off.

Now I have something to look forward to after I get the carb rebuilt. I was just puzzled when I looked at the book and it said I should have had two Slow Jets and watching your videos you removed two etc. I thought something was wrong! But, I will say, before sitting, my vehicle ran great... It starts right up every time with about 2-3 presses on the pedal with the choke on. Never had any issues running or driving before this, but when I took my carb off to rebuild, noticed the main jet was black in color. Here is a picture of it... It cleaned up with all the black coming off so obviously it backfired etc but I never had any issues like that at all. See pic - The left jet cleaned up exactly like the right jet... It was NOT Black in color originally...

I guess I had other issues than just a Carb rebuild, so I will have to figure it out when my kits arrives tomorrow and I get the carb rebuilt and put back onto my rig. Thanks for the information and I will now be able to get this ting back together and address the others issues next if there are any. I can also say that it looks like the PO had grounded out the solenoid to the body of the carb but I thought he had done that because the wire broke or something. If you see in the front view of my carb, there is a cut to the White and Black wire of the solenoid and it is attached to the screw on the case of the carb.

Thanks again for the information, I will let you know what I find!

 

[65swb45]

If you have carefully kept track of where everything came from, you will also note that the primary jet is LARGER than the secondary jet. This is one more anomaly specific to the 79-80 carbs.

 

[DTSkyCop]

If you have carefully kept track of where everything came from, you will also note that the primary jet is LARGER than the secondary jet. This is one more anomaly specific to the 79-80 carbs.

Yeah, being that this was my first carb rebuild, I felt pretty confident after watching the PinHead video's, to give it a go. However, realizing that the pictures in the book were only so clear and left a lot to interpretation etc, I took a lot of pictures. I have pictures of all the parts as they came off and their respective screws etc. As I looked at the primary jets however, they appeared to be exactly the same size. Right down to a # 1 on the top as you look down into the carb. I will double check the sizes again, but as I said, they seem to be identical. After I got them cleaned up, they are even the same color etc. Like I said, I will double check this, but know pretty much where everything came from and will get them back to where they came from. I will of course, read the FSM as I go and ensure it coincides with what I am putting back where etc.

Thanks for the suggestion here,

 

[65swb45]

Those are the emulsifiers. The jets are behind the access plugs on the front of the carb.

 

[DTSkyCop]

Oops, see there, and I thought I was doing so good talking all this carb talk, slow jets, primary jets Etc.. Lol My bad! I noted the jets and respective numbers Etc. Thanks for the clarification on that and sorry for the confusion. Darn PinHead videos. I thought he called'em jets... lol

Those are the emulsifiers. The jets are behind the access plugs on the front of the carb.

 

[Pin_Head]

I call them nozzles. Some people call them venturis, but the Venturi is the hole that they sit in. The emulsifier tube is attached. The jets are small screws with a hole in them that meter fuel to the nozzles.

 

[DTSkyCop]

I call them nozzles. Some people call them venturis, but the Venturi is the hole that they sit in. The emulsifier tube is attached. The jets are small screws with a hole in them that meter fuel to the nozzles.[/QUOTE

Crazy question here, I used the same Berryman's Chem Dip / Carb Cleaner you talked about in your video and soaked my parts. After rinsing them in hot water and using an old toothbrush as I was rinsing them, it seems as though the Zink Plating has now vanished from the parts that were coated....

Well, that by itself would not be a big deal (I guess) but it seems as though some of the parts are now rusting, or got rust spots on them... And pretty quickly I might add as they were drying, and I was wiping them off to dry them... Clearly what I am worried about is them being now "raw" unprotected metal, and if they get wet, obviously rust is probably going to affect these parts as they seem to have done now. Is there ANYTHING I can / should do to these parts to protect them from rust in the future. What should I use? Any thoughts / recommendations??

Thanks again for the help!

 

[Pin_Head]

Berrymans won't remove any plating, but it removes all the oil and related stuff like paint, so give the steel and iron parts a coating of light oil to prevent rust.

 

[65swb45]

Berrymans won't remove any plating, but it removes all the oil and related stuff like paint, so give the steel and iron parts a coating of light oil to prevent rust.

Agreed. Perhaps what you thought was plating was shellac.

 

[Pin_Head]

I have noticed that the new Cal EPA and CARB compliant Chem Tool is not as good at cleaning as the old stuff. Hopefully the resto of the country can still get the good stuff.