1975 2F Piggy with Weber 38 carb and DUI dizzy...need some insight please:)

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In the first picture, "L" has no voltage going to it.

In the second picture, I have no clue what those are for, nor where there home should be.

And the third picture is of the dizzy side of the engine. I do take requests:)

Thanks guys!
IMG_0383.webp
 
i would bring the BB to TDC and check to see if the rotor is pointing at #1 spark plug wire

is the dizzy loose? is there a hold down on it? it may just be bad lighting on this moniter

anybody else see or think of anything else?
 
Sorry I'm a little slow. When I crank the engine around to get to the bb, I need to have the #1 plug removed correct? And when I do that, sticking my finger in the hole to check compression is okay or not?
 
yes...you can do it that way...then get to the BB from there...it should be very close...when you say crank...rotate the motor by hand...not the key :)
 
Okay then I'm lost again. God I feel stupid. At least I knew not to stick my finger in the hole and turn the key:)

I turn the engine over using the fan/belts until I can see the bb in the window correct?

IF there is pressure on my finger at that point I know I'm at TDC correct?

If the previous is true, then the rotor on the dizzy should be pointed at the #1 wire?

My next question will be what exactly needs to be pointing at that #1 wire. I must sound like a total idiot.
 
You can rotate the engine by hand several ways...using a fanbelt, the optional hand-crank, put the transmission in gear and move the rig...

The metal end of the dizzy rotor should be pointing at sparkplug wire #1 when at TDC.
 
jdog35 said:
...IF there is pressure on my finger at that point I know I'm at TDC correct?...
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Here is a tip that ( picked up on MUD) that I have used to "make sure" that cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Remove the #1 spark plug and place a Kleenex tissue in the hole. Rotate the engine (any of the by hand methods work just fine) until you hear the Kleenex pop out of the plug hole. The Kleenex pop indicates the piston is on its way up, so the next time you see the BB align with the pointer the engine is at 7 DBTDC. Hope that helps.
 
I dont recall you checking fuel flow? maybe a bad fuel pump? its mechanical correct?

also...i looked back and dont recall you checking to see if the carb choke is opening up?
 
soooo far this is what i recall him doing:

he had a pre-existing condition before doing all the work...picked up the truck in pieces PO and it was in various stages of disassembly/reassembly

replaced intake gasket
have great vac...20 psi at idle
runs great at idle...step on it and it dies
he has a dui dizzy....full 12v going to it...and its brand new
sealed up all the oil, coolant, fluid leaks (new gaskets and housings and such)
looks as if the firing order is correct
idling around 550 rpm
checked torque on intake/exhust...at 33 lbs
 
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isn't vacuum measured in inches of Hg? Is there an accelerator pump on Webers?
 
Thanks guys. The gas pedal isn't hooked up yet, as I have had to hit the accelerator manually by hand on the carb. But yes. With the rig off, if I pull the accelerator lever, gas squirts into the bowls.

The carb was brand new in the box when I stuck it on there (the OEM stock carb was a mess). Where is the 'accelerator pump' located? Is this something I need to test voltage for?
 
jdog35 said:
Thanks guys. The gas pedal isn't hooked up yet, as I have had to hit the accelerator manually by hand on the carb. But yes. With the rig off, if I pull the accelerator lever, gas squirts into the bowls.

The carb was brand new in the box when I stuck it on there (the OEM stock carb was a mess). Where is the 'accelerator pump' located? Is this something I need to test voltage for?
Click to expand...

The accelerator pump on your weber is located under the float bowl and is completely manual. afair, All those pieces are present and accounted for.

As a mattter of course, you should check your valve gaps soon. Is it still behaving as it did before? That is, stalling right off of idle and then spitting a bit of fuel?
 
I noticed you have 2 temp sending units, the one closest to the front of the engine that you said you tested for voltage and there was none, Is the wire to the electric choke coming off that set of wiring? If the carb was brand new out of the box, you shouldn't have had to make any adjustments to it. The wire that connected to the idle solenoid on the stock carb, is that still present in the engine bay? If so, connect a wire to it and run it to the choke and see if that helps. This still sounds like a classic case of a vacuum leak to me. Sorry for your frustrations.
 
rsbcruiser said:
The accelerator pump on your weber is located under the float bowl and is completely manual. afair, All those pieces are present and accounted for.

As a mattter of course, you should check your valve gaps soon. Is it still behaving as it did before? That is, stalling right off of idle and then spitting a bit of fuel?
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I adjusted the float and that definitely eliminated the geyser probability that seemed to occur at times.

The valves and the dizzy were the only things I could really decipher that hadn't been re-checked for certainty by me since I put it together. I'd be game for another go-round tomorrow if you are.
 
jdog is your choke opening?
 
fuel pump test?
 
mydogpea said:
If the carb was brand new out of the box, you shouldn't have had to make any adjustments to it.
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unfortunitly not always true with the weber...its very often way too rich...and jetted wrong for the altitude :meh:
 
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