1973 Toyota FJ40 Build.....Long Road Ahead

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grant5127 said:
Liquidation sale going on now.......
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Grant, are you joking or is Daniel shuttin' it down? Or did you decide to buy the bidness? :hhmm:
 
Who knows
 
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Nevermind
 
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grant5127 said:
Liquidation sale going on now.......
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I know sad days ... I don't think he and I are in good tearms right now anyway :(

Sent from outer space via my mind
 
A picture of the goodies I picked up yesterday!
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Sweet ...

Sent from outer space via my mind
 
Well I received a few more items today. It always puts a smile on my face to see a a couple boxes on my front porch when I get home. Anyways here is a pic of the weber adapter for running a snorkel. I should be getting my AWL TEQ (fellow mudder) snorkel in any day. I'm still waiting on the universal air box from river raider. I also got the quicklift hood struts made specifically for fj40's. I purchase the stainless steel elite ones.
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Here is another pic
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Okay onto some business... As you know this rig is a mutt, or better yet a Frankenstein as the guy called it at SOR today on the phone and couldn't help me. I have asked quite a few folks I know for advice but I'm gonna hope someone in the mud community has dealt with this directly.

As you know this is a 73... I removed the 73(10/72) body and replaced it with a 74 body. This means that the pedal and throttle linkage is different. Before I tore it down it had a accelerator cable running to the 73 pedal which was great. However the 73 pedal does not work on the 74 body, so I purchased a 74 pedal. The problem I am having is that the 74 used
Mechanical linkage instead of the accelerator cable. So I Need to know how guys with 74 pedals were capable of using a weber carb. I thought about switching the pivots and using the 73 pedal with the 74 pivot bracket but it will not work as the 73 pedal will not support it. Any aftermarket Mechanical linkage options out there? Anyways below is a couple pictures that I took today. Any ideas? I really need the advice
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The 73 pedal is on the right and the pedal on the left well I'm not sure what it is to, but neither will work on the 74 since the pivot bracket for the 74 is too wide to mount on the 73 pedal.
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I also have a call into Weber to see if I can get just the linkage kit for a 74 weber convertion ... I'll let you know when I find out

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If this was mine I'd get all the missing manual rod linkage parts for a '74 era and go with that. Otherwise you gonna have to do some riggn with one of those pedals and drill another hole in the firewall for the cable....
 
Joel, thank you man! Which bumper is stronger? The current bumper I have is a JTO winch bumper and honestly I don't think it is strong enough plus it has all the wrong mounting points. However, by what Daniel said is that the OEM bumper which seems more stout is the bumper that Toyota specifically used when they switched from PTO winches to the 8274 as an option. Its a clean bumper but it needs to be repainted. Also thank you for putting the call in, I'm looking forward to hearing some input.
 
grant5127 said:
If this was mine I'd get all the missing manual rod linkage parts for a '74 era and go with that. Otherwise you gonna have to do some riggn with one of those pedals and drill another hole in the firewall for the cable....
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Grant,

I completely agree and sorry for not shooting an email to you. I was hoping you would see this. I think until I have some solid answers trying to make the mechanical linkage work is the best bet. However, SOR charges an arm and a leg for those linkage pieces, any insight on where I can find the whole set up?
 
Okay not to veer off track but until the throttle thing gets worked out I have decided to go ahead and start tearing down and replacing parts on both winches. Kling on and I spoke today about tearing down the non operating one and using the operating one for the time being. That is probably the best way to go. However I thought hell might as well work on each one at the same time and take my time with it. Honestly, the winch will probably be seldomly used when I install it on the 40 and the other winch ok just not sure yet what I'll do with it once I'm done. The screw holding on the ground wire doesn't seem to want to budge. Any tricks on getting it removed? It's a flat head screw and I am afraid that if I might strip it. I soaked both screws down on both winches tonight with pb blaster so I'm hoping when I get back to them on Sunday they will be ready to be removed. Also is there a way to test the solenoids? I'm not an electrical guy, so I'm wondering what I need to do to test the solenoids since at least one solenoid is out on the non operational winch.

Here are some pics, don't hate on my little red wagon and please have patience as this thread is going to be a little bit of winch rebuild. I'm using Tucker's thread and another gents thread as reference as well. Just got Back from walmart with 5 gallon buckets in order to place the lines in. Any suggestions on how to remove the lines without mounting to the bumper?
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And this is where I'm at for the night...
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Sully73FJ40 said:
Grant,

I completely agree and sorry for not shooting an email to you. I was hoping you would see this. I think until I have some solid answers trying to make the mechanical linkage work is the best bet. However, SOR charges an arm and a leg for those linkage pieces, any insight on where I can find the whole set up?
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If you can't find what you need locally, check with Scott at Cruiser Corps.
 
Sully73FJ40 said:
Joel, thank you man! Which bumper is stronger? The current bumper I have is a JTO winch bumper and honestly I don't think it is strong enough plus it .
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The one on you truck looks like it made from thicker steel

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kling-on said:
The one on you truck looks like it made from thicker steel

Sent from outer space via my mind
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Joel,

I'm going to freshen up that OEM bumper and see how the two compare. Whichever one is the thicker of two I'll use it. I would love to use the one on it as it's nice and already powder coated and has the hooks, however I'm not sure the 8274 will mount directly to it.
 
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