1963 FJ40 FST Q's

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I had to stop working on the 40 and push it out of the way yesterday as rain is in the forecast for today. I think summer is finally over.
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I got the rear end changed out. Went with the 1978 FJ40 rear end I had, instead of the 1965 FJ45, I'd originally intended using. The FJ45 unit needed everything gone through, the other just had one seized wheel cylinder.

I decided to hit the wheels from the 45 with some fresh paint and stick them on, I like the old-school tire look. I even found a hubcap to stick on there...too bad I only have three, and one of them has a hole cut in the middle for lock-outs.

The tires are 7.00-15LT Tube Type *Premium Traction Grip*
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Had to shorten the t-case linkage that had been lengthened for the 4spd. I cut the section out, and re-welded, hopefully it holds up.

I would have gladly traded you straight across. Most of my customers are going the other way!

Wheel and cap look:cool:
 
A buddy who sold off all of his Cruiser's gave me the filter assembly and three OEM filters. Can these still be purchased through Toyota?

Sure they can.
 
I would have gladly traded you straight across. Most of my customers are going the other way!

I had the linkage from the 45, but it wouldn't work. The tub interfered with it. I looked at Destin's linkage on his thread and it's like the 45 link, fairly straight. My tub must be different than the later 40's or the mounting point's are not the same for the levers or...?


I may be interested in trading drive shafts. I've two sets of 40 shafts, 4spd length, and none the right length for the new 3spd. I know, I can just go get them built at the local drive line shop, but I'm trying to spend as little $ as possible.
 
[/QUOTE]My tub must be different than the later 40's or the mounting point's are not the same for the levers or...?


I may be interested in trading drive shafts. I've two sets of 40 shafts, 4spd length, and none the right length for the new 3spd. I know, I can just go get them built at the local drive line shop, but I'm trying to spend as little $ as possible.[/QUOTE]

Hey there! Yea, our 63FST tubs are different from all other FJ40s in many ways. I have just removed most of the linkage for my column shift (I'm saving it however) and it is a good thing you are using the later one. First, no sideshift tranny. Also a lot fewer parts in the newer versions I understand.

Special Trivia Note:

The differential plugs on our trucks seem to be unique to 63 and earlier. They are cast and are far larger than the later ones.
Good luck wrenchin'!
 
Hey there! Yea, our 63FST tubs are different from all other FJ40s in many ways. I have just removed most of the linkage for my column shift (I'm saving it however) and it is a good thing you are using the later one. First, no sideshift tranny. Also a lot fewer parts in the newer versions I understand.

Special Trivia Note:

The differential plugs on our trucks seem to be unique to 63 and earlier. They are cast and are far larger than the later ones.
Good luck wrenchin'![/QUOTE]


The special soft top tub started by with the FJ25s. The first three years of FJ40 soft tops had the same door opening. I think the really special part of the early soft top, it only cost 3K for replacement canvas for the soft top:bang:

With the 61 FJ40 you also got the side apron intake for the air cleaner, large gas cap, double sided arm rest on the rear jump seats and the same bumper as the FJ25. The best thing I'm just finding out it looks like the 61 share some of the special brake parts with the FJ25s. All of these parts are just about impossible to find.:frown::bang::crybaby:

What's the fun is using the later tranny. More of a challenge with the early. The real challenge was finding the PTO to fit the early three speed transfer case.:D

Ya we got large differential plugs. Probably the main reason I have eight sets of early axles. Just to have a spare parts source:rolleyes:
 
I cleaned up the front end that came out of my'73 FJ55 when I swapped in the disc brake axle. It's in good shape, all the wheel cylinders work and don't leak...yet. I pulled off the Warn hubs and put drive flanges on it. I still need to get some grease caps.

I actually have 4 original hubcaps but one has a hole in the center for hubs. Anyone running lockouts want to trade?
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Which Air Cleaner is Correct?

I'm wondering if the air cleaner that I currently have is the right one?

First pic is of the suspect air cleaner, second pic is of what I've seen in other early 40's and 45's.

Dan
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My oil bath air filter (in my 63) looks like the one in your vehicle. The flared intake is from a later FJ40. BTW if you need new or additional oilbath media I have a source I will happily share with you.
 
I'm wondering if the air cleaner that I currently have is the right one?

First pic is of the suspect air cleaner, second pic is of what I've seen in other early 40's and 45's.

Dan

The one you have is the correct for your early cruiser. By 64 the style had changed to the other style. I can trade you for the later style if you want:rolleyes: 68 and 69 with the earlier one barrel carburator are paper element air cleaner. These are even harder to find.
 
Cool guys, thanks. I seem to remember a wing nut holding the air cleaner on, not a hex nut. Anyone have one of those?
 
Cool guys, thanks. I seem to remember a wing nut holding the air cleaner on, not a hex nut. Anyone have one of those?

I picked up a couple of those a few years back from the a dealer. Just tell them it's for a 69. Just make sure they know it's the one for the housing not the carburator. The 69 two barrel carburator used a stud instead of a clamp.
 
Cool guys, thanks. I seem to remember a wing nut holding the air cleaner on, not a hex nut. Anyone have one of those?

Try ACE or True Value. My ACE had metric wing nuts. EDIT: Oops, wingnut on the clamp. That would be different. Course you could always tig weld up a clamp.
 
I have a bunch like the later style that holds the 2f air cleaners on. I'd have to look in my book to see if those are the same as your 63.

edit: looks like that style has a old skool style wing nut.
 
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I picked up a couple of those a few years back from the a dealer. Just tell them it's for a 69. Just make sure they know it's the one for the housing not the carburator. The 69 two barrel carburator used a stud instead of a clamp.


Picked up a wing nut from the dealer, it's the right size...does the job, but doesn't 'look' right. I think it needs to be rounder, like the big wing nut that holds the jack down.

I bled the brakes, and clutch, fired it up and drove around the neighborhood. I was able to get all the way up into 3rd, the linkage seems to work fine.

I was only able to scrounge up a front drive line, still need to find a rear.

I've some leaks to deal with, need a speedi-sleeve and new seal for the rear output.

Have to sell a few more extra parts in order to buy some more to finish this, but it's nice to be able to move it w/out pushing...

Dan
 
Got the transmission in and of course, the rear t-case output starts to leak. I did replace the seal, so it looks like I'll be ordering a speedi-sleeve.


The seal that I got form NAPA was 3mm too big on the I.D. That explains the leak. I found a rear drive line finally and figured I'd better look at that seal before I installed the drive line...glad I did. It took a while down at the NAPA to find a seal that would work. I ended up taking the book from the parts dude and found one for a 1.75 O.D. shaft that will work. The parking brake drum shaft is 45mm which is ~1.772in The seal fits tight, which is better than before.

Pumping 30 degree 90-weight with a manual pump is a PITA!
 
Now I"m attempting to fix the hole hacked in the transmission hump. I'd really like to just buy the one Aaron has for sale, but alas being unemployed makes you opt to do things the hard (cheap) way.

I sure hope this will clear the shift linkage, it looks like it'll be very close. This used to have a side-shift transmission, were the transmission humps changed to accommodate the top shift linkage?
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Early 40 Tranny cover 003.webp
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