Builds 1966 LV Build by LCNuts

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LCNuts

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Threads
16
Messages
288
Location
Hartsville, South Carolina
I wanted start a thread to share and document the progress of my 1966 LV. I bought this thing from Ward Baker in Boulder, CO in April 2019. Ward was selling this LV and a 1976 FJ-55. My freind @CottonPatchKid wanted the pig and I have wanted an LV for a while. Buying them together Ward offered us a multi-unit discount. So I flew out to CO and made the deal. 2 weeks later we has them shipped home to South Carolina.

This will be a two part project. Part 1 is is to get it running and drive-able and preserve the patina. Part 2 will be a nut and bolt restoration but that will be a few years from now. More to come.....

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I think you just increased the LV population in South Carolina by 50% ;)

Looking forward to following the build!
 
I wanted start a thread to share and document the progress of my 1966 LV. I bought this thing from Ward Baker in Boulder, CO in April 2019. Ward was selling this LV and a 1976 FJ-55. My freind @CottonPatchKid wanted the pig and I have wanted an LV for a while. Buying them together Ward offered us a multi-unit discount. So I flew out to CO and made the deal. 2 weeks later we has them shipped home to South Carolina.

This will be a two part project. Part 1 is is to get it running and drive-able and preserve the patina. Part 2 will be a nut and bolt restoration but that will be a few years from now. More to come.....

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I wanted start a thread to share and document the progress of my 1966 LV. I bought this thing from Ward Baker in Boulder, CO in April 2019. Ward was selling this LV and a 1976 FJ-55. My freind @CottonPatchKid wanted the pig and I have wanted an LV for a while. Buying them together Ward offered us a multi-unit discount. So I flew out to CO and made the deal. 2 weeks later we has them shipped home to South Carolina.

This will be a two part project. Part 1 is is to get it running and drive-able and preserve the patina. Part 2 will be a nut and bolt restoration but that will be a few years from now. More to come.....

View attachment 1973523
I need more pics enjoy the hunt for parts it’s half the fun
 
Thanks to @ClemsonCruiser I leanred that this LV was for sale a few years back on MUD. 1966 FJ45 LV

I wish I could gotten it for that price. From that thread I learned the original title was lost and then re titled in 2014 as a 1966. The question I have is if it was truely a 1966 or just assumed. The frame number is FJ45LV-25180 which according to SOR is a late 1965 build. VIN plate and frame stamp both match. The carb also had 5J3 stamped on it which I understand to mean October 3, 1965. I have no idea if SOR's chart is accurate or not or if the carb is original In the end it doesn't really matter. I just want to know more about the history of it.

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This info. is from the LV guru Rick_d. Based off his info I'd say you have an early '66 as the fresh air vent is still diagonal but you have a locking gas cap door.

Identification marks and model year changes:

1963’s

- The basics: “3” precedes FJ45 on the frame, FJ35 glass, heater, 3” brow
- 3” ‘brow’ over windshield (1963-1966)
- Pop up vent on cowl (1963-64)
- Passenger side squirrel cage heaters. 2 types, one recalculating and one drawing air from passengers kick panel. (Denso part #16500-027-1 for outside air unit)
- Option of rear seat heater
- “Too wide” rear seat with short stop arms. These when folding hit the rear door handles
- Dimpled taillight lens (1963 – early 1964)
- Bottom catch vent window clamp (to ` FJ4514,300)
- Mud flaps (1963-64, and non US versions)
- FJ35 glass markings (1963 only)
- ‘breakaway’ seat rails (1963-64)
- ‘breakaway’ paddle handles (1963-64) w/ spring loaded metal packing
- Unique dome light (1963-65?)
- VIN plate on firewall w/ engine number and year stamped in (1963-64). Rebadged 1965’s were made from 1964 overstock w/ brass “T-65” tag.
- White pyramid rubber floor mats and white vinyl firewall mat (1963-64)
- Front mount sun visors (1963-1966)
- TOYOTA LAND CRUISER banner on tailgate (1963-64)
- Vacuum switch outside of firewall frame (1963-64_
- Foam door weather stripping (1963-66)
- 4 screw vent window hinge (1963-1965/6)
- Screw in headliner bows (1963 -1965/6)
- FJ25 exhaust manifold (1963 and early 1964)

1964’s

- The basics” “4” precedes FJ45 on frame, usually no stock heater, 3” brow
- Recirculating heaters (`option for 1964’s, but rarely seen)
- Correct size rear seat (FJ4514500 up)
- Short arm stops with block mounting for rear seat (FJ4514500-FJ4515100)
- Long arms for seat (FJ4515100 up)
- Map light switch appears left of headlight knob (FJ4516000 and up)
- Dealer add ons (1964 and later)
o Heater box (square unit w/ seat facing fan
o Chrome defrost knob
o Lighter w/ 2 crimps on under dash mount
o Ramsey PTO w/ ‘clown’ knob above ignition switch

1965’s

- The basics: grill on cowl vent, 40 style heating assembly, NO gas tank door, 3” brow (Specter’s/Kopito’s truck is a 1965)
- New paddle door openers w/ rubber backing (1965-1967)
- Open grill cowl vent and wiper motor change (1965-67)
- Map light disappears, hole left of headlight knob has rubber plug (1965-1967)
- Introduction of standard 40 style heater (Denso 87150-60030) and cowl fan (1965-67)
- Rear seat heater (not identical, but very similar to FJ40’s)(1965-67)
- Aluminum “T” year tags (1965-1967) (brass tags are rebadged ‘64’s)
- Black pyramid rubber floor mats and grey vinyl firewall mat (1965-1967)
- Lighter appears on dash (1965-67)

1966’s

- The basics: Grill on cowl vent, 40 style heating assembly, a gas tank door, 3” brow
- Improved seat rails (1966-67)
- Struts and straps for rear seat stabilization (1966-67)
- Move VIN to drivers fender (late 1966)
- Vacuum switch inside firewall frame (1966-67)
- 2 screw cast vent window hinge (1966-67)
- Gas tank lid and rubber cap (1966-67)
- Vented gas tank (1966-1967)
- Side in headliner bows (1966-67)

1967’s

- The basics: 1 ½” brow
- 1 ½” brow above windshield (1967 FJ4526000 +/-)
- Corner mounted sun visors (1967)
- Improved drainage for cowl vent (late 1967)
- Move VIN to passenger fender (1967)
- New weather stripping w/ plastic (steel reinforced) bead (1967)
- Improved venting for gas tank (late 1967)

Non USA Equipment:
- Right hand drive
- Split rear seat and deep extra rear seat (seats 9 short people)
- Interior window guards
- Over windshield vent and wide bolt in headliner bows
- Door pillar lights
- Ambulance doors
- Screw in door panels (all US had grey / white snap in type)
- Rear bumper options
 
Update on the LV. My current mission to get it driveable, It would not run on gas so I took the carb off and found a few gummed up jets. Cleaned everything out and order a rebuilt kit because one gasket broke when I dissembled it. Judging by the color and smell of the gas I decided to drain the tank and start with fresh gas. Anyone know where this spring goes or what it's purpose is? The rebuild kit came with a new one and is labeled as "step up rod spring". I decided to leave it off and actually runs with out it.
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I got it to crank yesterday and discovered a few things. #1 the radiator had a significant leak. #2 it runs on 2 cylinders. I drove it around the yard and it had no power. I only could get it move in low gear. I starting pulling plugs and wire off and found all were sparking. I did a compression test and found 5psi or less on those 4 cylinders but 115 to 120 on the 2 running cylinders. To me this pointed to stuck valves so I pulled the valve cover off and found 2 were stuck open and the push rods had slipped out of place. WD40 and a hammer and got them free. Now she runs on 4 and actually runs remarkably smooth. I'm thinking the other 2 have valves not seating all the way. They are moving up and down properly but the idle doesn't slow when I pull the wire off. All of this is obviously a product of sitting too long. I'm probably going to have to pull the head and get a valve job done. The engine doesn't knock or make any unusual noise so that's reassuring. I'm hoping it's in the valves not piston rings. Any sage advice at this point is welcomed.


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While my head is in the shop. I've been working on these door catches. As you can see they beyond worn out. I've built them back up with the welder then grinded them back to what I think they are supposed to look like.
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Before and after. They are not pretty but the doors will stay shut now
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I saw on youtube where someone strapped their tank to a cement mixer and put rocks inside. I used the same idea but with a old RIgid pipe threader. First lesson I learned is you can't have too many straps. I put about a gallon of pea gravel, few gallons of water and Cascade.

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I let it run for 30 minutes and then flushed it out. Then I added new water and Cascade and let it run for 30 more minutes in the opposite direction.

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Here's before and after side by side. The 2nd lesson I learned is that is extremely difficult to get all the rocks back out. This tank has baffles so I had to shake the tank until I could reach the rocks with a vacuum. It's like doing a pocket maze with a blindfolded. I still 2 or 3 rocks in there.

Here's a link to a video of it in action New video by Charles Rogers

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I got my head back last week. New exhaust valves, springs and seals. My machinist said the intake side was good and there was no need to replace anything. With the help of my old man, yesterday we put in back on and got it torqued down. My head might have more paint than all other parts of this LV combined. I still have to put my manifolds and gas tank back and I may go ahead and replace all the old rubber fuel line. Hopefully it will run on all 6 after that.


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I got my head back last week. New exhaust valves, springs and seals. My machinist said the intake side was good and there was no need to replace anything. With the help of my old man, yesterday we put in back on and got it torqued down. My head might have more paint than all other parts of this LV combined. I still have to put my manifolds and gas tank back and I may go ahead and replace all the old rubber fuel line. Hopefully it will run on all 6 after that.


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That's to much valve lash. Might need adjustment.
 
That might have something to do with the push rods not being in place. I haven't worked on this in a few weeks but my plan is to set the clearance when it's running. I need to finish replacing the fuel lines first among other things.
 

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