1975 2F Piggy with Weber 38 carb and DUI dizzy...need some insight please:)

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J

jdog35

10 Year 15 Year
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Feb 6, 2010
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Hey guys and gals. I'm having some trouble getting my Piggy running. I bought this project from another guy in various states of repair/modification. Definitely not fun sometimes. As of right now I have sealed up all the oil, coolant, fluid leaks (new gaskets and housings and such). I can get the little Piggy turned over and idling with the Weber carb, but I am REALLY not making any progress on tuning the dang thing.

The only other issue I've not addressed is there appears to be a slight exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold at the header (couldnt' really determine until I got it running a little bit). Probably needs a new gasket which I'm tracking down now. It has an MAF 6-1 manifold FYI.

No matter what I do (based on all the various diagrams and instructional sheets I've found here) I cannot get the rig to do anything but die when I add throttle. I'm sure it is something really simple, but I just don't know enough (I think) to really track down this issue. I have the timing set (I believe...timing light is in sync on #1 cylinder with TDC line on the flywheel), and it is idling around 700rpm right now, but beyond that I just can't seem to figure it out.

I have a fairly large garage with just about every tool known to man. If y'all have any ideas it would be MOST appreciated! If it's something you think is simple enough, or you are interested in giving this big dumb mammal a hand, I'll be happy to provide beer/soda and lunch/dinner.

Thanks all!
 
X2 on resetting timing on the BB. Also make sure the headers and intake are torqued to spec...33 ft lbs. Sounds like a vacuum leak.
I had the exact problem you described, torqued down manifold bolts and problem solved. Good luck.
 
jdog35 said:
Hey guys and gals. I'm having some trouble getting my Piggy running. I bought this project from another guy in various states of repair/modification. Definitely not fun sometimes. As of right now I have sealed up all the oil, coolant, fluid leaks (new gaskets and housings and such). I can get the little Piggy turned over and idling with the Weber carb, but I am REALLY not making any progress on tuning the dang thing.

The only other issue I've not addressed is there appears to be a slight exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold at the header (couldnt' really determine until I got it running a little bit). Probably needs a new gasket which I'm tracking down now. It has an MAF 6-1 manifold FYI.

No matter what I do (based on all the various diagrams and instructional sheets I've found here) I cannot get the rig to do anything but die when I add throttle. I'm sure it is something really simple, but I just don't know enough (I think) to really track down this issue. I have the timing set (I believe...timing light is in sync on #1 cylinder with TDC line on the flywheel), and it is idling around 700rpm right now, but beyond that I just can't seem to figure it out.

I have a fairly large garage with just about every tool known to man. If y'all have any ideas it would be MOST appreciated! If it's something you think is simple enough, or you are interested in giving this big dumb mammal a hand, I'll be happy to provide beer/soda and lunch/dinner.

Thanks all!
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Where are you located? What about breakfast? It's the most important meal of the day!
 
Just finished breakfast in fact:) Thanks dog!

I'm near Tualatin just south of Portland. I will re-time on the BB (I have a different colored chalk line there to make it easy). And I will check the torque specs on the header bolts. I'll throw a picture of it up this afternoon after I make my Costco rounds.

Thanks guys!!!
 
So here are the photos I promised. Hope they help you guys help me.

I checked all the torque-settings on the bolts, and they are all at least 33lbs. I'm pretty certain at this point I need to remove that head and replace the gasket. Thoughts before I go tearing this puppy apart?

Thanks all!
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That's a ten-four on the leaking exhaust gasket there. I'd replace it with a remflex, that should solve your problem. Once you have it all back together you can run some tests to determine if the new gasket fixed the problem. Amongst your tools, do you have a vacuum gauge?
 
rsbcruiser said:
That's a ten-four on the leaking exhaust gasket there. I'd replace it with a remflex, that should solve your problem. Once you have it all back together you can run some tests to determine if the new gasket fixed the problem. Amongst your tools, do you have a vacuum gauge?
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I 'do' have a vacuum gauge...that leaks:) How ironic!

Thanks for the quick response. I'm assuming I clean the block outlets, manifold inlets, and replace with gasket accordingly? Anything to watch out for in particular? Oh, and I'll be buying a new vacuum gauge this afternoon:)

Thanks!
 
jdog35 said:
I 'do' have a vacuum gauge...that leaks:) How ironic!

:lol:

Thanks for the quick response. I'm assuming I clean the block outlets, manifold inlets, and replace with gasket accordingly? Anything to watch out for in particular? Oh, and I'll be buying a new vacuum gauge this afternoon:)

Thanks!
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Yep. everything you said plus some more. Do you have a straight edge? If so, you can use it to check for flatness on the header and intake. Mostly the header. if it is warped and you have the gumshun + a bench vise you can bend that thing back to flat. Some would say you need to have it machined flat :meh:. It is probably bent away from the block at the corners opposite the mani bolts. Another problem I see is that darned two piece adapter for the weber. Those things are just awfull and a source of more vac leaks.
 
Indeed get rid of the sandwich adapter plates. They're notorious for fuel leaks as well. At least mine did! No leaks with the MAF one piece. I opted for the SOR manifold gasket. It's working well for me, and only $20!:D
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Well a little bright news at least...my header and block surfaces both look straight. There isn't a hint of gap or space between my straight edge and my header or on the block. I'll get the gasket tonight after the kids are done with homework, and see what I can get to.

I cleaned both surfaced with intake/manifold cleaner and they look nice. No pits or nicks or anything. From reading here there seem to be various opinions on using gasket sealent with the Remflex gasket or not. Thoughts?

Oh, and I hear ya on the 2-piece Weber throttle body leaking. It hasn't...yet...but the moment it does I'll grab that single-piece jobby they sell.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks dog. Hey, this is going to sound funny...but you seem to have deleted your emissions system as well. I noticed that this port (circled) on your engine has a line in it. Where are you running that hose to? As you can see from my picture above...I have no hose there:)
P9120574.webp
 
That's the blowby vent on the top of the valve cover. You should've got a little plastic 90 degree elbow with the carb kit with a plastic nut and rubber o ring. Install that into the hole in the corner of the top plate of the carb( i noticed you didn't have one), run a 1/2" plastic tube from the elbow to the blowby vent in the valve cover. It recirculates blowby gases back into the motor. Another thing I noticed, Where is your brake booster breather hose? It should be installed into the intake manifold. You have a plug in it's place. I can take better pictures if needed.
 
That'd be really handy dog. Thanks! I'm piecing this thing back together from the PO and it was in various stages of disassembly/reassembly. Frustrating to say the least since I don't know, necessarily, what was OEM and what was modified. Thanks man!
 
It looks like the carb has had some back firing? If so I would check out your distributor. When you switch to a weber carb and remove parts of the "spagetti" emission system you may need to change your distributor. Does your dizzy have a vacuum line for retard and advance? What is the condition of your dizzy? Mine was on its last leg. I replaced with an HEI unit. WOW, what a difference.
 
jdog35 said:
That'd be really handy dog. Thanks! I'm piecing this thing back together from the PO and it was in various stages of disassembly/reassembly. Frustrating to say the least since I don't know, necessarily, what was OEM and what was modified. Thanks man!
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Will do...Tomorrow. It does get frustrating at times but when you get it, you'll have a greater sense of accomplishment. I just installed that motor and tranny/transfer yesterday...Solo.
Do you have a FSM(factory service manual) or a haynes manual? If not, get one or the other. It will be a huge help.
 
I do have the Haynes. It has been very handy. As is this website. The tough part for me is the PO has a lot of oem components removed, or partially removed (and/or jerry-rigged I'm finding), and I'm not certain what does and doesn't go where at all times with the mods on top of it.

Initially I tried to take the whole system back to stock but found to be lacking the parts. The steering system was the same, but thankfully I was able to scrounge all the oem gear out of all these bins.

I can't tell you how much help y'all have been. I finally feel like I'm making positive progress toward getting this piggy to the market! A wife-requirement that we can ACTUALLY drive it to Costco:)

Thanks again guys.
 
jdog35 said:
Well a little bright news at least...my header and block surfaces both look straight. There isn't a hint of gap or space between my straight edge and my header or on the block. I'll get the gasket tonight after the kids are done with homework, and see what I can get to.

I cleaned both surfaced with intake/manifold cleaner and they look nice. No pits or nicks or anything. From reading here there seem to be various opinions on using gasket sealent with the Remflex gasket or not. Thoughts?

Oh, and I hear ya on the 2-piece Weber throttle body leaking. It hasn't...yet...but the moment it does I'll grab that single-piece jobby they sell.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

No sealant for the remflex.
 
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