Build 1978 FJ40. Waking up the ol’ girl!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Had a little time to work today. Was hoping to spend some major time this weekend but life got in the way...

I bought new calipers rotors and master cylinder. Figured I could just replace those in about two hours. How hard could it be… Take the tire off, take the caliper off pull the rotor off put the new one on… Right? Oh no! Bit different from our other cars. Didn’t know you had to pull the hub And the rotor is attached. As I said earlier, this is all new to me. Anyway, I guess it’s a good time to rebuild the knuckles! Could use some new grease and some cleaning!

At least the shocks look good. Phew! I’ll save some money there! πŸ˜‚

8D950235-E984-42D9-9B1D-58846686810A.jpeg


9F267D88-47F8-41E0-9D5F-C3370AA446CF.jpeg


AF47F640-080F-49CF-ACE4-AE81747A6D51.jpeg


D071AEC3-2CD6-4A61-9E95-A8AC6E91E76B.jpeg


AA2A17C4-5432-4911-9883-1FA4932DDF59.jpeg
 
Went out to tinker on a few things then this happened. Decided to pull the radiator and take it to the local radiator shop. One of the last of its kind. Then I thought the shroud and surrounding bits looked pretty bad so a couple hours with the wire wheel and some paint...then ordered all new tie rod ends and thinking maybe I should pull the steering box and send it to Marks Off-road for a rebuild...it’s been leaking. So this is how it happens.... 😁

3454FFE5-22C1-4D84-A6BF-483DBF224942.jpeg


07BD81DA-8E51-4828-A388-158AB32FB792.jpeg




1C0F0798-8190-445C-8122-B003920AE605.jpeg


08899840-8C6F-4F38-9112-52566FDF8EEF.webp
 
In β€œthe parlance of our time” (taken from β€œThe Big Lebowski”) it’s called β€˜mission creep!’ On MUD, we also call it ’going down the rabbit hole.’

Almost 40 years ago the local TV station did a special on 4WDs and interviewed some members of our local club. When they asked one of the wives about her husband’s hobby, she basically said β€œI love it! Many wives have to wonder where their husbands are nights and weekends, out at a bar, playing pool, or who knows what. Me, I know right where I can find mine: under the hood or under the truck.”

Have you read my story β€œCleaning The Mini Blinds”?

If you decide you want to send the steering box down, please wait until after the 15th. I’m hoping to take a little time off next week. Right now I’m rebuilding the last of the steering boxes I got from @Midwest Landcruisers 30 years ago (I wasn’t joking @Dallas Todd ) as well as a really nice specimen from @thorslc1977.
 
Last edited:
Pace is a little slow right now. Waiting for a big box of parts to arrive. Was able to get out and do a few things though. Pulled off the old water pump without breaking any bolts. That was a win. Removed the homemade trailer hitch and aftermarket tail lights, and broke off every single bolt holding the bumperettes on. Every single one. Had been PB blastering them for a couple days and even tried some heat. Oh well. Most exciting thing though is I cleaned up my valve cover! Look how shiny it is!

hopefully arriving soon…water pump, knuckle rebuild kit, hoses, battery tray, new thermostat housing and thermostat, distributor cap and rotor..Some other things I can’t remember.

Arrived...Front calipers and rotors, Tire rod ends.

in the shop getting work...Carburetor and radiator

It’s going to get busy very soon! I’m a bit nervous about rebuilding the knuckles but I’ve been watching videos and reading posts on mud. Can’t wait to get the thing on the road so I can enjoy it outside of the shop! (and most likely discover what else needs expensive attention!)

oh and I taught my daughter how to use a grinder! Fun for us both!

3D076C21-ED4B-4B02-A128-F170B0CC6002.webp


1520B065-CBF4-4B4C-9542-4456065C6DCC.webp
 
Started taking apart the knuckles today...couple questions.

1. There is nasty gear oil inside of the axle housing or whatever you call it. Any way to clean that out or just change the differential oil frequently once I get it running?

2. How much do I need to polish up the β€œballβ€œ part? (Pictured)

2. I’ve got Warn hubs that are obviously leaking at the front. Just watched a video on rebuilding them and it looks like a pain in the butt. Guy on Craigslist has a brand new set locally here for $190. Should I just bite the bullet and get new Warns or spend a little more and get Aisins...or just man up and rebuild mine?

Thanks!

81B24BDF-64B1-4844-ADC2-EC5C994076C9.jpeg


577962A1-B5F7-435A-90FF-B042D1E0B378.jpeg


0387D093-0E1D-4B82-9D75-658B5E05C3FE.jpeg
 
Started taking apart the knuckles today...couple questions.

1. There is nasty gear oil inside of the axle housing or whatever you call it. Any way to clean that out or just change the differential oil frequently once I get it running?

2. How much do I need to polish up the β€œballβ€œ part? (Pictured)

2. I’ve got Warn hubs that are obviously leaking at the front. Just watched a video on rebuilding them and it looks like a pain in the butt. Guy on Craigslist has a brand new set locally here for $190. Should I just bite the bullet and get new Warns or spend a little more and get Aisins...or just man up and rebuild mine?

Thanks!

View attachment 2236010

View attachment 2236011

View attachment 2236012

If you already have the axle shafts out, you can always pop the diff off and wipe out the inside. Now would be the best time if everything is apart. You will need to drop the driveshaft. It will also give you a chance to visually inspect everything. If the oil was just dark, I wouldn't really bother. If it was chunky or glittery, there is more of a problem. Either way, I would change the oil after a bit to clean it all out.

You shouldn't need to polish the birfs too much I wouldn't think. If they are super pitted they will leak more, but they look pretty ok.

Honestly, it doesn't matter too much for hubs. You could go Aisins or Warns, but I know I wouldn't want to rebuild them.
 
Thanks!
When I change the oil in the front differential it wasn’t chunky or glittery just greenish and nasty… Maybe I’ll just run it and change it a few times frequently... Seems like everything I’m doing leads to three more jobs…

63739A2C-E8A8-44C2-A4E4-9C6F4EDF535B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Thanks!
When I change the oil in the front differential it wasn’t chunky or glittery just greenish and nasty… Maybe I’ll just run it and change it a few times frequently... Seems like everything I’m doing leads to three more jobs…

View attachment 2236049

That looks ok. Just a little dirty. I'd run it for a couple hundred miles then change it.
 
Another question. Can I just clean the CV joint (soak in solvent) and re-grease it without dismantling? Again it looks like a little bit of a pain.

D43639DF-A164-4541-9873-6294F2CBB475.webp
 
Another question. Can I just clean the CV joint (soak in solvent) and re-grease it without dismantling? Again it looks like a little bit of a pain.

View attachment 2236090

Yes, you can. I use diesel. It works well. I know others use kerosene or other solvents. Just be sure to use a moly grease and pack the joints really well.
 
Started taking apart the knuckles today...couple questions.

1. There is nasty gear oil inside of the axle housing or whatever you call it. Any way to clean that out or just change the differential oil frequently once I get it running?

I wouldn't run that axle housing without a good internal scrubbing. Remove your diff. Soak rags in brake cleaner and shove them from the outer ends into the center section with a long wooden dowel. Then blast it out with cleaner. Everything will flow out of your front drain hole into whatever you're using for a catch basin. Re-seal and re-assemble - you'll be glad you did if you ever get gear oil into the knuckle housing (happens to the best of us).

2. How much do I need to polish up the β€œballβ€œ part? (Pictured)

The pitted area is where your knuckle wiper seal will be riding so I would address the issue. My approach has always been to de-rust in the least invasive way possible as I don't want to diminish the circumference of the "ball". Rust removing juice like muriatic acid, naval jelly, or some type of rust converter is fine. Then I fill the pitted areas with a little epoxy like JB weld or something. After that I lightly file/sand the ball smooth being careful not to score or gouge up the surface. The "ring" of wear is where the seal rides in most straight ahead driving. You really can't easily get that to go away but it depends on your determination. I've never had any problems doing this but YMMV.

Here's a crazy one: I once sandblasted the pitted ball ends on a knuckle housing and had a guy spray-weld it to build the material back up again.

2. I’ve got Warn hubs that are obviously leaking at the front. Just watched a video on rebuilding them and it looks like a pain in the butt. Guy on Craigslist has a brand new set locally here for $190. Should I just bite the bullet and get new Warns or spend a little more and get Aisins...or just man up and rebuild mine?

Not that hard to rebuild. You can do it at the bench in an hour or so. Good luck!
 
I wouldn't run that axle housing without a good internal scrubbing. Remove your diff. Soak rags in brake cleaner and shove them from the outer ends into the center section with a long wooden dowel. Then blast it out with cleaner. Everything will flow out of your front drain hole into whatever you're using for a catch basin. Re-seal and re-assemble - you'll be glad you did if you ever get gear oil into the knuckle housing (happens to the best of us).



The pitted area is where your knuckle wiper seal will be riding so I would address the issue. My approach has always been to de-rust in the least invasive way possible as I don't want to diminish the circumference of the "ball". Rust removing juice like muriatic acid, naval jelly, or some type of rust converter is fine. Then I fill the pitted areas with a little epoxy like JB weld or something. After that I lightly file/sand the ball smooth being careful not to score or gouge up the surface. The "ring" of wear is where the seal rides in most straight ahead driving. You really can't easily get that to go away but it depends on your determination. I've never had any problems doing this but YMMV.

Here's a crazy one: I once sandblasted the pitted ball ends on a knuckle housing and had a guy spray-weld it to build the material back up again.



Not that hard to rebuild. You can do it at the bench in an hour or so. Good luck!

Oh man!! Every job I start opens up two or three more! I want it done right though so I will look into that. Thanks!
 
Yes, you can. I use diesel. It works well. I know others use kerosene or other solvents. Just be sure to use a moly grease and pack the joints really well.
I've done that when I did the front end of my 80 series. Soak and sprayed it out with diesel.

Yep just be sure to make sure you get it completely packed with grease since you won't have it separated to do so.

Ok thanks guys
 
Back
Top Bottom