I believe I have the same ones...Kobalt brand from Lowe’s. Completing a door project on mine as well.
Builds 1975 frame off. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter brian
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The keys to the majority of good things in life right there.
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #304
so i have both doors on it now.
i went with city racer repo door seals.....i have mixed feelings on them.
9 some months later and a full summer, the sor sliding windows are freaking awesome.
the epoxy bed liner on the underside of the cap was a decent idea as well.....after it gassed off for a few weeks.
looking to replace the 4:11 rears in it with some 3:70s in a few weeks...thats going to turn it into an even better driver than it already is.
miles have been adding up, put close to 15k on it this year.
i went with city racer repo door seals.....i have mixed feelings on them.
9 some months later and a full summer, the sor sliding windows are freaking awesome.
the epoxy bed liner on the underside of the cap was a decent idea as well.....after it gassed off for a few weeks.
looking to replace the 4:11 rears in it with some 3:70s in a few weeks...thats going to turn it into an even better driver than it already is.
miles have been adding up, put close to 15k on it this year.
Last edited:
from who?
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #307
interestingly this pic was taken in almost the same spot(i like snowy cruiser picture taking apparently), albeit looking west vs looking east in the new pic......and before the park was developed, and with the pre restored version of the cruiser.....about 15 years ago.
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #308
fortunately all my business is in essential businesses, mainly dairy so the mind and guys stay busy there, but with all the weirdness in the world, i needed to keep myself occupied during slow days.
so i began "cleaning" up loose ends that were nagging at me.
i started off with replace the DS seat cushion that i bought years ago and never got around to....it's one of SORs high density dealies...you do not so much as sit in it, as on it.
also decided this was the year to finally swap over to the 3:70-1 rears that i threatened to do when i started this build...a couple years ago..
so i began "cleaning" up loose ends that were nagging at me.
i started off with replace the DS seat cushion that i bought years ago and never got around to....it's one of SORs high density dealies...you do not so much as sit in it, as on it.
also decided this was the year to finally swap over to the 3:70-1 rears that i threatened to do when i started this build...a couple years ago..
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #309
the rear had all the bearings replaced.
it was easier to get the front ready to go, as i didnt farm that one out, but i have yet to get in swapped over to the cruiser yet.
this was a few months ago, and i'm quite pleased with the change to higher gearing.
during the same time frame, the aftermarket door weatherstrip forced me to replace it with oem.
it was easier to get the front ready to go, as i didnt farm that one out, but i have yet to get in swapped over to the cruiser yet.
this was a few months ago, and i'm quite pleased with the change to higher gearing.
during the same time frame, the aftermarket door weatherstrip forced me to replace it with oem.
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #310
also during this time, some things i had previously done on the dash could no longer be left go.
the wiring harness from the 75 was hacked pretty good for a v8 conversion, that was in works or removed before i bought it back in the 90s.
so as a result of that i used the wiring harness out of 77 i had. some of the dash warning lights were not correct for the 75 vintage.
toyotamatt came into play here as well with a selection of lights, mostly leds.
so the 77 brake warning array was replaced. the erg light i had placed in the brake light loaction, was moved back to it's correct location below and left of the column. a quick easy rewiring job and a new led light was in place behind the now correctly located brake warning light, along with a switch from matt that works all of the time ensures that the light works. while doing some bulb work the dash knob light in the dash pad was replaced with another one of matt's led bulbs.
i also picked up one of his blue super bright bulbs for the high beam indicator lights
the wiring harness from the 75 was hacked pretty good for a v8 conversion, that was in works or removed before i bought it back in the 90s.
so as a result of that i used the wiring harness out of 77 i had. some of the dash warning lights were not correct for the 75 vintage.
toyotamatt came into play here as well with a selection of lights, mostly leds.
so the 77 brake warning array was replaced. the erg light i had placed in the brake light loaction, was moved back to it's correct location below and left of the column. a quick easy rewiring job and a new led light was in place behind the now correctly located brake warning light, along with a switch from matt that works all of the time ensures that the light works. while doing some bulb work the dash knob light in the dash pad was replaced with another one of matt's led bulbs.
i also picked up one of his blue super bright bulbs for the high beam indicator lights
Last edited:
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #311
since i've been on an electrical kick i decided now was the time to address the lack of a low speed setting on the heater box fan.
i had replaced the resistor during the rebuild with one that was recommended here, but i must have received a bad one as that didn't fix the issue. i went to order another, but they are no longer available from the often linked source here on the form...i did find this one from galco, and it's the same size and spec as the other, which required modification to the original mounting brackets...however this time the issue is resolved and after a 15 year or so hiatus the low speed works agaion.
a PO long ago locked this pad lock onto the parking brake, and while i've had plenty of opportunity to cut it off over the years, the fouled anchor on it is distinctive enough that i though i would let it on, so if one day that previous owner sees it, he could see the old truck is still around.
also thinking about replacing the well used fuse box with the 75's that appears to be in a better shape.
i had replaced the resistor during the rebuild with one that was recommended here, but i must have received a bad one as that didn't fix the issue. i went to order another, but they are no longer available from the often linked source here on the form...i did find this one from galco, and it's the same size and spec as the other, which required modification to the original mounting brackets...however this time the issue is resolved and after a 15 year or so hiatus the low speed works agaion.
a PO long ago locked this pad lock onto the parking brake, and while i've had plenty of opportunity to cut it off over the years, the fouled anchor on it is distinctive enough that i though i would let it on, so if one day that previous owner sees it, he could see the old truck is still around.
also thinking about replacing the well used fuse box with the 75's that appears to be in a better shape.
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #313
decided to take a swing at making a new insulator for behind the fuse block, which is now sporting one of city racers replacement covers.
the first go is pretty close, but not sure if the material thickness is going to be an issue. im going to check that with a junk harness i have laying around.
the first go is pretty close, but not sure if the material thickness is going to be an issue. im going to check that with a junk harness i have laying around.
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #314
Since I've been on an illumination kick I got the heater controls light sorted out with another one of @ToyotaMatt led bulbs as well his led bulb for the light switch.
Also picked up a set of city racer led headlights.
The real shame in all of this, with the longer daylight hours of late spring and summer....I dont normally do much driving at night.
Also picked up a set of city racer led headlights.
The real shame in all of this, with the longer daylight hours of late spring and summer....I dont normally do much driving at night.
Top Shelf Brian !
did you preform a Cluster Meter Light Shades Modification ?
or
is that simply updated LED bulbs on a untouched Meter as is .........
it appears non- stock bright lumens
did you preform a Cluster Meter Light Shades Modification ?
or
is that simply updated LED bulbs on a untouched Meter as is .........
it appears non- stock bright lumens
brian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #317
Figured one good turn deserves another...replaced almost every exterior bulb with an led light...didn't do the turn siginals because I didn't want to loose the old school click clack of the relay or the license plate lights..due in large part to forgetting about them.
Was difficult getting non star trek lense flare pictures.
Was even more awesome is the amp hardly moving when turning on lights with engine off.
All of the lights were direct replacement.
Was difficult getting non star trek lense flare pictures.
Was even more awesome is the amp hardly moving when turning on lights with engine off.
All of the lights were direct replacement.
Do you mind telling us about the foam you used on the seats. How did you cut it? I’ve heard using one of those old school electric knives works well. Never tried it though.
