1973 FJ40 New Project

Dizzy

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Welcome to Mud, and, that is one of the nicest original 40s that I've seen here in a while.

Those hydraulic cylinders look dry. Assume that the clutch and brake master cylinders leaks, as the original paint is worth protecting.

The 3-speed J30 is a non-synchronized first gear transmission. That means that if you downshift while in motion, there will be a bit of a grind. When the F engine is setup properly, feel free to kinda bog down the rpms in 2nd gear, you'll have enough torque and throttle response that it won't matter the transmission behind the engine. I've drove both (Toyota three, and four-speeds), also a 40 swapped with a Chevy SM420 (basically a 3-speed w/granny), and I don't prefer my current H42 over the other two FJ40 set-ups. Drain the gear oil, as sometimes water finds its way down the shift cane on a non-topped FJ40, and the transmission makes a smelly emulsion that will lead to eventual problems.
 
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Welcome to Mud, and, that is one of the nicest original 40s that I've seen here in a while.

Those hydraulic cylinders look dry. Assume that the clutch and brake master cylinders leaks, as the original paint is worth protecting.

The 3-speed J30 is a non-synchronized first gear transmission. That means that if you downshift while in motion, there will be a bit of a grind. When the F engine is setup properly, feel free to kinda bog down the rpms in 2nd gear, you'll have enough torque and throttle response that it won't matter the transmission behind the engine. I've drove both (Toyota three, and four-speeds), also a 40 swapped with a Chevy SM420 (basically a 3-speed w/granny), and I don't prefer my current H42 over the other two FJ40 set-ups. Drain the gear oil, as sometimes water finds its way down the shift cane on a non-topped FJ40, and the transmission makes a smelly emulsion that will lead to eventual problems.
Great information, thank you!
 
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Nebraska
Amazing original 40 you lucky dog! Wow that looks solid! Hope you keep it original.

I have the same roll bar in my '69. Paperwork says it was dealer installed. Mine came from Colorado too. Same color even.

Keep posting pics and your progress.
I really hope to keep it as original as possible and just improve what is here. As long as I can find parts that aren't worth a small fortune. But if I change anything, I want it to retain it's soul. It has so much character!
 

KingAir Driver

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Wow! Great find… looks exactly like my 73 that I’m piecing together, except mine is not an original FST. Plenty of resources on here about getting it done correctly and who to go to for proper parts, it’s a great community!

62BFF9B0-0BF8-43B9-BBB2-04C5DB1EC1B6.jpeg
 

Dizzy

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If you pull your spark plugs, clean them, then run your engine, then inspect the plugs it might tell you how much it needs it. An intake valve guide leak, will burn oil, but, more importantly it will foul up things. On the exhaust valve side of things, not the same concern. The seals wear out after half a century, it is common, and the exhaust ones seem to have to contend with a hotter environment. I've read about piston rings getting fouled up with deposits and not working properly, but, I don't know. Check and clean the PCV system, as that can also be an avenue for oil. Valve stem seals can be done with the head on on the block, it took me a good day to do it. No petroleum making its way into the coolant, I hope. What kind oil is in the crankcase?
 
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Wow! Great find… looks exactly like my 73 that I’m piecing together, except mine is not an original FST. Plenty of resources on here about getting it done correctly and who to go to for proper parts, it’s a great community!

View attachment 2808638
Yours looks fantastic already! Do you have a build thread on it? I'd like to read through it.
 
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If you pull your spark plugs, clean them, then run your engine, then inspect the plugs it might tell you how much it needs it. An intake valve guide leak, will burn oil, but, more importantly it will foul up things. On the exhaust valve side of things, not the same concern. The seals wear out after half a century, it is common, and the exhaust ones seem to have to contend with a hotter environment. I've read about piston rings getting fouled up with deposits and not working properly, but, I don't know. Check and clean the PCV system, as that can also be an avenue for oil. Valve stem seals can be done with the head on on the block, it took me a good day to do it. No petroleum making its way into the coolant, I hope. What kind oil is in the crankcase?
The oil was full but black. I don't yet know if there is gas in the coolant. Hopefully not. I probably won't be able to dig in very deep and replace the valve seals for awhile, but it will be on my list. Unfortunately, I live 10 hrs from where the FJ will be. But it will give me plenty of time to plan and collect parts.
 

KingAir Driver

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Yours looks fantastic already! Do you have a build thread on it? I'd like to read through it.
Thanks, still a work in progress. Here’s my thread, not too detailed, but shows some steps I’ve taken so far.

 
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So I have been doing some poking around today and the fuel issue is the most critical at this point. The first picture is of what looks to me like a small canister that the fuel lines connect to. When the engine is running, it squirts fuel out the bottom but stops when the engine is off. I hate to sound ignorant, but is this the fuel pump or part of the fuel filter system?

The second picture is a fitting on the carb that is also actively leaking gas. I haven't tried tightening up the fittings yet but I was going to try that tomorrow.

PXL_20211011_004349100~2.jpg


PXL_20211011_004509224~2.jpg
 
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This picture is to ask you fellas what you think of the master cylinder reservoirs. The rubber caps don't seal at all and there's basically no fluid in the brake system. Should I try to source just the reservoirs, or is it worth getting a whole new master cylinder unit?

PXL_20211011_004735749.jpg
 
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From my lurking on this forum, I figured you fellas would like some pictures of the dash and a closeup of the reverse light.

PXL_20211011_004559158.jpg


PXL_20211011_004653032.jpg


PXL_20211011_004629726.jpg
 

Dizzy

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Yes, that is the fuel pump.

Typically, you just get new hydraulic components. If there is a loss of fluid in the system, usually you will find just enough rust pitting in the cast iron components that they get replaced.
 

Dizzy

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Why did Toyota appear to put the rear step on a tailgated FST? It seems like a conflict, and I thought that the pintle hitch was its substitute? Do the bumperettes clear a license plate tag when the drop-down tailgate is down?
 
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Why did Toyota appear to put the rear step on a tailgated FST? It seems like a conflict, and I thought that the pintle hitch was its substitute? Do the bumperettes clear a license plate tag when the drop-down tailgate is down?
Bumperettes? Do you mean the bolt on small hoops? I think those were removed from the bumper. The tailgate has chains that keep it flat at 90° instead of dropping it flat against the bumper
 

Pighead

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The second picture is a fitting on the carb that is also actively leaking gas. I haven't tried tightening up the fittings yet but I was going to try that tomorrow.



View attachment 2809234
Yes. That is the fuel inlet (on top) and fuel return line (below). There's 8 or 9 places in there to get a leak and brass washers everywhere. The threads in the alloy carb are very special and hard to repair, do not strip them. You can snug up the fuel lines to the fitting, but be careful tightening the fitting into the carb. Ideally, you'd pull all that apart, clean and reassemble.
 

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