1980 FJ40 2F… Dying Under Braking ** FIXED** Now An Updating and Gremlin Chasing Thread

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charliemeyer007 said:
I like Pic 1 better, but the tooth in between would be better IMHO
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Agree… been struggling to get it on that one. Can get it lined up and dropped in but not get it to go all the way to engage the oil pump.

I need an extra hand to bump the starter so it will spin around and drop into the oil pump slot .
 
here's mine...

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If you’re shooting for in between when you pull the distributor up/out take a screwdriver and turn the oil pump slot in the direction you need. Try like 1/4” ajustment. Because the cam drive gear will start the rotor shaft rotating before before it even touches the oil pump driven gear.
 
I’m putting this out there for everyone who comes along afterwards. Check, double check, and triple check that the distributor is 100% of the way down. If it is not it’s potentially a $3000-$5000 mistake.

If it’s a different distributor I’d even go so far as to disconnect the coil and crank it over and check your oil pump is pumping oil. Now I have some ideas on how to do that, but I don’t want to steer anyone wrong.
 
+1 for having a direct read oil pressure gauge. If the engine sat for a long time, you stabbed in a dizzy - you pull the coil wire and spin it over until it builds oil pressure - put wire back on and start it up. You can pull the plugs and give each jug a shot of Marvel's for long sitting engines.

Just the other day I was on my way to town - ammeter is suddenly reading -20, WTF! Nice place to pull over in about 3 miles. Open the hood, don't see anything exciting. The battery wire press on connector on the alternator was loose. Pressed it all the way back one - Boom ammeter reads 0 at idle with both heaters on Yea easy fix.

When dad taught me to drive, it was look at the road, look at review mirror and look at the instrument panel then look at road - run that loop all the time - nothing sneaks up on you from behind and you will notice overheating before it happens and no electricity before the battery is dead and low/no oil pressure before it causes engine damage.
 
Open the port on the bell housing and pull the valve cover and then check the valves like you are adjusting the valves. Between the 3 you can make sure your timing is right.
 
ASO544 said:
Which of these looks correct for the final dizzy location. The black mark to the left of bolt hole is where the #1 wire is located .

This is a large cap FJ60 dizzy setup

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View attachment 4043613
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It doesn't really matter which position it's at, as long as it's installed on #1 cyldr at tdc on the compression stroke, it engages the oil pump, and you can properly adjust the timing to your desired degree. If the body of the distributor interferes with something preventing you to adjust the timing, then reinstall the distributor.
 
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If you want to crank the engine from the engine bay you can get a remote starter switch as @charliemeyer007 described or use a screw driver if you can reach the starter solenoid. 1st be sure the vehicle is in neutral. If the key is in the on position or power is supplied to the + side of the coil the engine will start. If the key is in the off position it won't.

Below is a pic of a GM solenoid, yours maybe different. Note there is an R and an S next to the 2 small posts. The R terminal indicates run, or ON on the ignition switch. It may have a wire attached to it or not. The S terminal is start. Your solenoid may or may not have similar markings. The S terminal wire comes from the ignition switch and that wire supplies power when the key is turned to the start position. You'll need to id your start wire and terminal. To activate the starter you can lay a screwdriver across the positive batt terminal post and touch the start terminal as pictured below. Be sure to leave the key in the OFF position or the engine can start. Be careful not to touch a ground with the screwdriver when doing this or sparks will fly. Using a remote switch switch is safer.
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Got her stabbed in between the 2 pics using a remote start!!!

Quick question on the sight glass on the carb. Once started this is where the fuel sits in the sight glass. Seems slightly high… what are the effects of too much fuel in the bowl?

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It looks a little high. It could make it run rich, especially on a rough road - sloshing. I would bend the float tab to get it half way in the window. When people take the trouble to provide spec's, you should take the trouble to apply them. Valve clearance I set to loose side - better to hear them than to burn them. I run way more advance in the summer than they specify. I install any gasket with fiber wet, as in soaked in warm water for like 1/2 an hour - because a soft gasket lets the high spot dig in easier.
 
ASO544 said:
Seems slightly high…
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Yup, slightly. I'm no expert, don't do what I do, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Drive it for a while, park in different spots, keep an eye on it, think about maybe tweaking the float height next time you have it apart. You won't have any drivability issues due to that. Sometimes, with Landcruisers, pretty close is good enough.
 
Still fighting a hard to start once cranked. Was curious if the high level was possibly flooding it slightly once sitting.

If cold, the level is mid to lower in the window and cranks very easy. Once started the level goes up to pic and even if barely warm it’s a struggle to start.
 
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