Preferably OEM stuff, the hard part is finding it. Look for someone parting out a 83ish 60 series. Big cap dizzy, dented side cover and electronic igniter. I’m not sure on exact year range.
1975 FJ55 No Start, No Spark, No Understand
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Preferably OEM stuff, the hard part is finding it. Look for someone parting out a 83ish 60 series. Big cap dizzy, dented side cover and electronic igniter. I’m not sure on exact year range.
BeerM3
SILVER Star
Search DUI on this forum and you’ll find all kinds of threads. It’s a tight squeeze (that’s what he was jokingly referring to about denting the side rocker arm cover) but it fits. That said it’s one option and I’m not sure if it’s the best, but the PO put one on mine and it works great! I’ll hang up and listen to see if there are better options. 
^X2^
DUI is not oem... but, I replaced my oem dissy/coil/igniter, with a DUI dissy, when I realized my dissy vacuum advance module was leaking.
I couldn’t find a dissy replacement I liked, with a good advance module, and I really wanted a hotter ignition... so, I went with DUI.
The Toyota, vacuum advance version of DUI replaces the dissy, coil and igniter.
It doesn’t use a resistor... requires fully battery voltage and I didn’t need a dented side cover, on my ‘78... YMMV.
The DUI has a 2-wire connector... I used a relay, triggered (relay-86) by the black-yellow wire. Ground to relay-85. Battery+ to relay-30/51 and voltage-feed (relay-87) to DUI-feed.
The other DUI connector is for a tach, if you have one.
I also used DUI LiveWire (plug) wires.
Timing at ~12* BTDC, plugs gapped at .055”.
I couldn’t be happier... I’m now at 65mph, by the end of a freeway on-ramp.
Before, I was struggling to reach 40mph, to merge.
Now, I just carry spare DUI internals, on the trail.
THIS is the DUI I have.... but, for your ‘75.
HERE are the ‘75 choices.
If you look around, you might find a better price... I found mine and the LiveWires in the MUD classifieds.
DUI is not oem... but, I replaced my oem dissy/coil/igniter, with a DUI dissy, when I realized my dissy vacuum advance module was leaking.
I couldn’t find a dissy replacement I liked, with a good advance module, and I really wanted a hotter ignition... so, I went with DUI.
The Toyota, vacuum advance version of DUI replaces the dissy, coil and igniter.
It doesn’t use a resistor... requires fully battery voltage and I didn’t need a dented side cover, on my ‘78... YMMV.
The DUI has a 2-wire connector... I used a relay, triggered (relay-86) by the black-yellow wire. Ground to relay-85. Battery+ to relay-30/51 and voltage-feed (relay-87) to DUI-feed.
The other DUI connector is for a tach, if you have one.
I also used DUI LiveWire (plug) wires.
Timing at ~12* BTDC, plugs gapped at .055”.
I couldn’t be happier... I’m now at 65mph, by the end of a freeway on-ramp.
Before, I was struggling to reach 40mph, to merge.
Now, I just carry spare DUI internals, on the trail.
THIS is the DUI I have.... but, for your ‘75.
HERE are the ‘75 choices.
If you look around, you might find a better price... I found mine and the LiveWires in the MUD classifieds.
OEM.
It was designed to work with your engine.
It was designed to work with your engine.
No, it was designed to work with your engine.
I’m not a purist... I use what works best for me, 44 and the boys.
That comment was for Drew, in my opinion it would be a simple fix to get the pig going using all OEM parts, with info readily available in the FSM for help troubleshooting in the future.
I would be lost working on your rig!!!
I get your point Ryan... I’m just pointing out another approach.
Drew didn’t sound very receptive to used replacements, when he said,
“Replacement units are a) Used, and no guarantee they aren't trash as well. b) Obscenely expensive.”
Then, he asked, “Is there a preferred kit available?”.
The DUI is the only “kit” with which I’m familiar... and it resolved so many degradation/reliability problems for me... the vacuum module leak, providing improved power... the ability to drive above 10k’ without power loss and without fiddling with timing... no concern with igniter failure... a better sense of security, far off-road... etc.
I can point him to a new ~$50 oem coil... but, a new igniter, if available, is ~$250.
I understand y’alls desire to stay stock, but it’s not always the best approach for everyone... I refused to install a used dissy, to replace a dissy with a failed vacuum module. Nor was I willing to tear the vac advance canister apart, to try to plastic dip it, to fix the leak... Plastic dip has worked for others, but I drive solo, with my boys. I wouldn’t be comfortable with that fix.
DUI was my “fix”, after a LOT of research and I’m more than pleased with it.
But, I’m not asking anyone else to make that move... just like I don’t ask anyone to go to electric fuel pumps, or BOSS airbags, instead of a real lift.
I’m merely sharing what works for me... it’s simply another alternative to consider.
- Thread starter
- #48
So, since I was at an impasse, I decided to do some dissection.
First, the coil assembly as last running.
Then, I pulled the assembly off the PS apron
Anyone else notice something "not right" in that picture?
I got busy with my Vessel JS screwdriver, and dug into that bad boy.
That unit comes off with a single JS screw, and is as such:
A. WTF is that? The electrical current to the coil must transit it to the positive coil terminal. It has infinite resistance, so it is dead as a doornail. It definitely looks the part.
B. I'm assuming it is no longer produced, so is there a substitute, or is NOS available??
First, the coil assembly as last running.
Then, I pulled the assembly off the PS apron
Anyone else notice something "not right" in that picture?
I got busy with my Vessel JS screwdriver, and dug into that bad boy.
That unit comes off with a single JS screw, and is as such:
A. WTF is that? The electrical current to the coil must transit it to the positive coil terminal. It has infinite resistance, so it is dead as a doornail. It definitely looks the part.
B. I'm assuming it is no longer produced, so is there a substitute, or is NOS available??
- Thread starter
- #49
After poring though my FSM, I've determined it is part of the igniter assembly. I had earlier misidentified it as part of the ballast resistor (the parts manual projects the ballast resistor on top of the coil, whereas my model is on the side). The problem is, I've found no single picture that identifies this discrete part, but the wire wrapped, corroded part looks a lot like a part in the voltage regulator circuit on my 67 Mustang.
I've priced various igniter assemblies at $300+. All used. At this point, I will be researching other options. Any suggestions are appreciated, and I'm looking for a 1983-87 system at this time.
I've priced various igniter assemblies at $300+. All used. At this point, I will be researching other options. Any suggestions are appreciated, and I'm looking for a 1983-87 system at this time.
- Thread starter
- #51
The more I look at the DUI, the more I like it.
The best price I've found is Speedway, at $350, with Live Wires for $85.
As is evidenced by pics of my engine bay, nothing in there is really "stock" anyway. One more thing can't hurt, imo.
The best price I've found is Speedway, at $350, with Live Wires for $85.
As is evidenced by pics of my engine bay, nothing in there is really "stock" anyway. One more thing can't hurt, imo.
- Thread starter
- #52
Did you install the relay, or did your rig already have it available?
- Thread starter
- #53
I found this on a search of the forum:
- Thread starter
- #54
I cant vouch for the quality, but it looks very similar to the one I have. I cant imagine $59 buys a lot of quality, but you never know.
Electronic Distributor For Toyota Landcruiser 2F 4.2 3F 4.0 FJ40 FJ60 FJ80 Carbi | eBay
Electronic Distributor For Toyota Landcruiser 2F 4.2 3F 4.0 FJ40 FJ60 FJ80 Carbi | eBay
I’ve installed a relay every time I’ve added new components.
I found this on a search of the forum:
I posted that a number of times... it’s the best relay instructions I’ve found.
You don’t have to use Bosch... these relays are all similar (same terminals... either 4 or 5)... I feel Bosch relays are good quality.
This is a 5 terminal relay... just leave 87a unused.
- Thread starter
- #57
They ARE very clear. All I'd need is an inline 15 amp fuse in addition to the relay
They are a whopping $5. I think I could find that in change in my couch....
- Thread starter
- #58
Welp, after 11 days of struggle, angst, cursing and breaking a rib on the left side of my rib cage, (note to self; don't lean on the apron of an FJ55. Those things are SHARP and you can break a rib that way) I finally got Zeke to fire and run.
I bubba'd the timing using the "advance it until it dies and then dial it back a skosh" method, drove it around the block, parked it and then came into the house and had some vodka as well as some well deserved puppy kisses from Lela. My chest hurts like hell and I deserve the booze and the puppy love. My wife also made appropriately adoring noises and petted my chest, which she is darned good at.
The DUI works a treat. Also, the high idle now works when the engine is cold, and it drives like I gained a bunch of power. I'm wondering how much of my carb struggles were actually ignition related.
What I learned:
1. Get a quality ratcheting wire crimp. Nothing else works.
2. The DUI system appears to be good kit, though my oil pump dealio was clocked dramatically differently than the original, which is a monumental PITA. You have to use a long screwdriver to adjust it, stab in the dizzy, miss, adjust with screwdriver, stab in dizzy, miss, curse, etc. Wash, rinse, repeat, until it finally seats home, then re-enact the final scene from "Planet of the Apes" when you realize the rotor is no longer aligned correctly.
2(a) My problem with the kit is the terminal marked "BAT" doesn't look robust at all. Seems like that could get broken off pretty easily.
3. When in doubt, put in a new wire.
4. The DUI rotor would NOT line up precisely where the OEM one did. I struggled and struggled with this until an old timey mechanic friend asked me why I cared. The rotor doesn't care where it ends up, as long as the timing can be adjusted properly, so I just made sure the right spark plug wire went in the right place relative to the rotor and dialed it in once it got running.
I'll wait until tomorrow to get it timed to DUI specs. I've already put in new plugs, gapped to .055 as per recommendations.
I bubba'd the timing using the "advance it until it dies and then dial it back a skosh" method, drove it around the block, parked it and then came into the house and had some vodka as well as some well deserved puppy kisses from Lela. My chest hurts like hell and I deserve the booze and the puppy love. My wife also made appropriately adoring noises and petted my chest, which she is darned good at.
The DUI works a treat. Also, the high idle now works when the engine is cold, and it drives like I gained a bunch of power. I'm wondering how much of my carb struggles were actually ignition related.
What I learned:
1. Get a quality ratcheting wire crimp. Nothing else works.
2. The DUI system appears to be good kit, though my oil pump dealio was clocked dramatically differently than the original, which is a monumental PITA. You have to use a long screwdriver to adjust it, stab in the dizzy, miss, adjust with screwdriver, stab in dizzy, miss, curse, etc. Wash, rinse, repeat, until it finally seats home, then re-enact the final scene from "Planet of the Apes" when you realize the rotor is no longer aligned correctly.
2(a) My problem with the kit is the terminal marked "BAT" doesn't look robust at all. Seems like that could get broken off pretty easily.
3. When in doubt, put in a new wire.
4. The DUI rotor would NOT line up precisely where the OEM one did. I struggled and struggled with this until an old timey mechanic friend asked me why I cared. The rotor doesn't care where it ends up, as long as the timing can be adjusted properly, so I just made sure the right spark plug wire went in the right place relative to the rotor and dialed it in once it got running.
I'll wait until tomorrow to get it timed to DUI specs. I've already put in new plugs, gapped to .055 as per recommendations.
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broken ribs heal just fine by themselves - just don't cough or laugh: bad idea 
(don't ask me how I know
- taxi blasted into the driver side of my Hyundai back then 
)
(don't ask me how I know
- taxi blasted into the driver side of my Hyundai back then )