Just curious (as it looks like the pattern my '65 210D needs)--who is making those?
Dan
IH 1964 IH 1Ton
- Thread starter Big Ed
- Start date
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Just curious (as it looks like the pattern my '65 210D needs)--who is making those?
Dan
- Thread starter
- #102
Recessing the side marker lights. They used to get broken, unless I remembered to take them off.
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- #103
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- #104
My welder friend was over yesterday, welded up the recessed light boxes.
Put the 1/4" plate in the back, and added in the missing back gate socket.
View from the inside.
There were a bunch of cracks that got welded up.
Shortened the headache rack pieces sticking up.
Put the 1/4" plate in the back, and added in the missing back gate socket.
View from the inside.
There were a bunch of cracks that got welded up.
Shortened the headache rack pieces sticking up.
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- #105
Tree deflector.
Recess for the light.
Bracing for back gate pockets.
Recess for the light.
Bracing for back gate pockets.
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- #106
Bottom view.
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- #107
Put the bed back on to position the roller fairlead.
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- #108
I put the cab back on and shimmed it up enough to get the clearance between frame and cab that I was told on an IH forum. It took 1.33" on the drivers side, and 1.565" on the passenger side. I'm not gonna weld in that much spacer. I already took the cab back off, will remove the mounts, put the cab back on with the correct spacer between frame and cab, bolt the frame mount to the cab, then weld the mount back to the frame with a piece of angle iron on each side. That oughta do it.
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- #109
The diagnoses on the welder was completed Monday, it's the contacter and the circuit board. They wanted $550 to fix it, so he went and picked it up. He's got the circuit board ordered, and thinks he can get a used contacter free. So he will have less than half in it doing it himself. Since the welder is broken, I've been working on the cab.
Got the pedal assembly back together, this is the new one that will allow separate brake and clutch master cylinders.
Also put on the windshield wiper motor.
Got the pedal assembly back together, this is the new one that will allow separate brake and clutch master cylinders.
Also put on the windshield wiper motor.
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- #110
Rebuilt the vent doors, they were all rusty and the rubber was bad. Just ground off the staples and took them apart.
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- #111
Got a few more things on.
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- #112
Got the defroster vents on, I grouped all the little tiny fasteners so I could find stuff easier.
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- #113
The rod on the new clutch master cylinder was too long.
Someone on Binder Planet gave me the correct length, and I shortened it. Looks good now.
Someone on Binder Planet gave me the correct length, and I shortened it. Looks good now.
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- #114
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- #115
The doors don't line up right.
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- #116
The doors have holes for this.
The old cab had holes for the mating part.
The new cab doesn't, I think it's important enough to drill them.
The old cab had holes for the mating part.
The new cab doesn't, I think it's important enough to drill them.
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- #117
Welded up the cracks in the frame, also plug welded to the inside plate.
Welded the plates on.
Welded the cracks where the rear spring hangers go.
Rear shock mounts.
The bed got painted.
Welded the plates on.
Welded the cracks where the rear spring hangers go.
Rear shock mounts.
The bed got painted.
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- #118
I put a 1" spacer between the seam and the frame, with the front cab mounts removed from the frame. Bolted them to the cab with rubber in place, then welded pieces to reattach the mounts. After that I removed the cab and looked at the mounts, the area the rubber goes onto was more level, and the mount was matching up to go on top of the frame like it should. They weren't matching up at all before. Then we made this piece to tie in to the top.
Also put the box on to determine what hardware was needed. It needs to be longer now with the added plates, couldn't find the old hardware. I already went and got what I need, except for a 1/2" stud 4" long (couldn't find one).
Also put the box on to determine what hardware was needed. It needs to be longer now with the added plates, couldn't find the old hardware. I already went and got what I need, except for a 1/2" stud 4" long (couldn't find one).
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- #119
Tree deflectors.
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- #120
There's no room for this reinforcement angle, either it needs to go or the door needs to be clearanced. Since this corner came apart before, I'm leaning on clearancing the door.
