IH 1964 IH 1Ton

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I cut more out of the hole in the floor, so now I can shift the transfer case through all the gears. Found out the fan shroud doesn't fit the new radiator, will go back to the radiator shop tomorrow.
 
Big Ed, super nice work! What a beast!

If I may offer a suggestion, I did notice the three crosby clamps on your winch line. ( I hate crosby clamps )

I used companies in town that specialize in sling, cable and rigging used on cranes for heavy lifting. They will splice an eye in your winch line for cheap. I had cable slings made for work all the time. We work in right of ways and we get our big trucks stuck and would sometimes break 3/4" winch lines. I would have those guys put a eyes in both ends of the broken winch line and use the 50-100ft piece as a winch line extension, for the occasions we had to cross really wide expanses of mud.
 
oldschool4wheeling said:
Big Ed, super nice work! What a beast!

If I may offer a suggestion, I did notice the three crosby clamps on your winch line. ( I hate crosby clamps )

I used companies in town that specialize in sling, cable and rigging used on cranes for heavy lifting. They will splice an eye in your winch line for cheap. I had cable slings made for work all the time. We work in right of ways and we get our big trucks stuck and would sometimes break 3/4" winch lines. I would have those guys put a eyes in both ends of the broken winch line and use the 50-100ft piece as a winch line extension, for the occasions we had to cross really wide expanses of mud.
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Thanks. It took a lot of attention and persistence, but was worth it.

I havn't had the clamps fail, I like them because they're serviceable. The rear winch has a permanent crimped type, I have also had broken cable made like you suggest, several years ago. I've found a use for it off and on.
 
Here it is.

image.webp
 
Being a kid on the farm I always had to pull out the winch line and wrap it around some tree or another tractor. All of our winch lines had frayed ends and crosby clamps and I was always stabbing myself with them.

So I learned how to splice an eye in steel cable and I have a press and steel cable cutters, which I find very rewarding.

But like you said about the crosby clamps "they are serviceable" , and I didn't give that any thought. Im glad they are installed properly too. As I was taught when installing Crosby clamps "Never saddle a dead horse". All three of the u bolts are on the "dead end" of the cable and the "saddles" are on the "live end". Which is perfect!
upload_2015-12-2_11-11-47.webp


A hand coil of eye to eye winch cable is priceless.
Big Ed said:
Here it is.
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Got the radiator in that I had duplicated from the old one. It's not all new, they reused the lower tank.


I had to take out the upper J bolt I made to get this radiator in.


I was advised in the beginning not to get the candy cane bend type because it wasn't as strong and would straighten out over time. Now that I have to I ordered a stainless steel one, stainless is pretty tough. There's more than enough room for this one.
 
Put in the rubber pieces for the hood to rest on. Sprayed on some WD40, then used a one foot piece of broom handle to push it in. I couldn't do it with just my thumb.


I had to holesaw access to mount the mirrors. I had plastic plugs in them, but they kept popping out. Got some metal ones.
 
I shimmed the drivers side fender forward to keep the door from rubbing on it. Also figured out why the wiper motor wasn't working, wasn't getting a good ground with the new paint. However I ruined it while testing, the alligator clip lead slipped down and grounded out on the bracket. Doesn't work anymore. I've got another one I got too wet when cleaning it, I'm gonna see if it works now that it's dry. Put in the trim piece against the windshield, put in the CB speaker too. Seems like it's working, but need someone to do a radio check with. I use a speaker because the CB internal speaker doesn't work.

This is the stuff that came out from under the seat, and behind the seat over a year ago. I cleaned, sorted, and put it back in there. Also made a note of things I need to replace or get more of.


 
The data plate wouldn't fit on the edge of the door anymore, not with the clearance we did. If someone goes looking for it in its normal spot, they will still find it.


Put on the strap the passenger can use to pull himself in. I had to elongate the hole in the bottom more to get the wrench on the nut, it wasn't centered on the side hole.


I'm going to use these to support the back side of the mufflers, I had to cut off the old ones when I rebuilt that crossmember. Do you think they will hold up long enough to bother with?
 
This is my favorite truck on the internet!

I actually had one of the BudBuilt prototypes to adapt two Toyota five speed tranny's together. It was not enough wheelbase for that much drivetrain, but still pretty cool. I ended up getting rid of it after going thru two rear transmissions. Using tougher boxes like you have is probably way more reliable/
 
Mace said:
Stainless is about as strong as grade 5. Meaning, it's not strong.
Misinformation: Mild steel vs Stainless steel - MBWorld.org Forums

Bolt Depot - Selecting Fastener Materials - Steel Grades, Brass, Bronze, Stainless Steel
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Thanks for the info, I couldn't find a grade 8 J bolt. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

I was a machinist for 18 years, and stainless was one of the tougher metals to machine. We didn't do a lot of it, but it was harder on inserts, and the chips came off HOT.
 
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SKULLYOTA said:
This is my favorite truck on the internet!

I actually had one of the BudBuilt prototypes to adapt two Toyota five speed tranny's together. It was not enough wheelbase for that much drivetrain, but still pretty cool. I ended up getting rid of it after going thru two rear transmissions. Using tougher boxes like you have is probably way more reliable/
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Thanks, that's quite a statement. Toyota transmissions are loooooooong compared to what I'm using. These are pretty tough too, they were used in up to 2 ton trucks. They're also lower than Toyota, front box is 6.21, rear box is 6.32. I only have a single 2:1 transfer, and still get 375:1 crawl ratio. The boxes have been in there since 07 without problems.
 
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Big Ed said:
Thanks for the info, I couldn't find a grade 8 J bolt. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.
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I just looked again, the only grade 8 I could find were 3/8". Hmmmm. The reason I went the other way initially was so I could use a grade 8 bolt, but that doesn't fit with the proper radiator. It fit with a Scout II radiator.
 
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