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While I have the tub off and plenty of access I pulled the trans to do the RMS and make space for cleaning and painting. I have had a leak coming out the bottom of the inspection cover for a while and the whole area was coated with oil/dirt from years of this. This was pretty straight forward. Disconnected the linkages and vacuum lines. Removed the parking brake.
Dirty work. When I got this I think every gasket was leaking, including the valve cover.
Hit the frame with a wire wheel, then POR 15, and an
etching primer before top coating.
The oil pan really fought me. The gasket was petrified on there and even when I got the pan off, it did not want to come off the block. I
posted about it in another thread and got some good advice.
I couldnt imagine doing all of this on my back with just a scraper or screw driver.
Separating the pan and getting the gasket off was the most difficult part of this job.
This was the tool that ended up working best. I still had to pick out the U shaped portions of the gasket, which I dug out then soaked in brake cleaner to scrape the rest off.
Once I got the pan off, I brought it home, took advantage of the nice weather and pressure washed it. I cleaned it up with a brush and dish soap, then a wire wheel. The difference between the side next to exhaust and the opposite side was night and day. Now its all nicely painted black. I also cleaned up the mating surface, made sure it was nice and level, then hit it with
copper spray gasket.
I followed the procedure
posted on here. I got a new
OEM RMS along with a few other bits from Cruiser Matt after the dealership didnt give me price or a lead time, but spammed me with text messages for a week. The old one came out and was very brittle.
Not knowing what I was going to find, I had picked up an SKF speedy sleeve kit from Rock Auto that was supposed to fit but was clearly wrong. It was over sized and too deep, by almost 2X. Thankfully I could not feel any grooves that would catch a finger so I cleaned up the crank surface and sent it.
Following the instructions I coated the OD with Toyota black gasket maker and the lips got oiled. Went in easy, tapped it home with a block of wood and retorqued everything.
More of the copper spray gasket on the block surface. I also coated the gasket on all sides and blobbed the Toyota black gasket maker in the corners as recommended.
These
M8 snap ups were a big help doing it myself. I also used two longer M8 bolts to draw it up before putting in the stock sized JIS hardware. A few were rusted so I replaced them, and used cleaned up OEM fasteners that came out for the balance.
Weird lighting coming down from above, but its all back in. After I got the oil pan set, working from the middle out I removed each bolt, added thread locker and torqued to spec.
Hopefully this will cure its incontinence.
