- Thread starter
- #101
Yes, and impressed you spotted that on the lower res pic. But looking at the shaft and the size of the bearing I am not seeing how it can fit?
1975 BJ40. Slow refurb underway.
- Thread starter Canarias
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Yes, and impressed you spotted that on the lower res pic. But looking at the shaft and the size of the bearing I am not seeing how it can fit?
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those don't fit the shaft
they go top and bottom of the knuckle
one under the steering arm .
and the other on the bottom under the bearing cap
the go along with the shims that should of come in the kit.
they go top and bottom of the knuckle
one under the steering arm .
and the other on the bottom under the bearing cap
the go along with the shims that should of come in the kit.
- Thread starter
- #103
ok great, that makes sense now. Ball joint splitter is still en route so not got the knuckles off yet. In general would you change wheel bearings at same time as a knuckle rebuild? There was some play but I think that can be dealt with by correctly tightening the nut. The actual wheel bearings are smooth and silent and I have been advised they are in good shape.
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i know it is recommended to change them while your in there you don't want to do the job twice .
but that being said i reused mine .they where in great shape .
but that being said i reused mine .they where in great shape .
- Thread starter
- #105
Truck still jacked up waiting for ball joint splitter so I can finish knuckle rebuilds. Also new tie rod ends in transit. Had a diesel mechanic friend with me so today we dealt with the diesel primer that has had a slight leak ever since I bought the truck.
The plunger was up and refused to lock down. So took the riser pump assembly off, assuming I would need to replace the hand primer. Once the riser pump was off and depressurised, the primer plunger would easily go down and lock into place, so I could have just fixed this by opening a bleed point to depressurise.
So put it all back on, bled it at the top of the fuel filter then at the inline bleeder on the injection pump, and fired the truck up. No more leaking.
Pics showing...
1: bleeding at the riser outlet (on top of fuel filter)
2: bleeding at the inline bleeder on injection pump
The plunger was up and refused to lock down. So took the riser pump assembly off, assuming I would need to replace the hand primer. Once the riser pump was off and depressurised, the primer plunger would easily go down and lock into place, so I could have just fixed this by opening a bleed point to depressurise.
So put it all back on, bled it at the top of the fuel filter then at the inline bleeder on the injection pump, and fired the truck up. No more leaking.
Pics showing...
1: bleeding at the riser outlet (on top of fuel filter)
2: bleeding at the inline bleeder on injection pump
- Thread starter
- #106
FInally... Ball joint splitter showed up this morning. Package text said "suitable for most small cars" but it went on, and ball joints just popped off in seconds. First knuckle off, got some cleaning up to do.
- Thread starter
- #107
Once the knuckles are done, i have new spring bushings to fit. The truck has the typical cruiser lean whereby the spring on drivers side has less arch than passenger side. Any reason i shouldn't switch the front springs from one side to the other?
Looks the same in any country!
- Thread starter
- #109
ok knuckle rebuild done, lots of cleaning and derusting and a bit of painting as I went. Kudos to coolerman for his pages on this job. I used coolerman and the factory manual as my guides.
I´ve got 5mm spacers for the front wheels and now have 4x matched off road wheels and tyres without the previous rubbing of the wheel on the tie rod ends. Truck has passed its statutory Spanish ITV and Ive given it a few gentle trial runs with none of the slipping, wheelspinning, clicking noises that cropped up sometimes before. Will give it a proper off road test in coming days.
I´ve got 5mm spacers for the front wheels and now have 4x matched off road wheels and tyres without the previous rubbing of the wheel on the tie rod ends. Truck has passed its statutory Spanish ITV and Ive given it a few gentle trial runs with none of the slipping, wheelspinning, clicking noises that cropped up sometimes before. Will give it a proper off road test in coming days.
- Thread starter
- #110
- Thread starter
- #111
Had an interesting off road session in the truck today, took it uphill on a pretty loose and rocky surface, basically to test its limits, and got it stuck. I thought that the front right wheel was spinning like has happened in the past, but without the previous clicking noises. This in a spot that the HJ45 pickup can handle OK as can a couple of other 4WDs I have driven there.
Anyway, this time I had someone with me so they got out to tell me exactly what was going on with each wheel. Turns out the rear two were spinning and the fronts weren´t moving. This was with transfer case selector in the 4L position. Tried the 4H position and got the same thing.
So both wheels spinning, rear prop shaft has to be spinning, so front prop should be spinning meaning front wheels should either be driving me or one or both of fronts should be spinning. Conclusion, I can´t be in 4WD.
Back into 2WD then firmly but not violently brought the stick down to 4WD making sure to hold it down while then moving it right to get 4L. And the truck just easily moved off. Tried out 4H and 4L and no problems so long as I make sure to really bring the stick down as far as it will come. So looks like I´ve got some slack in the way 4WD is being selected (or not selected). I haven´t investigated the mechanism and don´t want to get into taking the transfer case off if I don´t have to. I've got another transfer case in great condition in the workshop so will inspect the mechanism to familiarise and see if there is any easy adjustment/tightening that can be done. And if not, then I guess I will remove the transmission hump and see if there´s anything obvious stopping good stick movement, and if still probs either swap in a good transfer case, or remove and strip this one.
Anyone else experienced this kind of problem?
Anyway, this time I had someone with me so they got out to tell me exactly what was going on with each wheel. Turns out the rear two were spinning and the fronts weren´t moving. This was with transfer case selector in the 4L position. Tried the 4H position and got the same thing.
So both wheels spinning, rear prop shaft has to be spinning, so front prop should be spinning meaning front wheels should either be driving me or one or both of fronts should be spinning. Conclusion, I can´t be in 4WD.
Back into 2WD then firmly but not violently brought the stick down to 4WD making sure to hold it down while then moving it right to get 4L. And the truck just easily moved off. Tried out 4H and 4L and no problems so long as I make sure to really bring the stick down as far as it will come. So looks like I´ve got some slack in the way 4WD is being selected (or not selected). I haven´t investigated the mechanism and don´t want to get into taking the transfer case off if I don´t have to. I've got another transfer case in great condition in the workshop so will inspect the mechanism to familiarise and see if there is any easy adjustment/tightening that can be done. And if not, then I guess I will remove the transmission hump and see if there´s anything obvious stopping good stick movement, and if still probs either swap in a good transfer case, or remove and strip this one.
Anyone else experienced this kind of problem?
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The BJ40 should always do better than the HJ45 offroad due to the lighter weight and shorter wheelbase so I'm not surprised it wasn't in 4WD.
I haven't experienced this shifting problem but I'd concentrate on what's happening with your shift linkages because I think the trouble is most likely to be there. Maybe some play has developed somewhere or there's something about the floor or shiftlever-boot that's restricting your stick movement?
I haven't experienced this shifting problem but I'd concentrate on what's happening with your shift linkages because I think the trouble is most likely to be there. Maybe some play has developed somewhere or there's something about the floor or shiftlever-boot that's restricting your stick movement?
- Thread starter
- #113
Hi Tom, I expect you´re right and hope so too as would be a simple fix. If not I´m just going to swap for my known good low mileage transfer case from the 45 and strip and rebuild this one at my leisure for when the 45 is eventually ready.
- Thread starter
- #114
Are these old wheels worth reconditioning? The one on the right was the spare, possibly original? The other 4 that the vehicle came with
are like the one on the left, I think off a newer Toyota or maybe off a Nissan Patrol? If they've got any originality or monetary value I could get them blasted and painted, otherwise I won´t bother.
Right wheel is o.e. The left isnt. I would find four more blast and paint/powder coat done.
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- #116
Not quite ready to sell but at some point soon I need to reduce my "collection" of vehicles down to a reasonable number. How much would a vehicle like this BJ40 fetch in USA once legally imported?
- Thread starter
- #117
There's conflicting info in the manuals about how to setup the injection timing. I started a thread in the diesel section
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/b-engine-injection-timing.817487/
Any B engine owners know the answer to this?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/b-engine-injection-timing.817487/
Any B engine owners know the answer to this?
I see Rudi has answered your question in that other thread.
The timing for your engine is definitely 10 degrees ...
And you always need to look at dates (both your vehicle production date and the FSM publication date) when deciding on which FSM to refer to..
- Thread starter
- #119
So there are different versions of the B engine? I knew there was a 3B-1 and a 3B-2 but didn´t realise the same was true for the B.
I will be using the 1973 FSM courtesy of Rudi from now on.
I will be using the 1973 FSM courtesy of Rudi from now on.
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Most Toyota engines evolve. And often the latest versions have very few parts in common with the original.
The 2977cc B diesel is no exception to this.