Builds 1970 FatherSonJ40 project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kmehr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Ideally yes, match the output location to the pinion orientation. Compound angle are tough to over come in terms of ujoint compliance. With mismatched the ujoints are trying to compensate in both up and down orientation AND left right orientation.
- Thread starter
- #163
Plugging along. Got the console mounted permanently, though I may revisit later. Liking the Steel-it, very durable.
Also got a new window regulator on the drivers side so I can finally roll and unroll it. Next up is new weather stripping and felts (which I have from SOR). Got the seat belt mounting points adjusted as well to make the 3point setup a little better.
Also got a new window regulator on the drivers side so I can finally roll and unroll it. Next up is new weather stripping and felts (which I have from SOR). Got the seat belt mounting points adjusted as well to make the 3point setup a little better.
- Thread starter
- #164
No pics but have been working on resealing the doors. The disintegrated weather stripping on the passenger door left behind some glue that was really stuck. Busted out the mini angle grinder and it works great but I’m down to bare metal. Now I face the classic question of “ how far do I go?”. I’ve always planned to repaint in yellow 532, and this door is blue over what looks like original beige. Rest of my cruiser is black, the drivers side door is beige….. kinda seems like the time to start the transformation since it doesn’t match anyways right?!
- Thread starter
- #165
Well I took a bit of a plunge yesterday. Finally getting a nice break from work so should have quite a bit of free time coming up.
I bought paint! went with Yellow 576 "super bright yellow". It's the commonly seen Supra from the 90s yellow. I dig it. It's a bit brighter than the 532 code that looks like the Land Cruiser yellow, but I just couldn't find 532 locally in a paint setup that I liked. Using Sherwin Williams automotive "Sunfire Pro" line, base clear. Going to do etch, primer, base and clear. Starting with the doors. Have the passenger side almost down to bare metal, so hopefully will have results on it next week.
Isn't it funny how theses things snowball? "Oh I need to replace the seals on this door to stop the rattle, so then I think well I better not put a seal over old nasty blue paint, so might as well do it right and get the paint for the whole car...."
I bought paint! went with Yellow 576 "super bright yellow". It's the commonly seen Supra from the 90s yellow. I dig it. It's a bit brighter than the 532 code that looks like the Land Cruiser yellow, but I just couldn't find 532 locally in a paint setup that I liked. Using Sherwin Williams automotive "Sunfire Pro" line, base clear. Going to do etch, primer, base and clear. Starting with the doors. Have the passenger side almost down to bare metal, so hopefully will have results on it next week.
Isn't it funny how theses things snowball? "Oh I need to replace the seals on this door to stop the rattle, so then I think well I better not put a seal over old nasty blue paint, so might as well do it right and get the paint for the whole car...."
- Thread starter
- #166
Door is sanded down and 98% bare metal. Also have all of the door bits in the ultrasonic cleaner. Hoping it does well on paint. Definitely going to get the rest of my body panels sandblasted off site….forgot how much work and sandpaper you go through doing it by hand! Hoping to shoot primer on Monday. Bought some plastic and a bunch of magnets to setup a little paint booth under my lift. I’ve been reading all sorts of threads, particularly the @diesellibrarian what an inspiration!
- Thread starter
- #169
Got my paint booth setup today. Then noticed my spray gun was filthy, so didn’t get to paint anything, but getting really close! Bought some magnets on Amazon that are perfect for hanging this plastic and not having to mess with tape.
- Thread starter
- #170
have the door in primer and the seams sealed. Going to hopefully sand tomorrow and lay down some color! On another note- is my top savable? The rivets on the front part are all poking through, but looks like the whole thing could be coated with filler and re-painted. I've never messed with fiberglass though, so I don't know!
CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
My top looks about the same. I'm planning on filling and painting FWIW.
- Thread starter
- #172
I tell ya what, super bright yellow means exactly that, it is SUPER bright. I would have done another coat of primer if I did it over, but it is now in color and clear. I think I like it, will see when I get it out in the sun and on the truck.
At the highway dept. we would call that traffic yellow.
- Thread starter
- #174
It’ll be “high viz” for sure haha
- Thread starter
- #176
Ended up painting the hinges and door hardware in steel-it. Thought it looked pretty close to the original brushed metal color. Not sure I love the hinges not being body color, but honestly I forgot about them when painting the door and didn’t want to mix up a whole cup of paint just for them. Will run them for a bit and change them later if I decide I don’t like the contrast.
- Thread starter
- #177
Got the door back together and back on. Tried using 3m tape for the weather stripping at that worked not at all… anyways I love the color. Certainly needed 3 coats of clear instead of two, so lesson learned there.
Looks great to me. I like Philobond 20 industrial contact adhesive for weather stripping, that's what the aviation people use. Blue painters tape in the cab opening in case some glue gets on the wrong side of the rubber.
www.aircraftspruce.com
Pliobond 20 | Aircraft Spruce
Pliobond 20 Pliobond #20 is a viscous, quick setting highly versatile adhesive. Bonds metal; wood, plastics, fabrics; ceramics, glass, vulcanized rubber, paper, leather and concrete. Thin with MEK.
- Thread starter
- #179
Got some miles in today with this beautiful break in the weather. Finally got my brake issue sorted for good it seems like- ended up milling down the pushrod extension by about 5mm and now now more pressure build up no matter how long it idles or drives.
Took it up some good grades for an old “Italian tune up” and it’s running really well. My power steering pump bracket setup though I just don’t think allows for enough belt wrap on the alternator and above a certain rpm it starts screaming at you. Which isn’t the end of the world because it’s pretty high and time to shift. Whatever mystery rpm that is ha!
Anyways, some poser shots at this nice little park I live down the street from:
Took it up some good grades for an old “Italian tune up” and it’s running really well. My power steering pump bracket setup though I just don’t think allows for enough belt wrap on the alternator and above a certain rpm it starts screaming at you. Which isn’t the end of the world because it’s pretty high and time to shift. Whatever mystery rpm that is ha!
Anyways, some poser shots at this nice little park I live down the street from:
- Thread starter
- #180
Also I've said it before, but I'll say it again, the 3spd stinks. I can't wait to get rid of it. Been driving stick all my life and I can't double clutch worth a damn to not grind in 1st. 1st is also too high, the jump between 2-3 is too wide. I've never driven a 4spd (or 5spd for that matter), but the 3 speed should have never been a thing!
