- Thread starter
- #101
Thank you sir- yes I’ve got the slave cylinder and brackets, etc. Didn't know if I was missing something from that forward hole.
Thanks again.
Build 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build
- Thread starter royal cake
- Start date
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Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #102
Got the motor set in today. Glad it fit!
Who knew the front mounts were M12 on the 2F instead of M10 on the F motor. Oh ih8mud knew if I would have searched more. Haha.
Who knew the front mounts were M12 on the 2F instead of M10 on the F motor. Oh ih8mud knew if I would have searched more. Haha.
Did you just drill out the motor side bolt holes in your front motor mounts?
- Thread starter
- #104
I did… looked like there was enough meat there for support. Hopefully that’s good to go.
Thats what I plan on doing also. 
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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Cap for the water pump. Way better then the typical rubber barstool foot.
16mm ID NON-USA OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PART LIFE-TIME Service Part OIL Cooler DELETE / Service Cap Double Multi layer - VintageTEqParts.com
16mm ID OEM TOYOTA LIFE-TIME Service Part OIL Cooler DELETE / Service Cap This TOYOTA GENUINE PART is a LIFE-TIME...
vintageteqparts.com
- Thread starter
- #107
Ah ok. Yes went smooth. Got new JIS bolts. One right clearance area by the rib, so you don’t want the head too big.Thats what I plan on doing also.
- Thread starter
- #108
I’ll bookmark that!Cap for the water pump. Way better then the typical rubber barstool foot.
16mm ID NON-USA OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PART LIFE-TIME Service Part OIL Cooler DELETE / Service Cap Double Multi layer - VintageTEqParts.com
16mm ID OEM TOYOTA LIFE-TIME Service Part OIL Cooler DELETE / Service Cap This TOYOTA GENUINE PART is a LIFE-TIME...vintageteqparts.com
- Thread starter
- #109
So today was installing shocks (had thread cleanup to do, etc) and finally tackling the center arm.
So to start, I'm 99% the same as what's shown here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Just a summary up front: As can be seen from the referenced thread, there really isn't a proper fit for that large grey felt dust seal. Whether or not this was correct, I ended up trimming that seal to fit in the lower bushing area, around the spring. There was simply too much to stuff in there and fit the dust cover to where it would slip into the o-ring and create a seal.
To start, there wasn't a bevel on the new bushings to allow clearance for the radius on the shaft, so I had to cut one in so it would sit flush so I had to cut one in.
The oring groove was a bit bent up from someone in the past probably banging on it. I just had to touch up a couple spots with a super thin cutting wheel to get the oring to seat.
So the seals: long story short the lower dust cover needs to seat on the oring. I had to trim the large seal to fit. I have no idea if this is right, but I think the assembly is functioning as it should. And I don’t remember a piece that large coming out of the old assembly.
Seems to fit up. The spring preloaded and the lower dust cover seated on the oring. The lower castle nut/bushing slip fits into the lower bracket. Looks like the lower bracket is strictly to provide radial support.
I didn’t snug anything up yet, but looks like it’s going to work.
So to start, I'm 99% the same as what's shown here:
Center Arm Rebuild
I am looking for any help on rebuilding my center arm on my 64 FJ40. The Haynes manual explodes the later style and the Toyota repair manual doesn't get too detailed. I have pressed in the races and that's it so far. Any idea's as to o-ring placement and which felt to use?
forum.ih8mud.com
Just a summary up front: As can be seen from the referenced thread, there really isn't a proper fit for that large grey felt dust seal. Whether or not this was correct, I ended up trimming that seal to fit in the lower bushing area, around the spring. There was simply too much to stuff in there and fit the dust cover to where it would slip into the o-ring and create a seal.
To start, there wasn't a bevel on the new bushings to allow clearance for the radius on the shaft, so I had to cut one in so it would sit flush so I had to cut one in.
The oring groove was a bit bent up from someone in the past probably banging on it. I just had to touch up a couple spots with a super thin cutting wheel to get the oring to seat.
So the seals: long story short the lower dust cover needs to seat on the oring. I had to trim the large seal to fit. I have no idea if this is right, but I think the assembly is functioning as it should. And I don’t remember a piece that large coming out of the old assembly.
Seems to fit up. The spring preloaded and the lower dust cover seated on the oring. The lower castle nut/bushing slip fits into the lower bracket. Looks like the lower bracket is strictly to provide radial support.
I didn’t snug anything up yet, but looks like it’s going to work.
- Thread starter
- #110
Did I mention I don’t like cleaning and painting?
Spent the day cleaning up the steering linkages and painting.
One was completely full of some rust and mud mixture. One had a wobble to it so got in on the press and straightened it out.
All of this will get dirty again but maybe it’ll take another 10 years.
Also got the flywheel on. Had to do something mechanical to get the bad taste of cleaning out of my mouth.
Spent the day cleaning up the steering linkages and painting.
One was completely full of some rust and mud mixture. One had a wobble to it so got in on the press and straightened it out.
All of this will get dirty again but maybe it’ll take another 10 years.
Also got the flywheel on. Had to do something mechanical to get the bad taste of cleaning out of my mouth.
@royal cake if you are running the old heavy 3 speed flywheel you may be missing the flywheel bolt locking plate
- Thread starter
- #112
Heyyyyyyy yes! I have those. Good thing someone is paying attention!
- Thread starter
- #113
Attempted to get the clutch installed yesterday, and realized I did not have the flywheel locking plates as @mrboatman so kindly noticed I was missing. So my local Toyota dealer came though and had them for me this morning. Got the flywheel torqued, the installed the clutch. Used the "nested socket" method (mentioned in another thread here) to align the clutch plate as I didn't have an alignment tool. Pressed on the new throw out bearing from @65swb45 and everything when in nicely.
- Thread starter
- #114
I'll throw this question out to the great folks here: I was ready to install the transmission and went to clean up the bolts, but it looks like they are an odd size? They are 1.5 thread pitch but bigger than 12mm (measure at 0.495" or around 12.6mm). From searching here it looks like they are supposed to be 12mm bolts? Maybe they were drilled and tapped at some point? But not sure what bolt this is...
Form follows function. If all 4 are the same, and all four fit in the holes smoothly, they are the right bolts.
- Thread starter
- #116
Haha yes very true. I wanted to run a thread chaser across them but I think I’ll just stick with my thread file. Check fit them and like you say don’t mess with success.Form follows function. If all 4 are the same, and all four fit in the holes smoothly, they are the right bolts.
- Thread starter
- #117
Trans and transfer case went in Saturday night- forgot to post that. Went in smooth and I’ve been focusing on getting all the body parts moved around and prepped to send to the body shop. This is like a full time job! Haha
- Thread starter
- #118
Was discussing parts with @65swb45 the other day and decided to try to turn down my 2F exhaust studs to accept my F motor manifolds. Looks to be successful; most of the time was in setup to make a collet of sorts to hold the 12mm end in the lathe. 5 more to go.
I’ve been slowed a little as I move the body out of storage back to my place to get it to the body shop. Will be done with that this weekend then back to work on the mechanical stuff.
I’ve been slowed a little as I move the body out of storage back to my place to get it to the body shop. Will be done with that this weekend then back to work on the mechanical stuff.
Very nice 
I paid the 75 bucks for the SOR step-down studs. The manifolds fit very nice also.
I paid the 75 bucks for the SOR step-down studs. The manifolds fit very nice also.
- Thread starter
- #120
Thanks- yeah that was going to be the route if this didn’t work. It’s sort of relaxing to turn stuff. Now if I had to do 100 of ‘em I’d probably get tired it…Very nice