Builds 1978 FJ-40 R2.8 Cummins Build - "Mater"

[rossl]

Rear tire carrier is now completed. The latch was a little tricky to get the fitting right so it closed properly, but I think it will be a nice clean look and get the tire off the body.

Seems like I am getting far less done under COVID-19 than I expected - re-assembly of the front axle is next on the list but I'm trying to figure out what I believe is a slightly bent housing.

 

[rossl]

Trying to revive my own thread to get enough motivation to get going again. I've confirmed the front axle housing has suffered a long hard life in the hands of the PO which has pushed it beyond being repairable. This has delayed progress getting the front axle re-assembled, among other things happening during COVID-19. I've been envious for all those build threads making major progress in the last couple of months.

Good news is I have now acquired a new (used) front axle housing, so the plan this week is to clean and prep it and get the 40 back on a rolling chassis.

 

[rossl]

Stripped the housing and ready for a good clean and paint.

 

[rossl]

Fresh paint on the front axle housing:

And then started in on the front bumper as well:

 

[rossl]

Project progress has been slow. Cleaning up the axle I noticed that there was more grooving than I would have liked. I decided to reference this thread:

Neglected Balls (Rusty & Pitted Knuckles) - UPDATED w/Results

Sadly my balls were neglected for way too long and now the healing needs to begin ;). This is the donor 1980 FJ40 front axle after tear down for a knuckle rebuild. I did the usual search for suggestions and remedies but what I found was 4+ years old so I'm wondering if there has been any new...

forum.ih8mud.com

And opted for a very light amount of JB weld to help reduce the groove. I applied a small coat taping off sections I didn't want JB weld on then sanded smooth.

Also planning on installing a different style of knuckle seals to help too:
Trail Safe Toyota Knuckle Ball Polyurethane Wiper Seals

Also discovered that the axles for the rear axle are both just a little long. I was able to grind one down to the right length, but the e-locker is prevented from engaging. After looking at the front axle (which is also going to receive an e-locker), I discovered the back splines are ~3.8" but the fronts are over 5". So now I need a replacement axle or a place to extend the splines:

And managed to break the gasket for the front diff, so that delayed further installation progress at the moment.

 

[rossl]

I had a question about the bumper and thought I'd post more info. I wanted something like the HFS bumper, but 3/8" was crazy overkill and didn't quite have the compact design I wanted for the winch mount. Ideally I wanted the fairlead to be recessed and flush. I came up with the following specs and sent them off to a local metal shop to bend out of 1/4" stock:

Then as seen in post 44 I cut two additional pieces to offset the 8274 back and one in front to offset the fairlead:

Then cut holes for lights, stock bumper mounts, and some tow points:

Stay tune, this is probably going to get some paint over the holidays.

 

[rossl]

Build update: new rear axle has arrive so that will get out in next weekend. The rear splines weren’t long enough for the e-locker. New one from Dutchman Axle should be good to go. Tie rod built and installed. Wheels are started - working on figuring out the right size and hub caps.

Also, I think this just turned into a Cummins R2.8 build. I’ve spent a while researching the last few months and settled on updating the engine. I love the idea of the stock inline 6, but also am keen on the better fuel economy, power, and reliability of an electronically managed diesel. Placed an order for one and the H55F adapter from Quick Draw Brand. I may have bitten off more than I should have, but it is going to be fun.

Next is working through some electrical and brake systems while waiting for the new parts to arrive.

Anyone have coolant system suggestions for the R2.8? Radiator/intercooler combos which work well?

 

[rossl]

Question for the group: is there a difference between parking brake attachment to the firewall between 1976 and 1978? I'm moving things between tubs, and the parking brake bolt pattern seems totally off such that the 1978 parking brake doesn't attach to the firewall. Parts look the same between years.

9" of snow in the northwest earned me some much needed shop time. In the last couple of weeks I've pulled the entire wiring harness from the vehicle in preparation to rewire. I've considered if I want to keep the stock wiring harness and fixing previous owner issues or simply start clean with a new harness. I've decided on completely re-wiring for two reasons: first the previous owner messed with a number of sections of wiring. Headlight switch is pretty mangled, and several points a random patch has been implemented. Taking the harness out made me realize it wasn't as bad as I had feared, but still not great. Second, I wanted to integrate several items which aren't in the original harness - including some fog/driving lights, communications gear, Dakota Digital cluster, vintage air a/c, seat heat, etc. By the time I'd finished I would have a custom harness anyway.

So last week I started pulling wires and figuring out a dash layout. Honestly, I wanted to keep things as close to stock as possible, but instead have settled closer to the resto-mod side of things "looking" stock. I'm about 10% through wiring changes trying to match the harness with stock wiring. Adapting the harness is fairly straightforward, just one circuit at a time. Harness I ended up with is Kwik Wire, mostly because it just builds from a Dorman 85668 fuse block which means I can add/remove fuse block banks as needed. This also moves me from stock fuses to standard automotive fuses. It also fits well in the stock fuse block location, but I still have some fitment issues to resolve before I'm happy with the mounting location (mainly for relay/flasher locations).

Dash changes include:

Adding new defroster vents for the '78 defroster ducts in the '76 tub.
Adding a fog light switch above the headlight switch left of the instrument panel to trigger off road lighting
Adding push/pull lighted locker switches to the right of the instrument panel thanks to @ToyotaMatt (more on that later when I dig into the locker ECU)
This necessitated moving the brake/seatbelt warning lights further to the right
Hazard, wipe/wash, and cigarette lighter locations all stock
Adding a Dakota Digital DCC-4000 display to replace the stock heater switches in preparation for the vintage air install
Removing the ash tray and planning on updating with communications gear

 

[tstepp920]

Question for the group: is there a difference between parking brake attachment to the firewall between 1976 and 1978? I'm moving things between tubs, and the parking brake bolt pattern seems totally off such that the 1978 parking brake doesn't attach to the firewall. Parts look the same between years.

9" of snow in the northwest earned me some much needed shop time. In the last couple of weeks I've pulled the entire wiring harness from the vehicle in preparation to rewire. I've considered if I want to keep the stock wiring harness and fixing previous owner issues or simply start clean with a new harness. I've decided on completely re-wiring for two reasons: first the previous owner messed with a number of sections of wiring. Headlight switch is pretty mangled, and several points a random patch has been implemented. Taking the harness out made me realize it wasn't as bad as I had feared, but still not great. Second, I wanted to integrate several items which aren't in the original harness - including some fog/driving lights, communications gear, Dakota Digital cluster, vintage air a/c, seat heat, etc. By the time I'd finished I would have a custom harness anyway.

View attachment 2588130

So last week I started pulling wires and figuring out a dash layout. Honestly, I wanted to keep things as close to stock as possible, but instead have settled closer to the resto-mod side of things "looking" stock. I'm about 10% through wiring changes trying to match the harness with stock wiring. Adapting the harness is fairly straightforward, just one circuit at a time. Harness I ended up with is Kwik Wire, mostly because it just builds from a Dorman 85668 fuse block which means I can add/remove fuse block banks as needed. This also moves me from stock fuses to standard automotive fuses. It also fits well in the stock fuse block location, but I still have some fitment issues to resolve before I'm happy with the mounting location (mainly for relay/flasher locations).

Dash changes include:

Adding new defroster vents for the '78 defroster ducts in the '76 tub.
Adding a fog light switch above the headlight switch left of the instrument panel to trigger off road lighting
Adding push/pull lighted locker switches to the right of the instrument panel thanks to @ToyotaMatt (more on that later when I dig into the locker ECU)
This necessitated moving the brake/seatbelt warning lights further to the right
Hazard, wipe/wash, and cigarette lighter locations all stock
Adding a Dakota Digital DCC-4000 display to replace the stock heater switches in preparation for the vintage air install
Removing the ash tray and planning on updating with communications gear

Send me the dimensions you used for the defroster vent holes, please, and thank you

 

[rossl]

@tstepp920 at the moment I just used a paper template to copy from one dashboard to another. Looks like the overall hole is 35mm.

Measuring the actual position is hard since there aren't any great reference points. It's about 21mm above the dash notch:

And about 19mm from the flat surface of the side of the dash to the edge of the cutout:

I assume the passenger side is the same, but this is the drivers for the moment.

 

[rossl]

More wiring today and more media blasting. Also discovered that the steering column took a hard blow when I disassembled to swap ignition switches. I found the steering shaft bearing had tried to punch itself through the retainer toward the driver at some point, causing damage to the retainer, steering column, and steering shield. Managed to locate and order some replacements rather than drive myself crazy determining where to bend things back to. I’m not sure if the damage happened when the PO destroyed the front axle, but there are for sure old stories this 40 is hiding.

 

[rossl]

No major progress to report other than somewhere in Ohio there is an R2.8 slowly being packaged and shipped.

 

[rossl]

Finally got the engine. So much to do now.

 

[BarnFab]

Congratulations I am sure you will love it and it is such a tempting conversion will be intereested to see how you go. I have the Old 3B in my truck and it surely could use some more pepper from time to time

 

[rossl]

It's been a while since the last update, but things have been drastically slowed by availability. Engine arrived but lacked a couple key pieces. First was the adapter from a 40mm to 35mm pilot bearing, which took the machine shop time to make.

Pressed the adapter in:

Next was swapping the accessory drive from a lower A/C mount to a high mount to try to get more frame rail clearance. And apparently in the time I've ordered this stuff one of the belt tensioners has been placed by a new part number. Lesson one, info isn't simple to find from Cummins.

So after more research than it needed I think I have the accessories relocated:

Next order of business was to connect things together. I'm still missing some minor clutch parts at the moment, so this will have to all come back out again, but I figure I can do a dry fit and figure out placement to weld in motor mounts before pulling and putting it again together for real. At least motor, transmission, and transfer case have all joined up for the first time:

I'm hoping that the holidays will have a little more time to get this between the frame rails and positioned for install.

 

[rossl]

Got the motor roughly positioned today. Roughly.

I'll have to take a better stab and engine placement. Starting with the measurements referenced here: Builds - My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-r2-8-cummins-fj40-rj40-daily-driver-build.1130106/post-12625601

These numbers look pretty close to correct, although I do have a little work to reposition the power steering pump to fit properly. It looks like I should have enough room between the parking brake and the torque tube, ok placement on the shifter, and decent firewall clearance, but I'll need to double check everything once I get a little more time.

 

[rossl]

Ok, I'm a little stuck on engine placement, and looking for some collective help from those who may have done the swap before. I'm using the high AC mount mega bracket for the Cummins engine, and have the H55F sitting on the stock 1980's transmission crossmember (which somewhat places the transmission in the x, y, and z axis). The main issue I'm running into is the low pressure return line on the power steering pump, which is pretty much bumping straight into the side of the frame:

It looks like others have mounted the engine a little higher, but a little unclear in some of the pics:

Builds - My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build

Interior shot. I need to re-wrap the steering wheel with the right colour leather You look to be really close to firing up.

forum.ih8mud.com

@ArthurFJ @amico @Well Sorted as a few folks who threads I've used as reference, it looks like your placement might be a little higher and possibly offset to the driver's side slightly?

Moving the A/C compressor lower doesn't really help.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Take a look at how Proffitt's mounts the 2.8 in 40's. I'd try and replicate how they mount them.

 

[amico]

Ok, I'm a little stuck on engine placement, and looking for some collective help from those who may have done the swap before. I'm using the high AC mount mega bracket for the Cummins engine, and have the H55F sitting on the stock 1980's transmission crossmember (which somewhat places the transmission in the x, y, and z axis). The main issue I'm running into is the low pressure return line on the power steering pump, which is pretty much bumping straight into the side of the frame:

View attachment 2877199

It looks like others have mounted the engine a little higher, but a little unclear in some of the pics:

Builds - My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build

Interior shot. I need to re-wrap the steering wheel with the right colour leather You look to be really close to firing up.

forum.ih8mud.com

@ArthurFJ @amico @Well Sorted as a few folks who threads I've used as reference, it looks like your placement might be a little higher and possibly offset to the driver's side slightly?

Moving the A/C compressor lower doesn't really help.

I had the same issue with the High Mount AC bracket. If I remember correctly the power steering connection that has the conflict with the frame is pressed into the pump and can be carefully rotated, at least I did on mine. Hopefully it will not leak.

 

[handcannon]

Where did you get the rebuild kit and was it pretty straight forward? I really need to do this.